Im looking for the most bang for my bucks. Dont really have budget, but the cheaper the better thats why im looking at ebay lipos as I image even the chinese c-rating would be more then sufficiant, but the waterbottle battery looks very nice. Also i know the controllers is not chemistry specific but i also know that lipos dont like to go below 3.2v per cell so it would be nice to have a controller with lvc.
So the stuff i read about the front fork not beeing able to handle the forces of beeing the drive wheel is not true? Thats why i havent even thought about frownt wheel drive.
And thanks for the link to the other forum, will try to read up more, this isent looking like its going to be as easy as i had hoped.
And if 42v dont kill the motor/controller i will go for 2x 5s battery as it would simplify the charging as you say.
I plan to use the motor just for assistance up hillsi would like it too be as lightweight as possible and from what i read the befang motor i linked to earlier is lighter then the q100, and more stealth in my opionion. But i cant seem to find any kits that use it.
About the brakes, this thread http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electri ... tions.html
seems to suggest i dont need to do anything to the brakes as long as i have a pedelec sensor. Anyone want to chime in?
If i understand you guys right i will need to change the gears where the pedals are too? I just assumet i would loose a gear or two on the back because the motor needed the space but that i would get away without haveing to change the front ones. I already have 9 speeds on my rear wheel, if i go for the 9 speed freewheel and the q100 it still wont be plug and play?
Finally if i cant find a kit with the befang motor and and i decide the q100 is not for me, can i get the controller,throttle and pedec sensor at the same place\manufactorer and still use any brushless motor i want? Only experience i have with brushless comes from rc and there you can do that as long as you watch the amps but they have not been sensored.
Thanks for all the answers so far they have been very useful.
And motomech very nice bike, that looks exactly like what i would like to achieve but i really want the motor in the back as i fear my front fork\suspension will break and i will faceplant like a hero.
.... but the cheaper the better thats why im looking at ebay lipos as I image even the chinese c-rating would be more then sufficiant...
I think most here would suggest staying away from Ebay Lipo. For better or worse, Hobbyking is the place for Lipo. I think all the Lipo ebiker's use is Chinese in origin and you won't find decent Lipo for less money anywhere else.
...the waterbottle battery looks very nice.
"Water Bottle" batteries seem like a good idea, but their capacity is limited, and a mini-motor on 36V is kinda slow.
....but i also know that lipos dont like to go below 3.2v per cell so it would be nice to have a controller with lvc.
The controller just needs to match the desired LVC of the Lipo pack that one is using. A programmable unit is best and the 9-FET available as an upgrade from BMS Battery has an adjustable LVC, or something like a Lynn. The LVC value is not critical, whole numbers will do. You probably would want an additional alarm anyhow.
I plan to use the motor just for assistance up hills...
Trust me, unless you are a hard core Hyper-miler, that will quickly change. You will use the motor in conjuction with pedaling most of the time. You will still be adding with your effort, you will just be going faster while doing it. This is why you want a battery with some decent capacity.
....i would like it too be as lightweight as possible and from what i read the befang motor i linked to earlier is lighter then the q100...
Bafang offers more than one model, so ID'ing a motor as a Bafang is not useful.
The MXUS, Q100 and most of the Bafangs are the same, around 3.0 Kg., besides an once or two is not going to make an much difference.
...and more stealth in my opionion.
They all look pretty much the same.
Stealth-wise, a mini-motor is not going to give you away, even on the front. It's the other items, battery and especially the wiring, that 1 in 100 people might notice.
...But i cant seem to find any kits that use it[Bafang].
The 8 For Fun kits that D8veh linked are Bafang kits. They are very low-power front mount kits that are "plug and play". For someone who desires to meet the letter of the law for the Euro-spec., not a bad way to go. One would think the wheels would be laced so that the motor/spokes would clear a standard 160 m/m disc caliper. My MXUS did, the Q100 and Bafang wheel builds...I'm not sure.
Personally, I think the Euro-spec is silly, and I would go ahead and build in more speed, ride responsibly and take my chances. A 36V battery won't do that except with a "fast wind" and "fast wind" mini-motors are not very good climbers.
From what I have read, the pedelec sensors are dumb and un-responsive devices that nobody would use if they didn't feel required to. I don't use an Ebrake on my Edge, but will install one eventually. Certainly if I up the power. I haven't tried, but I think a strong squeeze of the hyd. disc. brake would stop the motor.
... i understand you guys right i will need to change the gears where the pedals are too?
Those are called chain rings and how much of the system you need to change out depends on what freewheel you use.
I just assumet i would loose a gear or two on the back because the motor needed the space but that i would get away without haveing to change the front ones. I already have 9 speeds on my rear wheel, if i go for the 9 speed freewheel and the q100 it still wont be plug and play?
No, it's not "plug and play", you have to install a 9-speed free wheel, replacing your 9-speed cassette. But if you install an 8 or smaller-speed freewheel and still want it to index well, you will be swapping out at least the rear deraileur, chain and shifter. The front should be ok, but very few with much of a motor shift the frt. anyhow. I believe the MXUS rear would allow a 9-speed to be fitted in a 135 m/m drop-out, but nobody has tried. Care to find out?
...but i really want the motor in the back as i fear my front fork\suspension will break and i will faceplant like a hero.
I.M.O., You want to run 12S[44.4V nom.]with the controller in the 15 to 20A range. This will give a top speed in the low 20's mph and allow good assist above with your 44/11 gearing. This is key to a fun mini-motor build. Headwinds and even slight hills slow mini-motors down, so even using the motor most of time, there is plenty of opportunity for pedaling. If carefully installed, these sub 700 watt systems can be mounted in most any fork. I use one torque arm
To me, it boils down to this,
The only time that my frt. mount is even a little tricky is when I start up a hill when the pavement is wet, it will spin. Not a situation I encounter often. If you think you might be faced with this, go with the rear-mount Q100[36V "201" slow wind], otherwise, get the frt.-mount MXUS from Cell_man.
Pro and con.s of these two set-ups.
PRO-Cell_man's service and correct wheel build. His wheel on the front should be bullet-proof.
.....-ease of install, no additional parts required.
.....-reports of those who have tried two or more M.M. models, prefer the MXUS, commenting on it's quietness and responsiveness.
......Good balance with rear battery[really, only important when carrying the bike unless the battery is large].
......-Chain-drive system left intact[mostly matters for those with a decent 8 or 9-speed].
CON-slippery when wet.
PRO-Less slippery when wet.
......perhaps a bit more stealthy, but no one hardly notices a frt. mini.
CON-Additional freewheel needed.
BMS Battery wheel build questionable.
Link to two builds using Q100 and 9-speed free wheel.viewtopic.php?f=3&t=32364&start=15