
korpin wrote:saw this on some computer looked like it was designed around stealth type bike
korpin wrote:will the controller control two motors?...and also the CA???
oh and whose ass was that by seats?.....are there any girls on this board?.....

duncanjerry wrote:Hello all!!! I was just curious to see how many miles other stealth riders have put on there bombers or fighters. I'll go first, I'm at 2000miles in about eight months.
Ps I'm bomber #36

Hyena wrote:korpin wrote:saw this on some computer looked like it was designed around stealth type bike
How do you arrive at that conclusion ? Are you looking for an excuse to post in this thread ?? ANSWER:....IT APPEARS TO BE TWO MOTOR STEALTH BOMBER DRIVE TRAIN...EXTRA MOTOR ADDEDHMMM THOUGHT MAYBE THATS HOW THEY DID TWO WHEEL DRIVEkorpin wrote:will the controller control two motors?...and also the CA???
NoTHE TWO ASSES BY BIKE SEAT IN MEMBERS PROFILE PHOTO....PERHAPS THEY WERE TRANSEXUALS?oh and whose ass was that by seats?.....are there any girls on this board?.....
What ARE you talking about ?
Try adultmatchmaker.com


korpin wrote:HOPE THIS revision makes sense I told him he was wrong he re did it....hmmm I have seen a two hub bicycle though

QMS wrote:Here is few pics of micro switch controlled re-gen brake setup!

GrayKard wrote:QMS wrote:Here is few pics of micro switch controlled re-gen brake setup!
I ride my e-bike in the rain a lot and was using one micro switch for regen and one for cruise. They aren't very waterproof as they both acted up in the first storm. Second storm the regen one gave out and I had to switch it for the cruise (while stopped under an overpass out of the rain). I stopped using them soon after.
I switched to brake levers with built in regen switch (not an option with hydraulic brakes). And a throttle with built in button for cruise. Haven't had them on long enough to know how they will hold up to the elements though.
Gary (not a Stealth owner)




Paul_G wrote:Is there a Bomber owner here thats handy with metal that could make me a battery box for a 2nd battery? My aluminum rack does not last more than 500 miles with an extra 25 lb battery on it. On long trips I run both in parallel.
I was thinking maybe it could mount on the seat post but be below the seat on an angle to get the weight lower as well but it would need to clear the wheels travel. If it cant be made that way a steel stronger rack would do.
I'll "try" to draw a picture
If interested please contact me name your price...I'm not looking for cheap....thanks





You're better off changing the Aux thresholdCowardlyduck wrote:Discovered a cool trick the other day

full-throttle wrote:You're better off changing the Aux thresholdCowardlyduck wrote:Discovered a cool trick the other dayLeave the Amp limit alone


full-throttle wrote:You're better off changing the Aux thresholdCowardlyduck wrote:Discovered a cool trick the other dayLeave the Amp limit alone

Cowardlyduck wrote:Discovered a cool trick the other day...thought I would share.
I got my power limit wires on the CA set to 250W at the factory. I've since installed a switch to control this, posted previously in this thread.
I discovered that the power limit was only 250W when the CA max amps was set to 60. If I set the CA to 47 max amps it would limit it to 200W when the power limit button is pressed, which I find useful for very slow conservative cruising for long distance.
Therefore, I assumed the power limit in the CA must only be a percentage of the max amps set. So the other day I tried setting the CA to max amps of 85. This gave me roughly 360W with the power limit button pressed.![]()
The battery BMS does the job of limiting the Max amps draw to 60 still. I also tried 99amps and this gives me roughly 420W.
This is HEAPS useful for long distance off road riding. as I can use it in limited mode (at 420W) most of the time, then flick to full power when I need to get up a hill.![]()
I would love to get a 3 or 4 mode switch eventually so I can easily flick between power modes, but that's a long way off at this stage as I have other priorities in terms of modding the bike for now.
Anyway, just thought id share.![]()
Cheers

You could use a sealed micro switchGrayKard wrote:QMS wrote:Here is few pics of micro switch controlled re-gen brake setup!
I ride my e-bike in the rain a lot and was using one micro switch for regen and one for cruise. They aren't very waterproof as they both acted up in the first storm. Second storm the regen one gave out and I had to switch it for the cruise (while stopped under an overpass out of the rain). I stopped using them soon after.






Hyena wrote:I have a seperate button on mine that I activate with my thumb, I actually mainly just use it and the front brakes when slowing down and the back brake largely for skidding! It seems to lock up very easy with the knobbies

Cowardlyduck wrote:Hyena wrote:I have a seperate button on mine that I activate with my thumb, I actually mainly just use it and the front brakes when slowing down and the back brake largely for skidding! It seems to lock up very easy with the knobbies
Yeah, I do the same. I think that button comes standard on new Stealth's now. I really like it, as it allows you to control everything independently.
Cheers





Hyena wrote:Got a picture QMS ? I have a seperate motorcycle switch cluster on mine. The button I use is normally the horn.




QMS wrote:Paul_G wrote:Is there a Bomber owner here thats handy with metal that could make me a battery box for a 2nd battery? My aluminum rack does not last more than 500 miles with an extra 25 lb battery on it. On long trips I run both in parallel.
I was thinking maybe it could mount on the seat post but be below the seat on an angle to get the weight lower as well but it would need to clear the wheels travel. If it cant be made that way a steel stronger rack would do.
I'll "try" to draw a picture
If interested please contact me name your price...I'm not looking for cheap....thanks
Hi Paul G. Was looking at your diagram! Definitely doable , the weight on the seat post and clearing the rear wheel travel concerns me a little though. was thinking a steel cornered frame with aluminium side panels with some cut outs for ventilation. Might be able to clear the wheel travel by elongating the enclosure a little. I am able to bolt this assembly together only as i dont have a welder yet! but if i was doing this for myself i would bolt it anyway. If you could supply battery dimensions (H W D) of TWO preferred configerations i will try to come up a design, this will include room for padding seat clamp and wiring exit port. cheers Linc.

Paul_G wrote:QMS wrote:Paul_G wrote:Is there a Bomber owner here thats handy with metal that could make me a battery box for a 2nd battery? My aluminum rack does not last more than 500 miles with an extra 25 lb battery on it. On long trips I run both in parallel.
I was thinking maybe it could mount on the seat post but be below the seat on an angle to get the weight lower as well but it would need to clear the wheels travel. If it cant be made that way a steel stronger rack would do.
I'll "try" to draw a picture
If interested please contact me name your price...I'm not looking for cheap....thanks
Hi Paul G. Was looking at your diagram! Definitely doable , the weight on the seat post and clearing the rear wheel travel concerns me a little though. was thinking a steel cornered frame with aluminium side panels with some cut outs for ventilation. Might be able to clear the wheel travel by elongating the enclosure a little. I am able to bolt this assembly together only as i dont have a welder yet! but if i was doing this for myself i would bolt it anyway. If you could supply battery dimensions (H W D) of TWO preferred configerations i will try to come up a design, this will include room for padding seat clamp and wiring exit port. cheers Linc.
Thanks for the offer but I want a Bomber owner as they will need to make sure it clears the wheel travel and I would want it welded steel. Also Bomber battery's don't need cooling holes as that run cool.
Paul G




Paul_G wrote:Thanks for the offer but I want a Bomber owner as they will need to make sure it clears the wheel travel and I would want it welded steel. Also Bomber battery's don't need cooling holes as that run cool.
Paul G

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