The *Genesis* is only the begining...

crossbreak said:
Crossbreak, Did you post this in the wrong thread? Build what myself? You couldn't have known I had a change of plan to make the swingarm myself. What are these?

I meant the chain tensioners, do you build them yourself? i see that in your design it's possible to move the rear axle, that's not sufficient without support (even not for most pedal bikes, if you pedal hard). The picture I posted would be a great tensioner (or tension-keeper). If you just tighten the nuts of you rear axle without additional support, it will start to move when you pull the throttle and the chain tension will be lost, then your backwheel stuck on the frame or the chain may crack.

You also need a tensioner for the chain from the motor to the jackshaft. I can't see any in your design. Maybe you should consider to make the motor mount screws also relocatable in by slots like you did with your rear axle. You won't need a tension-keeper for this chain because chain pull will be much weaker.

Hi crossbreak,

Ah, yes. I will have to look into chain tensioners for the rear axle! Something I knew I probably needed but haven't done the research on yet. :roll:

For the motor I am going to do up a simple angle aluminum bracket and I do plan to make the motor mounting bolt holes long so the motor can be moved to provide correct chain tension here.

Also, I'm hoping I can get away with no springy type chain slack tentioners for the main 1st and 2nd gear drive chains by selecting sprocket size ratios for each side that will yield an equal length/distance for both sides from the jackshaft to the rear axle. That way I can just use rear axle chain tensioners like the ones you posted, but I think I will look for the screw adjustable types.

Enough about me...I now shine the spotlight on Thuds work! :shock: :twisted:

...Excerpt from Thuds email that included these pics. No need to try and explain it any different than Thud has...

Hey J,

Here is what Ive done tonight:
opend up the 4 #25 drive sprockets to 12mm.

cut the taper out of the 21t #35 to accept the lovejoy thingamajiig.
I cut a small relief on the dogs of the clutch acting lovejoy & discoverd that these are actually cast iron.
this means they machine very easy....but are kinda weak for absorbing impact...your cush drive will be required i suspect.
Also welding the lovejoy to the steel spocket is also out of the question. I will braze the lovejoy onto the steel #35. should be fine IMHO.

Next I started modding the slipper clutch....started by thining down the bushing so the friction pads can seat firmly on the sprocket....& what to my supprize??? its made of cast iron also LOL...(absolutly fine in this application...loaded with graphite dendrals) then I opend up the driven #25 to 1.625 to fit the slipper. walk in the park.

Things left to do:
bush down the slipper to fit the 5/8" shaft.
broach your freewheels to slip onto a free-hub
braze the lovejoy into the #35
cut a couple lengths of shaft for you.


2ujjq60.jpg


206ejno.jpg


6fyxdk.jpg


72poad.jpg


34p01lj.jpg


211mkat.jpg


23vkbxl.jpg


20uwiac.jpg


10oh6ko.jpg


2rm7b11.jpg


Super AWESOME Thud! You now have an excess of good karma!!! In fact, if there were such a thing as a karma bank...Thud would be a billionair!!! :D :mrgreen:

Hey, would anyone like to weld up this swingarm for me? :?: :) How much?

Later,
Jay
 
Just a quick update.

I've got a quote for having the swingarm welded up. I was told $65-$85. Does that sound reasonable to you guys?

Here are some pics of it before it goes off for welding.


Here you can see I shaved these solid bars of 6061-T6 down to fit inside of the main rails for some reenforcement. I will have the swingarm welded up without these installed so that they do not change temper at all during the welding process. I will insert them afterwords and they will be held in place by friction and the rear axle bolt.
155qwwo.jpg



Here you can see it all marked up for the welder to do his job. I just guessed at how to do this, he just told me "forget drawings..just mark it up" (?!) You can also see the huge chunk of alu I will use for the motor mounting plate. I'm thinking it is wide enough that it will stand up on it's own with 2 or 3 huge bolts drilled and tapped into its' bottom edge, and I can cut a bunch of groves into it to make it an effective heatsink and lighten it up.
20j44uu.jpg



Here's a bunch of stuff that will go towards the electrical system. I've got my work cut out for me, and this doesn't even include the electric shifter and the full custom LED lighting I've got planed.
m3rc7.jpg


One last pic...Look at Lily! I did not put here up there! :shock: She is still less than 1yr old. That was scary to find her up on the table! She climbed from that purple powerwheels thing next to the table, but that's a huge gap to traverse and the table is slippery. Crazy girl! :mrgreen:
ajy17c.jpg


Later,
Jay
 
I've got a quote for having the swingarm welded up. I was told $65-$85. Does that sound reasonable to you guys?
I payed the same for welding an exhaust aluminium pipe with only three welds here in Germany.
Sounds reasonable for me. Remember, the welder has to clean everything etc. That takes its time
Your swing arm really looks stiff. I hope it wont weight a ton. Looks a little to wide.
BTW what are the braking levers made for? you should really use hydraulics! I didn't mean you should use this crab when I said you shouldn't bother with brakes...

Your child looks like she wants to become a true mountain beater :D
 
crossbreak said:
I've got a quote for having the swingarm welded up. I was told $65-$85. Does that sound reasonable to you guys?
I payed the same for welding an exhaust aluminum pipe with only three welds here in Germany.
Sounds reasonable for me. Remember, the welder has to clean everything etc. That takes its time
Your swing arm really looks stiff. I hope it wont weight a ton. Looks a little to wide.
BTW what are the braking levers made for? you should really use hydraulics! I didn't mean you should use this crab when I said you shouldn't bother with brakes...

Your child looks like she wants to become a true mountain beater :D

Yea, I thought it was a good price for the welding. :)

I just weighed it all up and the swingarm with the extra support bars weighs 4lbs-14oz total. The motor mount plate weighs 3lbs-8oz, but that should be cut down to less than half that once it is all cut up to the correct size and finned for heat dissipation. So ~6.5-7lbs when it's all done? Plus the wheel, jackshaft w/gears and torque limiter, and motor...maybe 15lbs on the rear when done? What are your thoughts on this?

I had to add 12mm to the left side of the swingarm to make room for the disk brake/caliper, and the #35 chain and its' sprocket, upon the advice of Thud. So that makes a total of 147mm at the axle inside the swingarm. Each side of the swingarm is 19mm thick so..147+19+19= 185mm wide total. I will use this 220mm bolt as an axle: http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=11114435 What do you think?

I am kind of stuck with the mech brakes...I figured, at the time, that I had to go with mech brakes in order to use the switching brake levers from Lyen. Since then I have come across a thread on here that showed someone using magnetic reed switches with hydro brakes to accomplish the same thing. Doh!

How bad is it that I'll use mech disk brakes? I 'am' using 203mm brake rotors with 20" tires. It looks like I've got a lot of braking advantage...over say a 165mm rotor on a 26" rim, ya know?! I'd like your opinion. ;)

Yes, Lily's favorite thing seems to be climbing now! She wasn't happy in her play area until I put that powerwheels in there, which she loves to climb all over like it's a jungle gym. It keeps her busy and I happy about that! :D I will have her on a bike as soon as possible!!! :mrgreen:

Later,
Jay
 
I also use a mech brake on the rear tire to use the switching brake handle for safety. Thats ok 'case the rear wheel will block anyway even with a mech disk brake. The mech disk brake can dissipate as much heat as a hydro of the same disk size.

The front wheel can take much more braking load so a hydro brake has a big advantage, cause it bites harder.

mopeds often use hydro disks on the front an mech drum brakes on the rear wheel.
 
crossbreak said:
I also use a mech brake on the rear tire to use the switching brake handle for safety. Thats ok 'case the rear wheel will block anyway even with a mech disk brake. The mech disk brake can dissipate as much heat as a hydro of the same disk size.

The front wheel can take much more braking load so a hydro brake has a big advantage, cause it bites harder.

mopeds often use hydro disks on the front an mech drum brakes on the rear wheel.

You meant "The mech disk brake CAN'T dissipate as much heat as a hydro of the same disk size." correct?

If what I have doesn't hold up then I will be forced to change it for something better, ie hydros. Thanks man. ;)


I would like to start rewinding my 80-100 and I need some help. I would like to land somewhere in the 110-120kv range.

But I have a question that I have done a ton of looking for in threads here but I still have one nagging question; If I am using regen, do I NEED to wind it with Wye termination? My concern stems from people saying that hall timing changes for motor direction with a delta wind motor, but Wye hall timing is neutral. I can't figure out if this is true only for controlling the motor in one direction or another, or if this extends to the motor being used in two modes= run and regen?

Thanks,
Jay
 
You meant "The mech disk brake CAN'T dissipate as much heat as a hydro of the same disk size." correct?
No. The dissipation of heat grows linearly with the size of the disk. It does not matter if you use a mech or hydro type. The hydro brake just bites harder with less lever engagement.

If the timings are neutral it does not matter if you power or regen. Same in STAR and WYE as far as I know. I didnt use regen yet, cause it makes only makes sense on very steep hills.

I would recommend a lower KV for more torque and less speed because of noise. I ran mine with 130KV and 37Volts and it was loud as hell. I go for 36Volt 100amp with 75KV STAR now, also because of the hall issue. I just love to ride my 500Watts tongxin middrive cause it's noiseless (friction planetary drive holds up yet).

How do you pedal on your bike? I see no pedals so I gues you don't.

Your concept has really inspired me :D I plan my fourth bike now with 3-speed gearhub as gearbox build into the frame and no pedals at all (I see that pedals suck, they cause more complexity and weight) . I bought a relatively cheap used centurion frame for it, got it today:
c2w51ilymbfa6vwr2.jpg
 
CB; I'll reply later 2day, I've got to run to the bank to make sure I don't go under because; ;)

The 4s1p hardcase packs are in stock at HK: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15521__Turnigy_5000mAh_4S1P_14_8v_20C_hardcase_pack.html :!: Just a heads up :!:



...And look what Thud did! :shock: :twisted:

4pxbg7.jpg


34fk852.jpg


9hth89.jpg


4jq2o9.jpg


bezy8y.jpg


23j33x0.jpg


Thank you Thud! I ask Thud if he might be able to get all this stuff done for me before mine and Lily's birthday 4/20 and 4/21 so I could have my ebike, in what ever state it is in, at the family picnic we will have on sat the 21st to celebrate our Bdays, and what do you know?! ...about 1-1/2 days later I get an email saying it's all done! Man I wish I was as great a guy as Thud is! 8)

TTYL,
Jay
 
Cool stuff man! Thud will come through and overnight that shit if you need it. You can also be certain all those bolts are 1/4-20", huh Thud? :lol: :wink:
 
Bahhh hahahah! I WIN!!!! those are ALL 6x1mm metrics my good etard man!
(I bought metric last time i re-stocked...was working on bunch stuff for guys on the continent, just seemed the right thing to do.)
G-man, your box should be there tomorrow!
 
Yeay! Yea, this is so cool and thud is my new luv! Hehehehehe

And de swingarm should be all welded up too! Kevin the welder said all he has left to do is attach the pivot tube! (Proper name??)

Tomorrow is gonna be a big day! I hope I can at least make it a ridable bike for the day at the park!

From my phone, later,
Jay
 
Quick update.

I broke my collar bone into 3 pieces ~2 weeks ago. Now have a plate and screws in my shoulder... :roll:


I've begun my rewind (1-1/2 handed :p ). The start came out good, but I can tell that I can't get double 6turns of 13awg wire on there for a full rewind...sooooo close, but no go. I just got 14awg wire in today so I will be starting over and do a double 14awg 6turn wye wind.
20gdsa9.jpg


v3k1ls.jpg



Here is my latest sketchup with what I think will be the final lipo layout on my build.
2ujidud.jpg


For charging I'm using:

Meanwell clones for $40 each: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=switching+power+supply+24v (Change the voltage in the search for what you need)

and..

Fechter's Mini Meanwell Limiter V.3: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=36958&hilit=16s+charge

I'm using a 36v and a 27v with fetcher's board on it. ;)

The total cost comes to ~$110.00 for a 700+ watt user adjustable charger! :D

For ~$80 more you could double the power to ~1400w by adding 2 more (series) power supplies in parrallel.

Fetchers board can also take a 5v-g signal from things like the cell log-8 to stop charging if any cell goes over ~4.22v: http://epbuddy.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=30_8&zenid=ant5q8tlh3sv5blaqnbnbpv2a7 (They also have all the plugs and cables you could ask for. Hint: check under the "connectors tab for some hidden balance leads, the 8s ones I needed anyway.)


And here are some pics of how it looks now running with only first grear, my old stock 130kv 80-100 motor, a 190-200amp super simple ESC on 6s, with a servo speed regulator and a Multi function watt meter w/ the screen on a ribbon cable and mounted to the dash:
dq6lvk.jpg


z682d.jpg


28b5kqq.jpg


15fnous.jpg


j94qqs.jpg


169kuj6.jpg


a2gkgp.jpg


2vkeyjd.jpg



Here is a closeup of my thumb throttle I modded into a finger throttle, I like it! :D
e03gv5.jpg



It is UN-STOPABLE even on only 6s on hills so steep the rear wheel slips or the bike wheelies up! :twisted: Though my top speed is only ~7mph..but that was enough to brake my collar bone onto 3 peices... :roll: :)

Later,
Jay
 
your seatpost frightens me...

it's... super simple

also the length of your bottom bracket shaft... even if it's just...super fail?

your swing arm and trnasmission btw, is looking good... will you have any gear to shift while pedaling?

injury is a thing to learn...just like your child does ( i hope she is fine btw..)
 
Sweet! I'm only surprised by one thing- it looks like you're using XT60s, I thought they were only good for 60amps? I suppose you're probably not running remotely 60 amps continuously- is that why they work? [i.e, are 80-100amp bursts ok on the XT60s?]
 
1st, Props for getting that bike shot-guned together for the party....that had to be a blur of throw together....

Now, speaking as a motocrosser who has never broken a collar bone....ouch.
prolly a cool scare at least :twisted:
 
Ok... I thought this would be more dangerous. I don't want to blame anyone or be a fun killer, but this still frightens me. :oops:

It wouldn't be too hard to get another bar between the BB an the tail of the seat post I guess.

My XT60 plugs only get slightly warm at 100amps if you only run it for less than a minute. But I can't tell how they behave in daily use cause I only run them at 60 amps normally.
 
crossbreak said:
your seatpost frightens me...

it's... super simple

also the length of your bottom bracket shaft... even if it's just...super fail?

your swing arm and trnasmission btw, is looking good... will you have any gear to shift while pedaling?

The seat is an exercise in prototyping, just temp to see how I like it and till I get the whole custom seat/body/frame alu made up! ;)

I do have the steel seat post in there upside down so it's.. kinda secure.

I had the regular bike seat on it when I crashed! This is SO much better in the limited riding I've done with it.

The BB is a cartridge type with sealed bearings. Seems stronger than stock to hold up to the forces.. if that your concern?

Thanks! I might be able to change gears while peddling, but probably not right away. I will have to buy the FW adapter ring, FW and a chain ring or two from SBP that are supposed to go with it. There is a keyway in the spindle for the adapter. All these parts come with their 4-stroke kit to deal with the wider engine. I will grind off the chain ring mounts on the right side crank arm so they won't be a hazard.




Kin said:
Sweet! I'm only surprised by one thing- it looks like you're using XT60s, I thought they were only good for 60amps? I suppose you're probably not running remotely 60 amps continuously- is that why they work? [i.e, are 80-100amp bursts ok on the XT60s?]

8) Yeah, the XT60's held up with bursts of 140Amps! I'd repeatedly see 100+Amps while go up and down an ~30 foot embankment by the railroad tracks so steep that if I'm not kissing the handle bars the bike would flip out from under me..or the wheel would spin! I'd say it's 35-45 degrees. And the XT60's were A-OK!


Thud said:
1st, Props for getting that bike shot-gunned together for the party....that had to be a blur of throw together....

Now, speaking as a motocrosser who has never broken a collar bone....ouch.
prolly a cool scare at least :twisted:

Thanks Thud bud, I had that stuff laying around so...I just threw it all together all dirty like! It was fun to see what it would do on such a basic setup!

But that's retired now! We're taking a break (pun?!) for now and getting back into shape for our next adventure!

Take a look: :D

Motor! 80-100 Double 14AWG 6-Turn Zig-Zag DLRK Wye wind @ 100kv tested, +halls! Thread I used for the zig-zag rewind on page 3 to 4: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=736580&page=3

262sm87.jpg


Looks to me like plenty of room for air to flow! I'll be sucking the air out of this side via a centrifugal impeller I stole from a 120vac handheld vacuum. I'll box this in and the impeller will mount to the end of the motors shaft just outside this "box".
w7bqrm.jpg


voramo.jpg



Along with Thuds advice from an email:

"If your terminating in wye, its simple. I just place a hall between the teeth that are a phase pair. jere is a diagram:
A(hall)a b B C(hall) c a A B(hall)b c C that is a straight up DLRK wind"


...I read advice from all over the forum to help me with the halls, but this is the thread that was the most concise and really helped me to get them all done with confidence: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=3484#p81888
34t1gfc.jpg


rlco5j.jpg


Batt box for 6 on each side...though it will be redone to hold 7 on each side and 2 in the middle for a total of 16 packs in this "main tank". Then a box for the 4 or 8 extra will be attached from the bottom for an extra "long distance tank".
33djb06.jpg


1zoyo3b.jpg


Prepping the motor for the rewind with a little filing and some shrink tube:
3508j21.jpg


15x4843.jpg



Hot off the presses: :twisted:
33vjgwh.jpg


149cqad.jpg


Later,
Jay
 
The seat is an exercise in prototyping, just temp to see how I like it and till I get the whole custom seat/body/frame alu made up!
I do have the steel seat post in there upside down so it's.. kinda secure.
I had the regular bike seat on it when I crashed! This is SO much better in the limited riding I've done with it.
The BB is a cartridge type with sealed bearings. Seems stronger than stock to hold up to the forces.. if that your concern?

The bearings are fine. The strength of the BB shaft is my concern. The bending load rise exponentially (3rd degree) with shaft length. I am not sure it holds up if you do jumps with your bike. If it's a hardened shaft, it could break any time you don't anticipate it (due spreading micro cracks you can't see). Sadly I dont' have a better solution in mind yet. Till this is solved/verified you should not do jumps to much.
Nice to see that you already have ideas for reinforcing your seat post. I'm looking forward for your build. These racing saddle's came along when searching for a good seat post:
http://www.tribug.com/ism-adamo-racing-bike-saddle-p-132.html

The rewind job looks excellent. Thanks for this great documentation.
(I blew the main trace of my 12 FET controller with 3077 FETs today, series resistance seem to low for this controller)
If I am tired of messing around with delta wiring on my 6374 outrunner, I'll definitely give it a try.
Which halls do you use?
 
crossbreak said:
The bearings are fine. The strength of the BB shaft is my concern. The bending load rise exponentially (3rd degree) with shaft length. I am not sure it holds up if you do jumps with your bike. If it's a hardened shaft, it could break any time you don't anticipate it (due spreading micro cracks you can't see). Sadly I don't' have a better solution in mind yet. Till this is solved/verified you should not do jumps to much.
Nice to see that you already have ideas for reinforcing your seat post. I'm looking forward for your build. These racing saddle's came along when searching for a good seat post:
http://www.tribug.com/ism-adamo-racing-bike-saddle-p-132.html

The rewind job looks excellent. Thanks for this great documentation.
(I blew the main trace of my 12 FET controller with 3077 FETs today, series resistance seem to low for this controller)
If I am tired of messing around with delta wiring on my 6374 outrunner, I'll definitely give it a try.
Which halls do you use?

Hmmm, that is concerning that the load rises to the 3rd * with length! :| The cranks are 145mm, and I'm thinking of having them shortened even more..like down to 50mm or so, as they are annoying, in the way on off road trails like when they hit the dirt when I'm in a wheel rut made by other riders (quad trails) and at the top of hills. Dangerous IMO. I'm still injured and not practiced enough to take jumps with confidence at this point in time. The bike will evolve with me, if you know what I mean. :)

Yea, the seat is nice like this. I like the fact that I can change my seating position over a great area just by sliding my butt like a real dirt bike. I will be making a custom body/shell with integrated seat that should come out looking and functioning pretty good. I hope!

Thanks! The rewind took me several days as I was still pretty fragile from my injury. Using a wooden handle from a drywall pallet really helped to hold the wire so I could pull on it with good force.

Sorry to hear you blew your controller trace. Is that all that blew? did you get it back up and running? I've beefed up mine pretty good, I'll take pics next time I open it up to do things like the shunt mod for on the fly variable regen and current limit. So far I've added on top of the stock stuff..10AWG input and output wires, 12AWG solid copper (house wire) on the power traces, and an extra .005 ohm shunt. I've also added a heat sink to the side where the FETs are, though I don't think it needed it..as the controller STAYS COMPLETELY COLD! I can't believe it myself, but it doesn't warm up at all...! Crazy.

Here's some pics. Yes, that is the additional 10awg phase wires coming directly off the bottom traces and out of the bottom of the controller. They then meet up with the stock 14awg phase wires and are soldered to 4awg phase wires to the motor through 8mm bullets! Hehe :twisted:

28miir9.jpg


r2n58i.jpg


mm4d1l.jpg



The motor on the other hand gets HOT at any RPM or current level (!?!), or got hot that is, until I got a cooling system on it. I'm pretty excited about this because it does such a good job and moves soooooooo much air through the motor, and anyone should be able to replicate it if they can find similar parts. So what is it you say?

I ditched the idea for the small impeller taken from a 120Vac handheld vacuum and decided to try an impeller from an industrial blower! This one is 4.2" in OD and has ~1.5mm clearance in its' ID for the magnet bell of the motor. I did have to take it ALL apart and reassemble it inside-out or backwards though, which was a PITA! But I did it so that the mount and fins worked best for the app. In this way the mount plate side is as close to the motor as possible but still has a contour to it that gives the air some extra room to come out of the end of the bell (awesome IMO), and the fins now work to pull air out of the motor "best" for the direction of rotation it spins. I will be adding a "tube" to the back of it to cover the skirt end of the bell that has holes in it to allow air in and a filter to keep dirt and rocks out. I will be redoing my motor mount (again) as well to eliminate air passing through it from the chain area, and to increase the aluminum at the base so more heat can flow to/through the mount.

Before I added any cooling, I was always trying to use as little current as possible, or spike the current up to 75amps for as little time as possible due to the motor ALWAYS being HOT and I was afraid to over heat it. I was a little disappointed to be honest. But now, I can start out in second gear, slam full throttle pulling 75amps, reach top speed, stop, repeat over and over, and the motor stays touch-ably cool! Now I'm HAPPY with that! :twisted:

Edit: Oh, and for some reason, having this around the motor has reduced my no load current a whole Amp...from 6.5A to 5.5A! I don't know why, but I'm happy about it!

Check it out: It sounds sweet to boot! Whhheerrrr
ipa3ah.jpg


111qus3.jpg


2ztc6mf.jpg


1g0mee.jpg


2lk2n2w.jpg


Hey Thud, here is how I added the rubber portion of the love-joy coupler to give cush to the second gear clutch mech, it's working out great! :D I cut it up to get the shapes you see 3 of here for a press fit, and then just superglued them in place. I acutually ended up using one thicker brass thrust bushing here, instead of the 2 thinner ones in the pics.

jja45s.jpg


2e0reah.jpg


Top speed so far, I'm happy with this! :twisted:

34xrfax.jpg



I have a few problems:

* I wonder if anyone else has encountered this before. If you look in the motor w/blower pics you'll see I'm using my OLD magnet bell with the new motor core. That's because my NEW magnet bell has been nothing but trouble due to it resonating like a bitch at a certain RPM, I'd guess at ~ half throttle or 3000rpm. It is vibrating like a crystal glass does when you wet your finger and run it around the rim, or like how a singer can break a wine glass with their voice. Under my fluorescent lights looking at the skirt of the bell when it's vibrating, you can seen the bell taking on a polygonal, probably 12 or 14 sided shape!!! On the bench I've tried everything, from reinstalling the skirt bearing retainer...to cutting off the portion of the bell that secures the skirt bearing retainer, to cutting off all the extra material below the magnets. Nothing helped at all! Also, the resonating was MUCH worse under load when I took it out for a test ride, making it MUCH louder and even extending the RPM in which continued to resonate..ie; it would be resonating so severely that it would continue to resonate even when out of (higher than) the RPM range that it resonated unloaded. In fact it wouldn't stop resonating unless I let off the throttle/dropped the load. In each of the 3 cases that I took the motor out for a short test spin with this "new" magnet bell...it threw magnets! Yep, the resonating was so severe it cracked the epoxy between the magnets AND even the plating off the back side of the magnets so they came loose. One of the mags is now cracked in half and I don't know if I can ever use this magnet bell. I'd like to as you can tell it is stronger than the OLD one that's on it now. Anyone have a clue as to what could be done?

* Where the hell can one download the software (parameter designer) for these controllers!?! I'm a little pissed this controller cost nearly $400 with all the extras I got with it...and NO DOCUMENTATION OR SOFTWARE. I know, if I bought it I should know and/or be willing to go and find it myself, but I've tried with no luck. Either links are broken or descriptions are short and incomplete/cryptic for those who "were there", ya know?! :? :wink: What about this "XPD"? In any case I have not been able to get anything installed or working. This portion of ebike'ing is very frustrating because of this.

* My CA reads a constant negative amp at idle, what to do about this?

* Acceleration is a bit jerky too, like da-da-da-da-da-da-da until my speed reaches the throttle position. Is this the current limit over shooting and dropping back down ~2x per second? That's my hypotheses. Is there something like a setting in programing that can help this? Has anyone else observed this?

* Also, I would prefer a current based throttle. I think it would be so much more controllable and efficient. Anyone done this mod successfully?

Thanks and TTYL,
Jay
 
GI,
That flux can has to have a defect in it somewhere....sounds like its WAY out of ballance or a magnet is installed incorrectly creating some funk.

As for parameter designer....I have been using the XPD software with great results.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=27927
Warning: do not use speed setting over 99% with a high rpm rc motor.....trust Burtie, your fets will thank you.

as for throttle, you can tune the responce with the CA's settings...Methods had a good thread on doing that (somewhere :oops: ) & some great info on zeroing out the shunt values for accurate calibration.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=31548

2nd post down.

ah here it is:
https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=37964&hilit=bionx+board&start=255
 
Looks sweet man! I like your fan, makes the motor more manly, not that it really needs that with the very nice rewind you did! So you healed pretty fast hey? I know this feeling, "I am in pain but I want to get riding again!" :roll:
 
Nice to see your progress. Your wiring looks durable. Don't be canny with cable ties ;)

Under my fluorescent lights looking at the skirt of the bell when it's vibrating, you can seen the bell taking on a polygonal, probably 12 or 14 sided shape

My 80-100 does the same at about 2800rpm. Maybe not as much.

what you observe is a shift of the resonance frequency if you install the skirt bearing. The free wave length of your rotor is divided by two. I'm too tired atm to calc by which factor the frequancy increases.The whole rotors bearing is way stiffer so the resonance frequencies rises from a save low frequency to a hazardous higher one. Sounds strange, but things in rotor dynamics are a bit strange sometimes.

The only thing that helps is balancing the rotor. I don't think there is a magnet glued wrong as Thud mentioned as possible reason, but that should not be too hard to find out.

Nice top speed btw, you really should get well soon ;)
 
You got some fairly good progress. I managed to do nothing on my bike the past few weeks.

At some point, my 24 FET controller might get finished, and I would consider the bike 'done'. I'd love to see what an RC bike like this can do up close.
 
I'm glad your fan experiment worked well.

Its possible that your bell resonance problem might be helped by adding JB-Weld, DP-420, or some other type of epoxy between the magnets (http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=27270). From reading (no personal experience) I have been given the impression that there is significant side-to-side force applied to the magnets (along with some push-pull), and adding epoxy between them will lock them in shoulder-to-shoulder.
 
J,
I have re-built a LOT of these 80mm motors for myself & guys on the forum....the resonace your experiancing is a symptom of a bigger problem. you may have a phase shorted to the stator or something....the only time Ive had a funky resonance like you describe was with a short on a phase, a bad hall sequence, or some really off timing & a controller that still spun it some how.

look closly & proceed with caution....no need to blow a controller from a small issue.

The green inuslation on the stators is weak & its very easy to "pull a short" winding with 14g wire...need to get some nomex for 100% durability. its an easy continuity test with your multi meter.

keep us posted, hows the clavical?
 
Back
Top