Schwinn Spoiler---Now with 1200w Cyclone Motor

[RallySTX]

Mwkeefer, you might want to ask JRH at Holmes Hobbies to source you a wide rim. I have a factory wheel but I'm not very interested in selling nit. It is off the Spoiler, and has the disk brake rotor holes. The rotor is on another wheel now. I have another wheel off a OCC that is silver. It is silver, and is bent up enough that it can't be used with rim brakes any more, but still has a single freewheel, and nondisk hub. I took the tube, tire, and rim strip off for my other bike. I have a complete OCC bike for sale in original shape. But again, the hub is nondisk brake type, but the rim is much straighter. That bike can go for $100 plus shipping. Trouble is, that charge will make it a two hundred dollar bike. I have pics of the bike, and can get them for the rims if needed.

http://www.choppersus.com/store/product ... -4-Silver/
http://www.holmesbikes.com/
Brian L.

[TopCat]

Hi guy's,

I got a new motor last week. I had to settle on a 36v 1000watt motor like 500watter I had. I ended up getting this motor as I haven't had any replies from Superkids about there BMC 1500W super scooter motor.
Having now got the new motor I need a new controller. I searched all over EBay and the only 36V 1000watt controller I could find was a -

YIYUM YK43.


Looking at the wiring (only 3 main wires) im assuming that the RED postive wire is shared by the batts and the motor like so...

Taken from TNC Scooters. Wiring diagram. http://www.tncscooters.com/YK42-3.php


Notes.
1. The Motor and Battery connectors on the YK42-3 controller share a common positive (RED) wire. The positive lead of the controller is attached to the positive lead of the battery and the positive lead of the motor.
2. When connecting the controller to the battery a small spark may occur this is normal.
3. Make your battery connection your last connection.
4. Controller uses standard Hall Effect (3 - Wire) throttle.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The thing is! I need my motor to run in reverse. WOULD swapping the GREEN and RED wires from the controller to the motor work or would doing this harm the controller in anyway?

Regards
Tom

[liveforphysics]

Swapping red and green should do it, IF the motor is the type of brushed motor that will be happy spinning backwards (which it likely is).

[REdiculous]

I'd check so I'd know for sure. My brushes were advanced pretty far in the wrong direction and it only took a couple minutes to pop it open and rotate the brushes and brush holders.....I'm using a different motor though.

[TopCat]

SMOKING HEATING UP MOTOR???

What am I doing wrong?


I wired up my new controller and lifted up the back of my bike and turned the throttle to test it, it ran ok.
I then hauled my chopper outside and got it ready for a trip down town. I set off pretty steady along the street path and when I got to the main road I opened up the throttle, I got about 10/15 yards and there was a puff of white smoke from my makeshift battery box? I took the bike back home and opened up the batt box, thinking I'd blown my new controller? It turned out that the tape I had put on the + & - wires of the motor had melted?

The next day I taped on some thicker wire 12awg (the wire was used basicly as an extension as the motor wires were to short) and set off once again. This time I took the bike a spin around the block to test out the motor/controller etc. Well I went a distance of about 100 yards around the block and when I parked the bike up at the house the motor was smoking? I then decided to make the same trip into town as I did the day before. I only got about 10 or so more yards than previous trip when the throttle stopped responding? I took the bike back home and opened up the batt box. More melted wires?

Over the next couple of days I put the new 36V 1000w controller on my push trailer with my old 36v 500w motor and use it with my mountian bike, it pushed me along fine until the chain slipped and twisted the motor on its mounting.... bugger.

Today I thought I'd redo the controller wiring with bullit connectors rather than tape. I took the motor off my bike to solider bullit connectors onto the wires, I then ran into my first problem? The new pack of 4mm bullit connectors I got doesn't fit my old 4mm connectors??? Shit!!.

Word of warning. Dont buy 4mm bullit connectors from different suppliers as they may not fit with the one's you already have

After redoing all my wiring with new 4mm connectors I wired up the motor/controller/throttle on my kitchen worktop. I turned the throttle to test everything was working ok. The motor ran for about 20/30 seconds before it started smoking? I tried it a few times and each time the motor started smoking after a short spin up? the motor was also starting to get warm to the touch. I then though i'd reverse the motor wires so the the motor would run in its normal direction. I ran the motor this way a couple of times but it still started smoking after 20/30 seconds of run time?

Im now at a loss as to why the motor is smoking and heating up? If its smoking and heating up sitting on my worktop theres no point putting it all back on my bike as it wouldn't last 2 minutes before something melted or went pop.

This is the setup....

MOTOR.
Electric E scooter 36 volt 1000 watt Motor chain drive.

Ebay.... Item number: 230718290357

CONTROLLER.
Electric E Scooter Bike Motor Controller 36V 1000W YC43.

Ebay.... Item number: 170355174371

WIRING OF MOTOR/CONTROLLER.
Controller Black wire to Battery Power negative.
Controller Red wire to Motor and battery positive.
Controller Blue wire to Motor negative.

Anyone any ideas as to why the motor is smoking/heating up without any load on it?

Regards
Tom

[RallySTX]

Ona workbench with no load, it should only heat up if there's already internal damage to the bearings, or if there's a problem electrically. Take a DMM and check the wires from the controller for proper signal, and the motor wires for proper resistance. Spin the motor by hand to check for resistance, and slop in the shaft. In retrospect tape is the last thing I would use to make a connection with on a exposed vehicle harness. Me thinks it was the high resistance in those taped up connections that may have caused the controller or motor to fail. Always use connectors designed above the power levels you will be using. Good to hear from you. You should post more often.
Brian L.

[TopCat]

Ona workbench with no load, it should only heat up if there's already internal damage to the bearings, or if there's a problem electrically. Take a DMM and check the wires from the controller for proper signal, and the motor wires for proper resistance. Spin the motor by hand to check for resistance, and slop in the shaft.
Brian L.

DMM/Wires/Signal/Resistance .....youv'e lost me?

In retrospect tape is the last thing I would use to make a connection with on a exposed vehicle harness. Me thinks it was the high resistance in those taped up connections that may have caused the controller or motor to fail. Always use connectors designed above the power levels you will be using.

I ran my old 500w motor with wires (extensions) taped up for months until I went any distance (about 7 mile without peddling) and burnt it out. The 500w motor still works but not as good as it did when new.

Good to hear from you. You should post more often.

I would post more often if I had anything to post about but as you see anything electric bike related blows up in my face.
Im now starting to get pissed off with it all as anything I buy seems to end up as a waste of money

Regards
Tom

[RallySTX]

Yeah Tom, a DMM is a digital volt/ohm meter, or digital multi meter. What I was driving at was to check the controller to see what it actually is doing when you power it up. The volts it's sending to the motor, and such. Well you know the hobby, if it can go wrong it usually will, in the most spectacular way, and at the worst time. I don't want you to quit, but if you do, I would be interested in your batteries, and the bike. Hope you figure things out, and can post your successful story here.
Brian L.

[farmkid4]

LoL i have a 32' PC Monitor and i cant see mor than the rear wheel of the pic ....

I seen plenty of those schwins with motors on them, sit down and read through some of the stickies you will soon be up to speed...

Welcome to ES...

KiM

I 32 foot monitor!!! where in the world did you get it!!

Great looking build!

[amberwolf]

Something is heavily loading that motor down; my first guess is the gearing is still too tall, or else something is causing drag on the motor or chain or wheel.

If it is heating up the wires enough to smoke tape on it, that's pretty damned hot! It's pulling way way too much current, and that happens generally because of too high a load at too slow a (motor) speed.

If the motor is allowed to spin really fast while driving the wheel at a slower speed, it's still usually ok, but hwen the motor is dragged down to a slow speed trying to keep the wheel speed up, it causes the mtoro to draw lots of current which heats it up pretty quick, and after a while that can cause unhappy things.

To let the motor spin fast while the wheel spins slow, you usually have to have small gears on the motor and large ones on the wheel. IF that makes the wheel speed too slow even at full throttle, you'd either need higher total voltage, or you'd need a multispeed transmission for the motor-to-wheel. Even just a two-speed can be enough, in such a situation, with the right ratios.

[TopCat]

Something is heavily loading that motor down; my first guess is the gearing is still too tall, or else something is causing drag on the motor or chain or wheel.

If it is heating up the wires enough to smoke tape on it, that's pretty damned hot! It's pulling way way too much current, and that happens generally because of too high a load at too slow a (motor) speed.

If the motor is allowed to spin really fast while driving the wheel at a slower speed, it's still usually ok, but hwen the motor is dragged down to a slow speed trying to keep the wheel speed up, it causes the mtoro to draw lots of current which heats it up pretty quick, and after a while that can cause unhappy things.

To let the motor spin fast while the wheel spins slow, you usually have to have small gears on the motor and large ones on the wheel. IF that makes the wheel speed too slow even at full throttle, you'd either need higher total voltage, or you'd need a multispeed transmission for the motor-to-wheel. Even just a two-speed can be enough, in such a situation, with the right ratios.

I think you missed a bit in your reading of my post Amberwolf?

Im now at a loss as to why the motor is smoking and heating up? If its smoking and heating up sitting on my worktop theres no point putting it all back on my bike as it wouldn't last 2 minutes before something melted or went pop.

What I mean by sitting on my worktop .... The motor/Controller/throttle etc isn't attached to my bike its all sitting on my kitchen worktop ......and smoking.

I tested the Controller with my meter. I removed the motor connections and put the meter pins into the connections, I then turned the throttle and got a reading of 39.odd volts. I then reconnected the motor leads and turned the throttle, the motor span up for about 20 seconds then stopped?

Looks like I am once again on the lookout for a new motor. My 36v 500w motor at least had a good few miles on it before it stopped working correctly but this new 3 week old 36v 1000w motor only done 2000 yards and a few bench test spin ups before it smoked its self into an early grave.

Im now wondering what size/type motor can I next waste my money on

Regards
Tom

[amberwolf]

I think you missed a bit in your reading of my post Amberwolf?

No, I got the part about it now smoking and heating up even on the "bench", but unless I totally misunderstood, you'd said that the problem started while riding on the bike--so I suspect it's now damaged from overheating (shorted windings, possibly, from insulation burned away while smoking during operation on the bike).

I don't know for certain what's wrong now or what caused the failure--it's just speculation based on my own often-failed experiments.

It is possible the gearing is all correct but that somethign is causing friction or dragging on the wheel or motor shaft or chain or something, but typically you'll feel that when just rolling the bike or doing off-ground tests spinning the setup by hand without batteries attached.

It is also possible (but unlikely) that it has "advanced timing" on the brushes, meaning the holder has been rotated to help improve operation at speed in one direction. This can cause high currents when operating in the other direction.

Typically when I got hot motors, I was pulling too much power from them, usually because my gearing was wrong, because I did not understand anything about motors really when I started my quest to motorize my bikes. It is why I wanted (and eventually got) a wattmeter, so I could monitor realtime power usage off the battery, as well as peak power and whatnot. It helps a lot when troubleshooting problems. Having a speedometer and odometer also helps, since I coudl then translate that into Wh/mile to figure out relative efficiency of setups.

Anyway, even just a voltmeter and ammeter kept attached to teh bike where you can see them when you ride will help; I did that, first, before the wattmeter, but I melted at least one ammeter because the current draw was higher than rated for and the shunt came unsoldered.

I've found in some experiments with gearing various motors that I would have been putting tens or even hundreds of times the power thru the motor than it was rated to take. Momentarily, that isnt' always an issue. But sustained, like when cruising, a motor is probably not going to be able to handle that kind of over-powering without some pretty radical cooling setup.

That's why it's really nice to have a wattmeter and keep track of power usages for various setups at various speeds and bike weight loads and terrain, because once you know a few of them, you can extrapolate what it will take for others.

I tested the Controller with my meter. I removed the motor connections and put the meter pins into the connections, I then turned the throttle and got a reading of 39.odd volts. I then reconnected the motor leads and turned the throttle, the motor span up for about 20 seconds then stopped?

If the controller was able to vary the voltage output and/or the speed of the motor then the controller was working and doing it's job. I'm pretty sure the problem is that your motor is being forced to do too much work at too slow a speed for it, so the current thru it is too high and it overheats.


Before you decide on a new motor, I think you're going to want to figure out the gearing of the bike vs the speed the motor is designed for. Meaning:
--determine what speed your wheel is going to turn at at the speed you want to cruise at.
--use that to determine what speed the sprocket on the wheel then spins at.
--use that and the ratio between that sprocket and the one you want on the motor to determine what speed the motor sprocket spins at.
--use that to determine what speed the motor will have to spin at to make that all happen.

Then pick a motor that has a rated loaded speed not very far above that, at most, at the voltage you want to run your system at. That motor will also have to be capable of continously running at the power level (watts) your setup takes to travel at your cruising speed. If you haven't measured that, you'll have to calculate it, which can involve some guesswork.


You can also just pick a motor that handles the power you need, at the voltage your system runs at, and then recalculate your gearing to match that motor's rated loaded speed at that voltage, so you end up with the right cruising speed.

[amberwolf]

A little PMing with TopCat, reposted here with permission to hopefully also help others help him out, along with my own thoughts:

Would this be a suitable motor for a bike?


EBAY
Item number: 110805717852

It could be, if it's speed when loaded at the voltage your bike runs on matches the gearing of your bike.

But it doesn't list it's "kV", which is how many RPMs it spins per volt put across it. It also doesn't list it's RPM at it's rated voltage, either loaded or unloaded, either. So we don't know what speed it spins at, meaning you might have to totally regear your bike for whatever it's actual loaded speed turns out to be when hooked up to your batteries/controller.

If you can get that information from the seller (assuming they're willing to do tests, because it isn't on the motor labelling), it would help to figure out in advance if it will work or not.

You might also check with powerchair repair places around town, and see if any of them have used motors they're about to chuck. Just about every such place I've seen or heard of does that regularly, because the gearboxes or other parts attached to the motors wear out, and they usually come only as a single-unit replacement part from the vendor. So the motor gets scrapped even when it's still good.

That's how I started out powering CrazyBike2, but I had to keep regearing it for different motors I tried, to get the right bike speeds based on the motor's actual loaded output speed.

I dont know anything about KV or how RPM's relate to motors or gear ratios or jackshafts etc.
I just bought my 36v 500w motor for my trailer after I saw on a website that a trailer with a motor attached could be made to push your bike along. I decicde to go the push traler route as I didn't want to go hacking up/welding a brand new hybred mountian bike that I had just bought. I just bought a chain and sprocket to match the motor cog and slapped it all together. A few months after I had made the push trailer I saw a Schwinn Spoiler Chopper on ebay and when I saw that big gap in front of the rear wheel I thought that would be an ideal bike to put a motor on.

About that motor.
I sent the guy a question asking if the motor wouldbe suitable for a bike. I then sent you the message asking about it. I have since looked at his feedback and saw that someone had bought one of these motors, so I have asked them if they have tested it etc. Still waiting on a reply from both questions.

On the ebay site is the photo I sent you and this little bit of info about the motor.....

New Old Stock USA Made electric motor by Boehm Mfg. Very good quality made motor with replaceable brushes and heavy painted cast aluminum body. Set up quite well with good length shaft (w/ hole) and front face threaded mounting holes. Applications include: boat trolling motor, fan motor, small vehicle motor and various other "Project type" uses. Operates on 12v - 36vdc.

Specs:

Overall Length: 6.75in Diameter: 3.5in

Shaft Length: 1.375 in

Shaft diam: .Round, .375 in (bottom half of shaft) and .25in diameter top half which also has a small hole thru shaft for a pin.

Rotation: Reversible

Horsepower: .18hp

Input Voltage: 12vdc to 36vdc

Amps: 5a at 36vdc, 4.4a at 30vdc, 3.5amp at 24vdc and 1.75amp at 12 volt dc.

Weight: approx: 6lb
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

As to what speed I'd like to cruise around at It would probably be about 30mph. Thats where I run into the problem of not knowing about ratios (even thought ive looked at a good few gear calculators, I cant make head nor tale of them) to know what type/size motor will make a bike with a 24" X 2.10 front wheel and a 20" X 4.25 back wheel travel along nicely?

While browsing Ebay I came across this BIG motor...

Mars ME0201013001 Brushless DC motor, 100 cont amps 24-48v DC


Info...
Slightly Used (<10 hours) MARS ME0201013001 Brushless DC Motor.

NOTES:
This motors fan cover is missing.
The connector on the wire from the motor has been cut off
Slight score marks to the shaft.

Other than the above it is a happy running bargain! It was removed from an electric go-kart project hence the above issues.

Designed for long life. No brush maintenance. The motor is 90% efficient at voltages between 24 to 48 VDC. Continuous current of 100 amps at 48 VDC. This is a 3-phase, Y-connected Permanent Magnet Syncronous Motor with an axial air gap.
20 turns per phase Line to Line resistance of 0.013 ohms Motor weight of 22 pounds.

I might go for this, im sure this would definetly power me along
I'd need to get some sort of controller to go with it?

[amberwolf]

Regarding the first motor, unless you can find out it's k/V (rpm/volt) or it's rated RPM at it's rated voltage, there's no way to know for sure what speed it is going to run at, and thus to know if it's suitable for your project (or what to calculate the gearing to be).


Regarding the second motor, it would probably do pretty much anything you want. But it will also be pretty heavy, and will require a brushless controller to run it--preferably a hefty one, which will not be all that cheap (Lyen sells some that will probably let you run it very hard; ask Evoforce about the big one he's got on his bike with an X5303 (I think it is).

You'd need to figure out the gearing ratio for it though, just like with any other motor you want to use on there. I'm not always great with math, so I may make serious mistakes in calculations (or even the formulas needed to do them with!), so someone else is gonna need to check my conclusions. I recommend you check them yourself, too, before you actually change anything or buy parts.

We've gone thru ratios you might use on there before:
viewtopic.php?p=399775#p399775
dealt with the ratios on your original motor, but later on
viewtopic.php?p=438122#p438122
you ended up going back to that same ratio and it didn't help, which confuses me.

Gtadmin did some calculations:
viewtopic.php?p=438435#p438435
and then some subsequent discussion leads up to a possible conclusion that you'd have to gear it way down to keep from melting it, and just accept a lower speed out of it.

No gearing/calculation has been discussed in any detail on your newer motor (which also smoked).

One thing I may have missed but didn't see, is what kind of terrain you're riding on. If it is hilly, and not flat, then it's going to take significantly more power to go up the hills than to run on the flats or go down the hills.

Plus, the faster you go the more air resistance, especially once you get up past 15-20MPH; it starts making definite increases in the amount of power you use to get to and stay at a speed, even on the flats in no wind, and motors get hotter.



What I would do is use the previous calculations to determine your gear ratio, if you know the rated loaded RPM of your motor at the voltage you'll be running it at. If you're not sure how to do that calculation, someone cna help with that, but we do need to know the motor's specs to figure out what it should be driven at to get you the speed you want without cooking it. There's no detail on the ebay auction, so no help there.

I thought I saw a reference to a wattmeter in one of your battery posts. If you can use the wattmeter to determine your power usage with the mtoor itself, whiel riding, it would help tremendously in figuring out what setup you actually need.


I think the Mars motor is way overkill, though it would almost certainly do what you want with room for more. If you're willing to do some DIY, you can get a powerchair brushed or brushless motor that will do quite a lot of work, for probably very little or even nothing, if you can make friends with your local powerchair repair places, and show them your project you want to use it on. I'd bet that at least one person there would love to see some of the motors they just throw away turned into something useful. (you can look thru my CrazyBike2 early build thread and http://electricle.blogspot.com blog for some of what I've already done with such motors, and then at my Powerchair Motor thread for info on the latest stuff I'm working out with a brushless one).


You could even use a hubmotor as a middrive; several people on ES have made them that go thru the gears of the bike or just a single-ratio leftside drive like you've been doing, and they've worked out fine, even on hills.

[TopCat]

Here we go again guys, back with a new motor and controller.

MOTOR: 1200w Cyclone.
CONTROLLER: 12 FET 3077 MOSFET Extreme Modder Controller LYEN Edition.

After a few problems trying out various Controller/Throttle combinations I managed to bench test the motor and get it up and running.

Next thing is Sprockets?
I'll have to jackshaft the motor as I dont want to risk running it direct to the rear wheel and burn it out like I did my last two motors
I need help figuring out the sprockets to drive the rear wheel from the lefthand side. The smallest sprocket I can get away with on the rear wheel (LH side) is a minimoto 54T 8mm pitch or something equivalent so that it doesn't interfere with my disc rotor/caliper.

The motor already comes with a 14T freewheel on it but I could change this out and have the freewheel somewere on the jackshaft?

So the the setup would be...

Motor Sprocket or 14T freewheel.........To.........Jackshaft sprocket?........RH Side.
Jackshaft Sprocket?.........................To.........Minimoto 54T 8mm pitch sprocket or something equivalent.

I'd like to run around 30mph if possible.

Any of you mathematical sprocket boffins out there know what sprockets I'd need to get?

Regards
Tom

[TopCat]

ITS ALIVE

After a chat with flyinmonkie/Clay he figured that my cyclone motor would run at around 580rpm on 36v. With that info and a neat little gear calculator program, recently posted by E-racer...

Tzi's Ratio Calculator V 1.7.2
http://scooters.tziworld.com/progs/ratiocalc172.zip
Cheers E-Racer

I did a few calc's. I thought of jack shafting the motor but the speed wasn't there with the batts I have. I had a 26T minimoto sprocket bored out - with keyway, the guy also done me a couple of locking collars to hold the sprocket in place.
Last night after a few headaches trying to figure out the correct phase wire combo to get my motor to run in reverse I finally got a combination that worked

Today In between the snow falls I managed to get my motor/controller fitted up to my chopper. I then took it out for its initial test run.
Im running a 26T minimoto 8mm pitch sprocket on the motor and a 54T minimoto sprocket bolted onto the rear wheel disc rotor holes. My rear tyre is 20" X 4.5, and im runnig at 36v. The Tzi's Ratio Calculator gives me a rated speed of 16.62mph but I think its more somewhere around 12/15mph. When I set of I wasn't thrown back in the seat, more of a firm push.

calc.jpg (38.74 KiB) Viewed 371 times

TEST RUN.
I headed out to show the turner guy (who bored out my sprocket). His unit is about 1 1/2 mile away. He was quite pleased that i'd finally got everything up and running.
I then took a spin into town then down to a mate of mine. Had a coffee and a chat then I headed back home. On the way home I had a slight problem! the chain kept slipping off but I eventually made it home.

chopper.jpg (74.63 KiB) Viewed 371 times

Once home I made up a chain tensioner out of an old castor wheel and took it for another spin around the block, this time everything was ok.

chain tensioner

chainten.jpg (82.22 KiB) Viewed 371 times

I still have the odd teething problem(s) to sort out - nothing major I hope. I'll do a few more test runs before I strip down and shorten all my meter long cables.

I also got another back rest. When I saw it I thought it was black, and when it arrived and I started to open up the parcle I saw gold piping. Whoopeee I thought, this will match up with my black and gold coloured bike. Then when it was finally open I found it was blue with gold piping The photo they shown must have been a black n white one

backrest1.jpg (65.24 KiB) Viewed 371 times

In the discription they said that it was a lambretta back rest with a piece added to the top.

this back rest has been alterd it has a piece joined to it under the cover theres two spots of white paint on the bk of the cover

When I removed the padded cover I saw what they ment with a a piece added to the top It wasnt welded on as I thought it would have been, it was a triangular section of cromb tube ZIP TIED to the main part of the back rest. Zip tied, well I never
Im going to get my mate to cut it and weld it up. I dont know if that plastic type padding can be dyed/stained black? If not I may get a new pad made up.
It took a bit of fiddling around but the I found a simple method of securing it to the bike via a couple of car exhaust brackets.

backrest2.jpg (64.38 KiB) Viewed 371 times

Still a lot of stuff to do to the bike but i'll do a few more test runs first (providing the snow holds off) to make sure everthings running ok. Im thinking of upping my batts to 48v. This should get me a little more speed.

Regards
Tom

[flyinmonkie]

Nice Job Tom. If you didn't get the programming cable from lyen, get it. A little changing of the settings turns the motor from a diesel with lots of torque but no acceleration to a tire tearing beast. It doesn't take that much either. My controller runs stone cold and my motor only gets warm tot he touch (when it is running, ha ha).

Clay

[RallySTX]

My motor and controllers are stone cold, mainly cause I haven't finished it yet. Glad to see it works again Tom! Crossing fingers and toes for ya!
Brian L.

[TopCat]

Over the weekend I tried a 44T sprocket on the motor, along with the 54 on the wheel. I went for a test run. The bike was a bit slow at getting up to speed but once it got there it was pretty fast. Problem is the motor was warm, it cooled down pretty quick but Im not chancing it, i'll go back to the 26T motor sprocket. This weekend I may try the 44T on the rear wheel and see how it goes.
I also ordered a couple of new batts 6S. I'll buy more once funds allow.

Regards
Tom

[RallySTX]

Good job Tom, you'll get er done yet!
Brian L.

[TopCat]

My new lipos arrived - 2, 6s packs, I'll get more once funds allow. I charged them up and took the bike a spin around to one of my mates. Wow now running at 48v this thing can fairly shift for a heavy bike. I had my mate Peter weld up my back rest. I then had a run into town to get some spade connectors (doing a bit of wiring alterations) then back home.
I now cant wait to get more lipos for longer range......wheeeeeee

Regards
Tom

[RallySTX]

WAY TO GO TOM!!! I was hoping you could resolve those issues. I'm very happy for your success, and wish you many happy miles ahead.
Brian L.