First Build with my own three hands

[greenmountainprimate]

A little background first:
I bought a used Worksman Pleasure Cruiser (Now called a Port-O-Trike) after I had two bikes stolen on two separate occasions in a single week. My rationalization was that it would be an annoying bike to steal because of it being bulky, slow, and a bit unusual. I rode it for two seasons with much enjoyment before I decided to make the big electric plunge.

I ordered a kit from Hightekbikes and a battery from Ping. Soon after this I realized most of my tools that I keep in a locked tool box in my van were gone. At some point I must have left the box and the van unlocked. Once I got over the loss of more of my stuff, I got enthused about trying to do this with as few tools and as little material as possible the best way I could. I'm not particularly mechanically inclined when it comes to bikes and figured I'd pick up quite a bit in this adventure.

Started with:
One Old Worksman 3-speed Port-O-Trike with a front drum brake

Before

trike1.jpg (151.2 KiB) Viewed 508 times

Tools used:
1 adjustable wrench
1 Leatherman Multi-tool
A mostly useless drill
A completely useless hacksaw

Materials Bought:
750 watt Aotema electric hub mounted to a 20" wheel (hightekbikes)
48v 20AH Controller
48v 15AH LiFePO4 Battery (Ping)
1 Torque arm
6 1/4x2" bolts
4 1/4" nuts and washers
4 1/4" wingnuts
2 1/4" Rubber washers
4 1/4" Lockwashers
A bunch of zipties
Black electrical tape

Materials reused and recycled:
First Aid Kit tackle box
18x18" Lozier shelf (salvaged from a grocery store shelving unit)
Plastic Pencil Box
Side Pull Caliper Front Brake

Today was the first day I rode it to work. It's still a work in progress but completely functional. It tops out at 22 MPH on flat road with no pedaling assistance. (I don't have a working speedometer yet, but I was able to get a speed from the Radar Speed sign outside the hospital.) I don't need to ever go that fast but it is nice to be able move with traffic if I need to. I tend not to go faster than I would pedal anyway. The brakes work well enough but aren't truly adequate for quick stops at higher speeds. Keywords in reference to braking: Plan ahead.

After

trike2.jpg (192.56 KiB) Viewed 508 times

Future Plans:
I need to stabilize the shelf for the basket and the toolbox a bit better. This will be easier with a proper drill. (It was a gift.) I had to use old holes for the basket because the drill would not pierce the cross frame of the bike before the next leap year. I'm a patient guy, but 9.6V drills should be illegal. The bit binds even when drilling through plastic. I've a good mind to use the battery to power a radio or lights or something.

I need to find a better control box cover than a plastic pencil box. It keeps the rain out but it's a little flimsy and a little silly.

I picked up a Cycle Analyst from GeorgeInVT. The speed sensor got ripped off while I was moving it around. I hope to repair it before I mount it on the trike. I'm not really sure how to go about it.

The spark that happens when I hook the battery up to the controller always surprises me even though I expect it. I bought a 65v 30AH Blue Sea Systems circuit breaker from West Marine. It should serve as a decent switch... I think. It won't trip until the circuit hits 40AH which should never happen with what I'm using. I had a hard time finding a switch that could handle the voltage.

I hope to construct a large lockable box for cargo to replace the basket and battery box. I guess i'll have to buy some tools for this project.

It's good to be a part of the electric bike revolution.

Any suggestions or comments would be most welcome.
Thanks.

[ddk]

didn't the controller come with an off/on switch?
My 23A controller from terry@hightekbikes did
If that's true, all you need to do is turn the controller "off" before connecting the battery. No Sparklies.
I added a 30A (automotive) switch on my battery, which is fine because you AREN'T switching over 30A when the motor's not moving LOL.
But I only use the battery switch when I remember (once in a while) but I always use the controller's off/on switch

[ohzee]

I like it looks good - plenty of room to carry things in the back.

Looks like it's heavy duty and that seat looks comfy.

Sorry to hear about things being stolen - nothing makes me more sad then how people will treat others they do not know.

Keep us updated with your progress.

[greenmountainprimate]

I get sparks whether it's on or off. (Is this bad?) I would rather have a slick low profile 12v switch but I am under the impression overvoltage can cause underrated circuits to fry. Granted it might only fry the switch, but could do so at the worst time. Maybe I'm just over complicating the issue and over preparing because it would never happen. Either way an overrated switch shouldn't matter too much. It takes up no space.

[ddk]

I get sparks whether it's on or off. (Is this bad?)

probably not

I would rather have a slick low profile 12v switch but I am under the impression overvoltage can cause underrated circuits to fry. Granted it might only fry the switch, but could do so at the worst time. Maybe I'm just over complicating the issue and over preparing because it would never happen. Either way an overrated switch shouldn't matter too much. It takes up no space.

I believe that with a regular e-bike setup, such as yours, there is little danger in frying a 30A@12V switch.
I've been using 30A automotive switches for this purpose for over 5 years on several different e-bikes. No issues, No problems. (all under or at 48V...things get More Wacky with above 48V and Really Really Wacky above 300V)

why it works ok:
Switches are rated by how much current and Voltage they can switch "off"; as switching "on" a circuit load isn't that hard to do. When switching "on" a load a small amount of plasma is generated that is rarely high enough to weld or damage contacts. Unless the switch is WILDLY under-rated for your application as in... don't expect a 1A switch to work with a 30A circuit.
Not to get too technical (ya, right!) but when pulling the switch contacts away from each other under a load (an electrical load requires Voltage times Amperage, or what's known as Watts), LOTS more plasma (arcing) is generated. If the plasma is strong and long enough it can and will weld the contacts together, which can be "a bad thing" (Martha Stewart's evil twin speaking) ) But it's also a guud thing because that's how arc welders work
If there is no load to speak of, an under-rated switch with a sufficiently large enough contact area that can handle the (expected) load, can be used IF it's NOT switched while the load is present (i e the trike is under power)
-When the motor is stopped there isn't much of a load to speak of.
or otherwise this is also known as:
YMMV
(Your Mileage May Vary)

If you're not comfortable doing/using something someone sez on the iNterWEbbIes for whatever reasons you have, (LOL Expurts sez so) it's always best to Not Do It
-keep the myths alive-

[stripedtuna]

Awesome trike.. I love it...

The spark that happens when I hook the battery up to the controller always surprises me even though I expect it.

I have read that the spark can ruin battery connections over time and also up the risk of controller damage. Not sure from experience though, as my cell_man battery came with a precharge resistor circuit built in, which charges the controller capacitors first before i connect the main +ve. Anyway, I just found this thread with a quick search, that might help explain how to make your own precharge circuit, thus removing your big spark.. If that doesn't help, research pre charge circuits, as i think there is a fair bit about that topic on this forum..

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37213&hilit=precharge+ohm#p541098

Hope that helps mate..

Cheers,

Ed.

[dogman]

Just keep it plugged in, and turn the bike on and off with the switch on the controller. If you have to take the battery in, to prevent theft and to charge, then anderson connectors can be used to replace the bullets when they eventually go bad. Andersons have the ability to take the spark on the tip, then slide in and make final contact on clean metal.

[Drunkskunk]

Looks like a good bike. Rust drives thieves away.


Precharge resistor will eliminate the spark, if you care enough about it. It can erode the connector eventualy, but in 5 years it's never been a problem for me.

Don't use the on/off switch on the controller if you can help it. Its not on the battery side of the circuit, and there is still some power draw. 0.01 amps draw doesn't seem like much, but it works out to about a half a watt an hour at 48 volts. Enough to perminatly kill a lithium battery if it has to sit a few weeks.

[greenmountainprimate]

Looks like a good bike. Rust drives thieves away.

That's my hope. I considered replacing the rusty fenders and handlebars, but the rust (patina) adds character.

I took apart the speed sensor on the Cycle Analyst. It seems to be just a housing for the wires which were held in by glue. Surprisingly simple. Do the wires need to be reintegrated into the housing a particular way, or can they just be stuffed in there and reglued?

cass1.jpg (89.68 KiB) Viewed 355 times

I like the idea of a battery interrupt switch or a precharge circuit . This way, I can seal up the controller to be watertight and use the interrupt as a power switch... that is unless there is a compelling reason to do otherwise..

[ddk]

keep the rust...
the ugli-er somethings looks the less likely it will be stolen or vandalized. (experienced, yes. I Am)

about tools...

my suggestions:
1. corded 3/8" variable-speed cheapest Blank and Decker or Skil drill made*... and an extension cord!
-used as much as you're likely to use them they should only last 20-30 years or so.
+good carbide or titanium coated drill bits. I find on metal work for bike/trikes I mainly use an 1/8" bit followed by a step-bit (multi-sized drill bits in 1/8" 'steps') ymmv
+screwdriver bits...#1, #2 Phillips and a couple sizes of flat blades are a good beginning- also handy in yer described battery-powered drill (all it's really good for, apparently)
2. a grinder, such as the least expensive Harbor Freight offering + metal grinding wheels and cutting disks
...that's about all you need for metal work but you might also find a saber saw and a belt sander handy along with their blades and belts.
3. Wrenches - A cheap set of SAE and metric wenches will set you back all of 20 bucks- lasts forever...Sockets and drivers if you "feel the need" Again the least expensive 6-point socket set will last forever- and get a drill adapter for the sockets.
4. hammer......... bigger IS better LOL
5. I personally like multi-bit screwdrivers but I suppose your leatherman is a suitable sub. I just happen to hate leathermans, their copys and the rest of the swissknive-like tools.
6. Hex wenches I like the multi-hex wenches. Get the metric-sized and maybe eventually an SAE (which you'll likely never use on a bike or trike

with these tools you can build/fix anything mechanical including bikes. build a house, whatever- just add raw materials as needed.
total cost ~$200 smacksers

*Battery drills have come and gone from my life but my 30-year old Black and Decker and 25-year old Skil drills drill on and on and on

and lol with a 20A controller and a 48V battery you don't really need a pre-charge resistor setup. A switch works and is mindlessly easier to use... but that's up to you
If you already bought the whoopee-doopee circuit breaker I suggest you use that since you already own it.
I use a CB for one of my batteries because I have already had it -makes a good switch (why buy another switch HAHAha ohh)

[its_me_jason]

I get sparks whether it's on or off. (Is this bad?)

probably not

I would rather have a slick low profile 12v switch but I am under the impression overvoltage can cause underrated circuits to fry. Granted it might only fry the switch, but could do so at the worst time. Maybe I'm just over complicating the issue and over preparing because it would never happen. Either way an overrated switch shouldn't matter too much. It takes up no space.

I believe that with a regular e-bike setup, such as yours, there is little danger in frying a 30A@12V switch.
I've been using 30A automotive switches for this purpose for over 5 years on several different e-bikes. No issues, No problems. (all under or at 48V...things get More Wacky with above 48V and Really Really Wacky above 300V)

why it works ok:
Switches are rated by how much current and Voltage they can switch "off"; as switching "on" a circuit load isn't that hard to do. When switching "on" a load a small amount of plasma is generated that is rarely high enough to weld or damage contacts. Unless the switch is WILDLY under-rated for your application as in... don't expect a 1A switch to work with a 30A circuit.
Not to get too technical (ya, right!) but when pulling the switch contacts away from each other under a load (an electrical load requires Voltage times Amperage, or what's known as Watts), LOTS more plasma (arcing) is generated. If the plasma is strong and long enough it can and will weld the contacts together, which can be "a bad thing" (Martha Stewart's evil twin speaking) ) But it's also a guud thing because that's how arc welders work
If there is no load to speak of, an under-rated switch with a sufficiently large enough contact area that can handle the (expected) load, can be used IF it's NOT switched while the load is present (i e the trike is under power)
-When the motor is stopped there isn't much of a load to speak of.
or otherwise this is also known as:
YMMV
(Your Mileage May Vary)

If you're not comfortable doing/using something someone sez on the iNterWEbbIes for whatever reasons you have, (LOL Expurts sez so) it's always best to Not Do It
-keep the myths alive-

Great Post DDK! I've been looking for the this little bit of info for a long time...

I have pigtails coming of my 36V ping. I wanted to find a switch that could handle the volts and amps so I could power my converters to my 100 led. from what ive read here one of these three should be just fine.

1. http://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-LIGHT-TIP-T ... e5&vxp=mtr

IMG_3593.jpg (60.56 KiB) Viewed 186 times

2.http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPST-Heavy-Duty ... 27bf23d706

$(KGrHqF,!lsE6Cgk,2Z+BOk-(p!gL!~~_12.JPG (14.88 KiB) Viewed 186 times

3.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Pushbutto ... 564459f814

$(KGrHqYOKpUE24ueo-vlBN3yPDKM5g~~_12.JPG (15.82 KiB) Viewed 186 times

What do you guys think? 1 2 or 3?

Hey ddk have you ever seen this one in action? 75apms!!!
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-SW75.html

store_switch_75a.jpg (6.93 KiB) Viewed 186 times

[its_me_jason]

Also I was wondering why these switches only have two contacts? Shouldn't they have four +- in and +- out?

[DAND214]

Looks like a good bike. Rust drives thieves away.

That's my hope. I considered replacing the rusty fenders and handlebars, but the rust (patina) adds character.

I took apart the speed sensor on the Cycle Analyst. It seems to be just a housing for the wires which were held in by glue. Surprisingly simple. Do the wires need to be reintegrated into the housing a particular way, or can they just be stuffed in there and reglued?

cass1.jpg

I like the idea of a battery interrupt switch or a precharge circuit . This way, I can seal up the controller to be watertight and use the interrupt as a power switch... that is unless there is a compelling reason to do otherwise..

You will need to open the housing, inside you will find a reed switch the the wires connect to. they need to be soldered on to the reed switch. There is no polarity on the wiring, it just opens and closes the circuit to count the rpms that are converted to MPH.

A small soldering iron is all needed with some solder.

Enjoy you fancy trike.

Dan

[DAND214]

Also I was wondering why these switches only have two contacts? Shouldn't they have four +- in and +- out?

You only want to connect one of the power leads. Some do the negative others the positive. take you pick.
I have used the positive one in my case.

Dan