Replace phase wires MAC

[lukepnz]

Hi Quajochem

Firstly great upgrade.

I'm thinking of doing something similar to my own.

Did you use the JB weld for:
- soldering the joints
- or did you use a normal soldering iron, and then use the JB weld to protect the soldered joints?

I'm not sure if jb weld conducts electricity?

[Quajochem]

Hi lukepnz!

Thanks, I have had no problems with the motor so far, nothing seems to heat up even at 50A for longer periods, so that's good! (though I'd recommend oil cooling if you go with 50A continu phase current, because I think the stator would heat up to unhealthy levels without knowing, melting the soldering etc..) I go with 30A cont 40-50A peak, so I think I will ben fine without oil.. And we'll see where the summer takes us.. (i'm on 48V so nothing to worry about..)

JB-weld does not conduct electricity, it's said to be an isolator. (And if it did I would be screwed now )
I used JB-weld to fixate the newly placed halls, then put the PCB back in place, then I soldered every electrical connection, with soldering iron and tin for (standard) hall wiring & mini torch for phase wires to pre heat them. I also made sure the stator wires and the phase wires made a connection and take a route as flat as possible, so they stay well away from the cover. It was not doable to slide some shrink wire over the phases before soldering, because it would heat up and shrink before I had a chance to slide it in place. so I tried to isolate the soldered phase connections with some pieces of shrink wire rapped around a few turns (KYNAR shrink wire higher melting point, stronger and more flexible same as used for the axle wiring),
And then I JB-welded everyhing to secure it and isolate it, I let it cure for a few hours under a lamp, generously sprayed the insides with ACF-50 (electrics anti corrosion spray) before putting it together.
By the way, it's said before, but to get the epoxy off when disassembling before the upgrade, you should heat it with a minitorch to get it soft and easily removed, leaving you with a clean and undamaged PCB surface. The holes in the PCB where the wires stick through, can get damaged when desoldering, so make sure to scrape some of the coating off around the holes and then be sure to use enough tin to bridge possible gaps between the wire and the bare copper on the PCB..
(I didn't look into it, but there are different types of soldering tin on the market, with different melting points, could be worthwile to put some research into that too..)

I used SYKAFLEX to seal the axle bearrings and cover plates. I also used that to seal up the axle-hole where the wires exit aswell as in some parts of the 3:1 shrink wire used around the axle nut. The whole thing is practically sealed all the way up to the controller wires, and that sykalex dries to a rubber like substance, good stuff! (but use gloves and work clothes when applying because you're sure to get messy and it wil not go off your hands nomatter how much you scrub, it's just the stickiest stuff...brrrrrr )

I am happy with the way it turned out!

I have to repeat it, though because I ordered an 8T stator & better gears
Aswell as a better fit controller, (cell_man EB3 12FET) but thats another tread..

Good luck with upgrading & stuff
JB weld is the stuff! The highest temperature rating I could find, and if heated above 100celcius, (upto 350celcius!) it hardens even more..

[nebriancent]

one note on the JB weld.:..
it dosnt come off and for that reason alone I would not use it in a hub motor myself

I use high temp automotive silicone myself
I can still peel it off ... it seals stuff up ... and it acts nicely as a adhesive

I just would hate to see a hall fail and you would have to deal with that JB weld

but other than that good work

I like the gearless hubs myself as they seam to shed heat a little better and at 100 amps peak seem to climb hills like a bat out of hell without the need for aditional cooling year round
mind you I'm pulling 20 amps full out on a flat once I've got up to speed

[Quajochem]

one note on the JB weld.:..
it dosnt come off and for that reason alone I would not use it in a hub motor myself

I use high temp automotive silicone myself
I can still peel it off ... it seals stuff up ... and it acts nicely as a adhesive

I just would hate to see a hall fail and you would have to deal with that JB weld

but other than that good work

I like the gearless hubs myself as they seam to shed heat a little better and at 100 amps peak seem to climb hills like a bat out of hell without the need for aditional cooling year round
mind you I'm pulling 20 amps full out on a flat once I've got up to speed

Oops, luckliy I can swap the whole unit..
About that sillicone, does that go well with oil and water? Is it durable?

[nebriancent]

i use it to seal up transmissions on cars so it better be good or i have 10 years of explaning to customers why their cars faqed up