Did the charger shut off automatically with the green light?
Also, I forgot to mention it is best to recharge it only after it has cooled off from the ride, back to room temperature. I've cheated and put it in the fridge for 10 minutes to help this, sometimes.
But normally I wouldn't be in a hurry, and just let it cool normally, or at most put a fan on it.
jasonf150 wrote: I can't seem to locate the CA manual to change it to mph/miles.
It's on the ebikes.ca site, on the Cycle Analyst page, if you can't find your paper copy.
So, when I push the motor, either going up a hill, or when I just give it tons of "gas", it stutters (hesitates, sputters, "misses", whatever you want to call it). So is that normal? Is it because of the battery?
It's probably because the battery drops below whatever the CA's LVC is, so the LVC lowers throttle output, then voltage goes back up, throttle is raised, voltage drops, etc.
If it's not the CA LVC, then it is probably the controller's LVC.
That NiMH is pretty old and rode hard, and is only really capable of maybe 10-15A without such bad sag that it just about cancels out any increase in current so that the wattage output doesn't go very high with it.
So it won't really support hard riding very well--when you get your "real" pack in, though, you'll probably wonder how anyone ever used packs like that NiMH.
Also how important is the volt reading? The CA says vmin is 24. Is that bad? Aren't I supposed to keep it above a certain point? I assumed that would be a always-current reading of how many volts the battery had in it. So as I rode, it would go down lower and lower, until it reached lvc. That doesn't seem to be the case as that reading was all over the place as I rode different speeds.
Voltage drops as the battery has to supply current to the motor. This is true of every battery, but with some their internal resistance is so low that you won't notice the drop much, if at all, until current is very high. This is usually discussed as "C-rate", or the multiplier of the capacity of the battery that equals the current it can output without much voltage drop.
A NiMH battery is typically 1-2C, and this one being made of smaller capacity cells, and is old, and only a 9Ah pack, would be the lower end of that, really, thus 9A, approximately, before it sees such voltage sag that it causes much less power than you expect out of it.
If it was still new, it could probably do up to 2C, or 18A, easily, and maybe a bit more. But not nowadays.
What I would recommend to avoid deeply abusing it is settng the CA to a current limit of 15A, and an LVC of 33-34V. Between those two, it will help manage the battery use so you get more range out of it and so it doesn't damage the battery or potentially cause cell-reversal if you pull a lot of current when it gets low on power (close to empty). Cell-reversal in NiMH can actually cause them to burn or explode, though I have never had it happen on the bikes.
I did accidentally charge some little AAA NiCd cells backwards, many years back, when I setup a non-keyed charger for a tricorder prop I'd built. I left it to charge, not realizing my mistake, and after a while it heated the cells so much that it blew the tricorder apart, and put shards of metal from the cell cans in the cieling and walls.
It's not likely that any of that would happen during a ride, but setting that current limit and LVC should prevent it completely.