Ypedal wrote:First , i'd run a capacity test on the pack, not using the bike... a bench test of my LBD setup with a calibrated CA or equivalent... rule out the bike side entirely.
Then if the pack can deliver 18 or so Ah on the bench, then start checking the bike, is the CA calibration correct ?..
you get 14 miles range at what speed before it cuts out ?
what is the pack voltage under load when the pack cuts out ? ( not at rest )
amberwolf wrote:When you measure the cells, are you doing it at the cells, or at the BMS board itself? It's possible there is a loose connection or bad wire that causes just enough resistance to cause the BMS to read lower than the cell actually is for one or more cells, and that's triggering the cutout.
If you have any way of monitoring per-cell voltages while riding, connected at the BMS PCB itself, I'd try that just to see.
liveforphysics wrote:I suspect a false-positive hall combo.
Some people ride for years on a false-positive, putting huge stress on controllers and batteries, getting terrible Wh/mile, getting random part failures etc.
Measure your no-load full-speed current. Wheel off the ground, pin it, measure current drawn off the battery to do it. If it's over an amp or two, then you know you're running on a false positive.
John in CR wrote:You're running a 4110 controller, probably with an R12 mod, so the LVC could be inaccurate and shutting the controller down at the wrong voltage. Set it a lot lower. You have a CA and a BMS anyway. You can test this by setting the LVC 1V below current pack voltage, and if it doesn't work, then that's the problem. Then if you really want LVC protection from controller, you have to find the relationship of Actual Voltage to Programmed Voltage.
I hope it's as simple as that for you. I got nibbled on by that exact issue, but run or not run at all just last week, so it reared its head at home, not on the road. I can imagine your frustration.
John[/quoteitchynackers wrote:I agree with John. Still sounds like a LVC issue. Try this: run the bike until it shuts down. Then reprogram the LVC on the CA to VERY low (as an experiment, so it doesn't affect anything). Then reflash your controller with the LVC VERY low. See if the bike now runs again. If so, its just your LVC setting in the controller. Like John said, with those modified controllers, you can't take the LVC programmed value literally. For example, on my controller if I want an acual LVC of 86.4v, I have to set the software at (86.4 +2)/2 = 44.2V. Hope this helps.
Xanda2260 wrote:5A no load! Something aint right there, thats rather high. Looking like Lukes nailed it...
What speed do you travel at? And what voltage does 24s of A123 come out as? Using the 74v that you cut out at, it looks like you're consuming around 50wh/mile. If you're shifting (35+) then its reasonable, but if you're only doing 25 or so, then its high.
Edit: just seen that you've switch halls, but not phase. Now I dont know if this applies to your crystalite hub but when I went to a Lyen contoller I had to switch the green and yellow halls, AND the green and yellow phase before it would work properly. This is a 9c though....
Xanda2260 wrote:Edit: just seen that you've switch halls, but not phase. Now I dont know if this applies to your crystalite hub but when I went to a Lyen contoller I had to switch the green and yellow halls, AND the green and yellow phase before it would work properly. This is a 9c though....
CA is calibrated correctly - I think. All i did to it was set the rshunt value. Is there anything else I needed to do? Obviously I set the speedo stuff up...
Ypedal wrote:CA is calibrated correctly - I think. All i did to it was set the rshunt value. Is there anything else I needed to do? Obviously I set the speedo stuff up...
What is it set to atm ? and how did you obtain the proper value ?
If you had the hall/phase color combo wrong, the motor would be really.. REALLY hot at the end of a ride.. and i'd expect some occastional rough dead stop starts.. would also be higher than 4 amp no load. .. normally 1 or 2 amps no load but add a big fat heavy tire ( not perfectly ballanced ) and a scrubbing disk brake calipper it goes up.
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