dnmun wrote:yep, it is supposed to split along the marks scribed into the cover so it doesn't blow out all over. i also like how you even cooked the power resistor like a hot dog. that should be in the fried guinea pig honor roll, imo.
dnmun wrote:how do you know what voltage you applied? did you measure with a voltmeter before you hooked up the controller?
dnmun wrote:the little IC next to the input power resistor may be the voltage regulator too, look for part numbers on it if you can read it. since the 3 terminal regulator may have blown up, the voltage may have shorted through it to the 5V regulator and also to the other mosfet drivers on the 12V rail and that voltage woulda been way too high for all those components too so i suspect they are burned up too.
dnmun wrote:edit: the Q13 is what i was thinking is the 12V regulator, but that spool next to it looks like an inductor so it may use a DC-DC converter for the 12V regulated input. so Q13 may not be a regulator but the IC controller for the converter. since the big cap that split is on the S/D buss then the mosfets also saw high voltage but they don't look burned up, but it never ran under load so they may be ok.
dnmun wrote:edit^2: maybe the Q13 is a power mosfet for the switching for the dc converter, the green cap at 100V is on the red wire which is your input voltage for the circuit current and the big red wire with 12AWG on it is the power to the output mosfets and runs over to the source rail with the caps on it. they will all be suspect now too from overvoltage. the zener diode in the upper left above the inductor on that perforated yellow section maybe is the diode for the dc converter and the other discrete parts in that burned section may be related to that, not sure. you can unsolder the burned up input power resistor and see what the resistance measures with a meter, but you want 5W instead of 2W if it gets that hot. but cut out or unsolder the blown caps, then try putting 12V on the 12V rail by using a small 12V battery, then see if you can find 5V on the 5V rail, and if you can then see if there is 5V on the hall sensor power lead, the red wire, and see if there is 5V on the throttle power lead. if that is the case and you have 5V you can then test the microprocessor by seeing if the hall sensors will toggle when the 5 pin plugf is connected to the motor and you rotate the wheel. if they toggle that means the microprocessor works, so may be worth some effort then. but no idea how to identify the parts from the codes on the Q13, but it may actually still be ok. never know.
dnmun wrote:i think that is the high side and it would short to the drains on the low side if there was a connection there. you can see the current coming in on the source next to the C4 label.
you don't have to power up the mosfets in order to test the board to see if the microprocessor still works. so those big caps can wait.
but since we don't know if the input voltage regulation works, i thought it would be easiest to attach 12V from a battery, like a 12V SLA, to the 12V rail, and then when the 12V rail is hot, check to see if the 5V regulator works and the 5V rail is hot and then check the microprossesor to see if it works by seeing if it will respond to the hall sensor signals if present by switching the mosfet drivers. but first just try to see if the 5V toggles on the hall sensor leads.
neptronix wrote:WOW. Is this a picture of the controller you got from Lyen? looks like someone forgot to finish soldering the traces in to connect 3 of your FETs. So you were really running a 12FET or 15FET in reality.
You need to contact him right now if you bought this controller from him.
The other problem is that you went over the voltage limit. 100v is the literal limit for the FETs and probably the caps.
Yeah, that thing that exploded, that capacitor? thats where i'd start replacing stuff.
the current for each lead goes through a resistor inside the controller, which you can see right next to where the wires are soldered onto the pcb. 3 in row, GBY leads going out on the other side.
when current from the 5V supply flows through the resistor, there is a voltage drop on the outer end of that resistor as the hall sensor 'sinks' the current to ground. the microprocessor detects this voltage drop and that sets the logic state to the microprocessor as to which of the phases should be active. you can see where the traces run from the end of the resistor back to the micro.
you want to measure the voltage on the outer end of the resistor, just like what the micro sees, as the wheel slowly, i mean slowly, rotates and the magnets move by the hall sensors. verify that all three hall sensors toggle between 5V and almost zero volts. you can also measure this on the wires in the 5 pin plug but since the controller is open just measure right on the trace, with the black probe on grd.
dnmun wrote: each one has to toggle on and off. when you know that then we can go look for the traces from the micro out to the integrated circuit device that drives the mosfet gates. the driver will be out by each of the mosfets, and the traces will all run together back to the same 3 sequential pins on the micro. gotta find them and then measure the voltages on those traces as you rotate the wheel. the mosfets don't have to be active to do this.
dnmun wrote:edit> just found this circuit richard drew on another thread
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/vi ... 14#p575114
i think this is exactly what you have for your input voltage regulation and the Q13 is the 7812, and the diode in the corner is the 20V zener and the resistor connecting them is the little surface mount to the left of the 12V regulator, or maybe it is Q17 for the mosfet and the R120 is the resistor
dnmun wrote: it does look like that is the 12V, looks like it runs over to one end of that 3 terminal device Q13, with the ceramic surface mount cap to ground in between, you took out the resistor that bridged from Vcc to the 12V. did you measure the resistor with your voltmeter? don't need it for this anyway.
dnmun wrote:wowowow, you did good.
those three traces from the micro are the signal to the mosfet drivers, and if you can see them switch on and off as the wheel turns, you can assume the micro is still functional and you should be able to use the controller again after swapping out the caps and the input resistor. i don't know if those traces will be high or low, but if they change logic state with the hall sensors, then you are home free. really good work to find those so far.
put the black on grd, and red on the three pins on the micro and let us know how it turns out. we can explain about richard's circuit and your input regulation later.
dnmun wrote: never did find out if the pumping diode D0A and the small charge storage cap next to it was blown up like i thought i saw in that picture.
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