E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[Tex]

Hyena. I owe you a call email back re the hadron I've kit. Tommorow.

[Elliot]

[quote="Hyena something I somewhat shamefully looked into making a few years back
[/quote]

I'd love to see that video where you drop in and win that bike race, but this time wearing the speeder helmet

[Stealth_Bombering]

Justtoby,
I noticed the frames as well. 100K right there in retail. Really neat. Do you have any information about the new upgraded batteries coming with all of the steatlh models? Besides most likely being lipo4, I am wondering if its either more capacity same weight or same capicity and slightly lighter weight. Rix

As far as I understand from Darin they are a new spec due to new supplier or new cells (probably due to slow supply) but Darin said there was no difference in output at all. Yes, still lifepo4.

I have a white bomber that I was hoping to have shipped this week. I was told some of the batteries didn't pass the final test so they sent them back to the manufacturer. The new shipment should be here in a couple of weeks and my bike is expected to be shipped out by the end of the month. Sounds like we are in a simular situation.

Just got my trailer hitch installed today so now I need to find a good bike hauler. I found an aluminum one for dirt bikes anybody try the amc-400 out yet? Below is the link. One of the images has the dimensions. My concern is that maybe the tires wouldn't fit properly between the rails or the rails may be to wide. If anybody has any input let me know.

http://www.amazon.com/AMC-400-Lightweight-Aluminum-Motocross-Receivers/dp/B000B8LIKM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1336793131&sr=8-1

While i'm at it does anybody have a recommendation for a light or dual lights? I found this article and was thinking about getting one of the magicshine mj-872 lights. I had a cateye on my last bike which didn't stay in place and was unreliable so was thinking of getting two lights. I am not riding in the mountains at night just around town so I don't need to light up the forest or anything crazy but it would be nice just in case the moment arises.
http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/best-mountain-bike-lights-28195/

Here is my motorized bike background. My fist bike was an ezip which I modded to 27v which lasted about two months until I melted the motor Then I built a 48v BMC bike which was a huge improvement over the ezip. After a few months I had reliability issues with the controller, then I went through two batteries so I called it quits. After that I built a two stroke kit which was pretty fast around 35 - 40mph after all the mods. While it was fast it was just to loud and vibrated to much to be relaxing to ride. My next bike was a 4-stroke which was much more quite but had no torque, top speed was descent on a flat surface but the torque was defenitly lacking. After all that I decided an electric bike was the way to go and now that I have some extra cash I wanted to get a bullet proof bike that would be reliable and come with a warranty. I was looking at the optibike when I saw a link to the bomber after that I was sold. I was also seriously considering a Phoenix Paratrooper bike which I probably would of got if I didin't have the extra cash for a bomber. The Phoenix Paratrooper seems like a pretty good bang for your buck bike and being able to fold it is pretty cool.

Long story short I can't wait to get my bomber. Riding an electric bike is by far the most relaxing thing I have ever done. No phone to distract me, no texting, surfing the net, just piece and quite. Man I can't wait!

[Rix]

Hello Shane,

I am with you, the wait has been forever. Almost halfway through May then June and hopefully it's go time. I checked out the link for the bike AMC 400 MX Hitch Hauler. One website rated it for 400 Ibs or about 182 KG capacity while another site rated it for 450 Ibs or about 205 KG capacity. Eitherway if way more than enough for the Bombers. The bombers wheels will be much narrower than the ramp rails. Our bomber tires are about 3" wide, the rails are probably 5 inches. When your hauling the bomber, use two short bungie cords and wrap them around the wheels and ramp in conjuntion with the tiedowns. you could jump your vehicle and the bomber wouldn't come off the ramp. I used to haul my KTM 450 on a hitch hauler, but driving at night, my truck lights pointed up and everybody I passed flashed me becasue they thought my brights were on. Of course my the katoom is 247Ibs. So the batteries didn't pass the final test. I can't blame Stealth for making sure our Bombers are ready to go. Let me know whey you get your bomber, mine will probably be coming shortly after then.

Rix

[Rix]

Here is a pic of my Lizard Skins fork and shock protectors and a Felt Bermaster Tire. I really liked this tire on my old cruiser. I am hoping it can handle the power of the Bomber.

[coldfusion594]

Howdy! I do not own a Stealth Electric bike.... BUT instead of opening a new thread, what kind of motor does the bomber have? haha I can't find it anywhere!

[Cowardlyduck]

Here is a pic of my Lizard Skins fork and shock protectors and a Felt Bermaster Tire. I really liked this tire on my old cruiser. I am hoping it can handle the power of the Bomber.

It's not standard, but that's the tire that came on my Fighter. It's a great all rounder, but noisy as on the road/bike path. I didn't even need a bell to warn pedestrians I was coming as it sounded like a truck was about to hit them from behind when I was approaching.

I found I couldn't fit my Lizard skin around the swing arm. How are you doing it?

Cheers

*Edit* Oh, just re-read your post. Your not using them for the chain. Hmmm, maybe I can link 2 together for my chain.

[remf]

CD is spot on. I think the Berm Master is the best 3" all-rounder...big and tough, perfect for the Bomber. The semi-trailer effect is a built-in safety feature

[Mr Lowbank]

Had a near off last night pedal hit a rock and my balls had a close look the CA. Now in just need to know how to get the crank off. Is there a puller that will fit ?

[full-throttle]

I don't think you need a puller - the cranks are self extracting.

i.e. turn the smaller hex counter-clock-wise. It will bottom out against the cap and release the crank.

[Hyena]

Ouch, nice hit.

On a related note has anyone tried to remove the cranks on a fighter ? I imagine you need a special extractor tool with a hollow core to clear the thin shaft that runs through the schlumpf ? I went to take mine off on the weekend and ran into this problem, and quickly discovered when I couldn't drill a hole in my tool that it must be hardened...

[full-throttle]

google is your friend

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=37269&start=75#p572790
http://www.british-human-power.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=3655&title=schlumpf-help
http://www.schlumpf.ch/hp/handbuecher/WHB.sd.engl.pdf

Removing cranks
To remove a crank, proceed as follows:
- Hold the gear shift button with pliers and unscrew the tiny Allen screw M3
with an 1.5-mm Allen wrench.
- Unscrew the button.
- Remove the axle bolt with a 14mm box spanner. Check, to make sure that
the washer underneath the bolt didn’t remain in the axle hole.
- Insert the small tube from our tool set, before using a standard puller to
remove the crank. (an M6-nut may do the job as well, if you don’t have the
original tool set).
Very important: If not using the small tube or an M6 nut, you will destroy
the shifting shaft when pushing with a standard puller!
If using a different crankarm not provided by the manufacturer, make sure the
hole has a depth of at least 8mm.
Please also make sure that the right-side crankarm is not wider than 25mm,
to prevent it from touching the spider when being tightened.

[QuietRush]

What a coincidence Hyena. I'd had exactly the same conundrum but just solved it 24hrs ago with successful crank removal on mine, was lodged on well. There's a cheap little crank extractor tool from BBB that has a removable pin that fits nicely over the schlumpf - picked it up for ~$20 from my LBS. Will post a pic when I have a moment.

Looks like you can get it cheaper from Chain Reaction though, see http://www.myshopping.com.au/ZM--121444 ... ctor_BTL14

[Mr Lowbank]

I don't think you need a puller - the cranks are self extracting.

i.e. turn the smaller hex counter-clock-wise. It will bottom out against the cap and release the crank.

I did try that and the cap started to bulge I thought I was butchering it so thought there must be another way. As for tools like the BBB PowerPull Crank Extractor they wont work as the shaft is hollow and you cant see the end of the shaft. although you could put a rod inside the shaft and push against the bolt at the other end. but the Thread in the crank arm is a 1" (25.4mm) diameter thread, so is bigger than your standard thread. I need somethinhg like this RaceFace EXI Puller Cap in 1" http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=47582
both the main hex bolt and cap are right hand thread.

[glowwormbicycles]

I don't think you need a puller - the cranks are self extracting.

i.e. turn the smaller hex counter-clock-wise. It will bottom out against the cap and release the crank.

I did try that and the cap started to bulge I thought I was butchering it so thought there must be another way.

2 different systems being discussed for each bike Bomber vs Fighter

Bomber's Vboxx crank arms do have self extracting inner bolts. It's a nice easy system if nothing's seized up. No tools needed except the big hex wrench.

Fighter has a square taper BB axle hollow in the middle with the shift rod that sits through it. The Fighter needs the crank extractor with a hole in the middle as mentioned.

[Mr Lowbank]

I don't think you need a puller - the cranks are self extracting.

i.e. turn the smaller hex counter-clock-wise. It will bottom out against the cap and release the crank.

I did try that and the cap started to bulge I thought I was butchering it so thought there must be another way.

2 different systems being discussed for each bike Bomber vs Fighter

Bomber's Vboxx crank arms do have self extracting inner bolts. It's a nice easy system if nothing's seized up. No tools needed except the big hex wrench.

Fighter has a square taper BB axle hollow in the middle with the shift rod that sits through it. The Fighter needs the crank extractor with a hole in the middle as mentioned.

OK will give it another try if I pop the cap out I will have to go to plan B. I guess new crank will come with new cap?

[Hyena]

AH, I didn't think to make a little spacer like that. Even just sitting a small nut over it would probabyl suffice. *smacks forehead*

On an unrelated note, I'm still waiting for someone to post a pic of their steath tow bar rack

[Rix]

Hyena,
Checked out your fighter on you website. Looking at the pic, did you relace your hub motor to a 26" MTB Wheel? It looks bigger than the front. If so, I want to know how it handles. Is it pushing the front in the corners? Breaking loose? Stuff like that. BTW, great videos. Please keep em going.

Rix

[Hyena]

Hey Rix,
My fighter is running a larger width motor but the diametre is the same. The actual rims are the same 24" front and back but I'm running a bigger, knobbier tyre on the back for increased traction in the loose stuff and getting the power down. It might look a bit bigger for that reason, or it could just be the camera angle. A 26" up front would give it a nice dirt bike style stance though.

Here's my last 2 fighter vids which I didn't post here:

[Archer]

Hyena,
Checked out your fighter on you website. Looking at the pic, did you relace your hub motor to a 26" MTB Wheel? It looks bigger than the front. If so, I want to know how it handles. Is it pushing the front in the corners? Breaking loose? Stuff like that. BTW, great videos. Please keep em going.

Rix

I too checked out Hyenas fighter on his site and indeed it looks like the rear wheel is quite a bit larger.After a bit more viewing of the pic I noticed the ground at the front of the bike is going downhill.A slope if you will that loweres the front of the bike making the rear look larger.

True?

[Hyena]

I think that photo is a bit misleading, I must have been standing closer to the back wheel or something.

I can't take a picture at the moment because it's in pieces (moar upgrades ) but here's one from a while back that's probably a better representation of how it really looks.

[Paul_G]

Fit a 13T Freewheel to your Bomber....64 Pic's posted by Jim Kirk over at:

https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgr ... l-vLcUT0xY

[Rix]

Hyena,
That Halo Contra you have on the rear looks great. Looks like it would really hook up in the loose stuff. Are the knobs bigger than the duro razorbacks that come stock on the new bombers? I like the rotor and calliper mods from Zero you have. Your fighter is really built for going fast, and stopping fast. Your latest videos are awesome. Hopefull my bomber arrives in 2 weeks. YAH!!!

Cowardly duck,
You mentioned you had the Felt Bermasters on your bike and they were noisy on pavement. How was the traction off road? Other than being noisy, was the tire durable? What about rolling resistance on pavement. If I could design the perfect Ebike tire, it would have the following traits: low rolling resistance, super traction in wet, sticky on dry, excellent off road, fast on road, very light, puncture proof, last forever. "Right". Seriously though, I am always on the hunt for good all around tires and would like to know what you think about the Bermasters.

Rix

[ManxE]

Hyena,

How easy are the Halo Contra's to get on and off compared to the Razorbacks? Likewise (@Cowardly Duck) - the Bermmasters?

Cheers,

ManxE

[Cowardlyduck]

Cowardly duck,
You mentioned you had the Felt Bermasters on your bike and they were noisy on pavement. How was the traction off road? Other than being noisy, was the tire durable? What about rolling resistance on pavement. If I could design the perfect Ebike tire, it would have the following traits: low rolling resistance, super traction in wet, sticky on dry, excellent off road, fast on road, very light, puncture proof, last forever. "Right". Seriously though, I am always on the hunt for good all around tires and would like to know what you think about the Bermasters.

Rix

Yeah, I don't think you'll ever find what your looking for. You'll always have to compromise on something with tires. It's like wanting a car that can go bush bashing (i.e. 4WD) but then also wanting it to have good fuel economy in the city(i.e. Hatchback/small car). Never gonna happen.

That being said, I reckon the Berm Masters might be one of the least compromising all round tire's around (like my Subaru Outback ). They don't stick as much as Hookworms to the pavement. Nor do they grab as much as Razor backs to the dirt. But they can do a bit of both.

Off road they were OK, not great, but good enough for fire trails, light single track and some loose dirt. I wouldn't won't to use them long term in mud or really rough stuff, but they can handle a little bit.

They do wear fast though. I only had mine on for 3 months and in that time I wore down half the height of the nobs on the rear. I'm running Crazy Bobs now as I mostly do commuting with my Fighter.

Here's a list of Pro's/ Cons I could think of for the Berm Masters

Pros:
-Multipurpose (All Rounder)
-OK traction on dirt
-Relatively Puncture Proof (I never got one)
-Can run low PSI (20 I think)
-Wide, for good contact/traction (3 Inch)

Cons:
-Can skip around under hard braking on pavement, or in the wet (due to the large gap between the nobs)
-Wears fast (on an Ebike)
-Not the BEST road or off road tire (i.e. compromise...as above)
-Heavy (>1kg each, not that that matters on an Ebike )

My plan is to leave road tires (i.e. Crazy Bobs, Hookworms, etc) on most of the time, and deal with the pain of switching to off road tires the night before I know I'm tackling some dirt the next day.

I'm thinking of getting these for off road. Probably get the 3inch for the rear and the 2.6 for the front.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=12381


Cheers,

*EDIT* OH...LOL, Just realised Hyena's got the Contra's too. lol, the name didn't click for me. That tells me they ARE a good choice then.
Hyena, what are your thoughts on running the 3" on the rear and 2.6" on the front? Would I just be better off running 3" front and rear?