Nice bike light on ebay 24-90V 12w 29.99U$

[rui_fujino]

How are you guys sealing up the back of these lights?

What for?

you mean for water proofing right?

[parabellum]

How are you guys sealing up the back of these lights?

What for?

you mean for water proofing right?

See no need to seal it against water, diodes are sealed on the board with kind of glue (even if not, what is the problem with water?). What else?

[GCinDC]

not sure if said before, but it's good - or, i should say it works - up to 99V

i got fed up trying to figure out a mount and opted for a quick and easy: one small worm clamp attached to handlebar (with a slice of rubber underneath), and then another bigger one looped through it at the bottom, and merely tightened around the head. very stable (since it's hanging and not protruding) but easy enough to adjust.

[miuan]

I found that most plastic reflector mounts are perfect. They come stock with every bike so all of us should have them on hand. They only use a single bolt to mount the light, but mine's held reliably and the plastic still allows height adjustment when tightened on the bar.

[Architectonic]

I had a lot of issues with plastic torch mounts (when I was using a 3-LED torch) So. I opted for one of those metal camera mounts from Dealextreme (69116).

Light is more than acceptable. Looks a little ghetto, but whatever...

[rui_fujino]

I got mine today! Here is more detailed pictures and so on.

side view

from above

all parts taken apart

LEDs

casing

the only thing I've noticed is that front cover (casing) has two threaded holes which doesn’t fit the screws that came with the kit. i'm assuming they are for other uses...I'm starting to think what maybe the best solution to put this onto my bike...
I've tested it with 52v(spare battery) and OMG it is much brighter than my expectation it turns out to be brighter then my 800lm home made LEDs! my home made ones are over volted (12v) light which are 800 or more(compared with my cateye light).
I'll update more later on.

[bobale]

Now that's a nice review .

[rui_fujino]

okay so here is my bike!

The mount that came with are little bit useless but i've worked on it so now its perfect!
I've used it for 2days now in the dark and It is brilliant! not only It is bright It has slightly wider light area than cycling lights so I can see more
I have been cycling around 35mph with it and I'm conformable to cycle with it.
I did make the light to turn on and off with my custom switch so I can turn on/off with ease!

Here are some night pics

[iovaykind]

More about how you mounted it please

[rui_fujino]

More about how you mounted it please

i'll take some detailed pictures tomorrow

[chroot]

Your pictures seems isn't good enough lumen except hot spot without flood area?

When I finish with my moving new place and I will show you my solarforce L2P flashlight beamshot pictures. I drilled a hole on the L2P tube body and wired to the LYEN DC-DC (84v to 4.2v). Darn too bright mix thrower-flood (rough about 1600 lumens) meaning I have excellent visibility easy catch the potholes ahead and more safety while speeding 40mph at night time. I work for UPS everyday at 3am.

Sent from my Tbolt smartphone using Endless Sphere app

[Scruffoid]

Your pictures seems isn't good enough lumen except hot spot without flood area?

When I finish with my moving new place and I will show you my solarforce L2P flashlight beamshot pictures. I drilled a hole on the L2P tube body and wired to the LYEN DC-DC (84v to 4.2v). Darn too bright mix thrower-flood (rough about 1600 lumens) meaning I have excellent visibility easy catch the potholes ahead and more safety while speeding 40mph at night time. I work for UPS everyday at 3am.

Sent from my Tbolt smartphone using Endless Sphere app

So how much did It cost you? Where are the actual real calibrated lumen test that verify the luimen rating as per the standard.

The pictures shown above are with the light facing to much down in my opinion there is other photos that show the beam pattern better if you read the rest of the post.

If you have a good light for a good price then start a thread on so we can all find them easy enough later on. But please give some more details rather than my light is better than yours.

Sorry if i sound harsh but everywhere you go every single person you see says what sort of light is that on your bike, so you tell em and then they say yeah mine rated at 10000000000 lumens so its heaps better than yours. It might just be better but this light is very bright. Can take a wide voltage inpuot range. 24V-90V so it runs off pack voltages and stright from teh AUX voltage plug on the CA that most of us have. No DC-DC convertor required, and it only cost $30 delivered to your door. If there is more of them out there like it then ill buy them as well. I love bike lights. I'm already running 4 lights on my ride

Scruff

[rui_fujino]

More about how you mounted it please

i'll take some detailed pictures tomorrow

Here are how I've mount it. It maybe hard to see but all i did was, Bent the original mount and used metal zip ties to clamp on to the stem.

[rui_fujino]

I've realised my CA shows -ve reading when I turn the light on...does anyone know why?
also I was wondering if I pulled this yellow wire out by accident or its suppose to be like this?

[NeilP]

As you have found , the supplied 'mount' is crap.
Even the holes do not line up ..it is just an off cut of stainless steel..utter shit..but the lights are good.

No idea about the yellow wire

But yes, the CA goes down and that is correct..the power is coming through the shunt on the bike, and the CA displays current flowing through the shunt. it probably reads about 0.25 ?

edit , just thought, does your CA have the separate speed sensor, the magnet sensor on the front wheel and not pick up the speed from the hub.

if o then that wire is probably the pulse sender for speed if you ditched the remote sender and used the speed sending from the hall pulses

[NeilP]

Yep I am right...

last page of the CA manual

http://www.ebikes.ca/drainbrain/CA_Large_V223_Web.pdf

Screen shot 2012-06-03 at 20.02.15.png (59.97 KiB) Viewed 531 times

[rui_fujino]

As you have found , the supplied 'mount' is crap.
Even the holes do not line up ..it is just an off cut of stainless steel..utter shit..but the lights are good.

No idea about the yellow wire

But yes, the CA goes down and that is correct..the power is coming through the shunt on the bike, and the CA displays current flowing through the shunt. it probably reads about 0.25 ?

edit , just thought, does your CA have the separate speed sensor, the magnet sensor on the front wheel and not pick up the speed from the hub.

if o then that wire is probably the pulse sender for speed if you ditched the remote sender and used the speed sending from the hall pulses

yea it reads around -0.26~ -0.28 which is annoying because it means It also tells me my regen is increasing when I use more light....
and I do have the magnet sensor but it does not pick up the speed from the hub.

[NeilP]

Umm odd, it should not show regen current, it should show current drain

I have wired lights to both my bikes, via the CA, and they both show current drain when on, not regen

If you havd regen showing when light comes on, then something wrong with where yourself or someone else has wired something

[Scruffoid]

I went through this as well. not to sure where i put the details. I think there is a topic on ES on this.

It is to do with the location of the sensing wires adn the fact that they arent located at teh shunt. I had the move my shunt sensing wire so that it was at teh shunt instead of further in teh curcuit.

If you email Justin he can lead you to a picture or something about where to move the wires to.

Ill go look now and see if i can find the post my one is a different controller to yours thou.

Scruff

[NeilP]

Scruff, I understand exactly what you mean, but wonder if you are not talking about changing the position of the sense wires from the stock wiring from an Xlyte controller fitted with a plug for their own brand APM ( the Xlyte CA)

It all depends on what Rui is seeing when the bike runs , if it works correctly under heavy motor load and not under light load, it is unlikely that this is the problem in this case.

I could be wrong though,

[Scruffoid]

here is where we where talking about it.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=38353

Scruff.

I think Justin has told the makers where to place the wires but they arent doing it. I guess they dont really need to LOL. it only became an issue once we started using the AUX voltage plug as normally you just zero the current reading and the CA draws the same current every time. Now we are changing the current draw on teh fly the the wrong wiring shows up.

On my controller the sense wire was tied together with another Voltage line so it was sensing in the wrong spot and once i move it to the shunt and re zerod the CA it worked properly and went positive.

[NeilP]

Yes,that makes more sense..and one of the other thoughts I had after I posted last, but could not think of to post when I last posted...at 0330 while in bed from the iPhone...

It is to do with the location of the sensing wires and the fact that they arent located at the shunt. I had the move my shunt sensing wire so that it was at teh shunt instead of further in the circuit.

Scruff

You were almost correct..it is not the sense wire, but the power feed to the CA that is in the wrong position. If the sense wires were in the wrong position, the CA would not give any sensible reading, as all the CA does to measure current, is measure the voltage drop across the sense wires and then convert this to current , knowing the shunt resistance.

SO it is not the shunt sense wire you need to move, it is the main power feed to the CA from the board. make sure you get it on the correct side of the power switch though, otherwise the CA will stay on when controller is switched off

[Scruffoid]

LOL no worries took a guess what it was called.

[Architectonic]

RE: mounts, I used this:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/bicycle-bi ... 16?item=38 ($6.50 metal camera mount)

In general I find this light is more usable than my Trustfire TR-3T6 torch (has three cree XM-L LEDs, and 3x 18650, torch lens), and I was sick of loose plastic mounts that flex too much. (maybe there is some sort of gun mount that might work for 0.5 KG torches).

[rocwandrer]

Anybody tried one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/?cmd=ViewItem&item=160938728364 ?

The listing is terrible (e-packet delivery, a parts list that doesn't include the driver, etc), but the product pictures look decent for the money, and the driver supposedly accepts 24-90v input...

I have two decent lights already (always have a backup at night in the woods, I've been hit by deer twice, and on a moonless night with no light, walking speed is still a little iffy without any lights). Running a light off the primary battery pack is appealing in that then there is some stealth in the fact that there is a reason for running wiring. What do other people end up with for this? A magicshine type light with a step down for the voltage?

Edit: this post was made (without adequate searching, evidently) as a new thread, and moderated into this thread, hence the incongruity.