Syk-48-100w problems

[michael.i@me.com]

Hey everyone. First time poster here, and I have a problem I am hoping that someone here can help me.

I ordered and received the following http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130696276204&ssPageName=ADME:X:eRTM:US:1123#ht_7313wt_948

The only thing different from the listing above is that I had them mount the motor in a 20" wheel for me, cause I am putting this on a folding bike with 20" wheels.

I put on my bike with my 48v battery, connected all the wires, and then the problems arose.
When I turn the key, the headlights and horn work, but the wheel does not spin.

I started unhooking and re hooking up wires, when I plugged the throttle wire back in, the wheel spins at full speed. I have no control with the throttle whatsoever, it just spins at full speed.

If I leave it connected and turn the key on and off, it does not start spinning again until I unplug and replug the throttle wire.

I am not sure what else I can do, is it possible that the throttle is broken, or is this more of a problem with the controller?

I do have another throttle from another kit, but I don't know what wires do what, as the colors are not the same. I will attach some pictures if I can figure out how.

[michael.i@me.com]

Apparently you can't post pictures from an iPad, so here are some from my macbook.

The colours of the throttle with that is not working, the wires are RED, BLACK, WHITE AND BLUE.

The colours not the other throttle I Have are BLUE GREEN RED AND YELLOW. Can anyone tell me how to rig the old one to the new one?

[michael.i@me.com]

I have posted a question in another section, think it may be in the wrong area, so I am posting a link to the other post so that maybe I can get some help

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=40328

Thanks in advance

(moderator edit: moved to your original thread. Please do not create multiple threads for the same thing, and be patient as it could take days for people with information you need to find your thread and post in it.)

[michael.i@me.com]

I would like a wiring diagram for he external connections on a v power syk-48-100w 1000watt bldc controller.

I have one that I'm having trouble getting going, and I would like to troubleshoot the problem

Thanks

(moderator edit: moved to your original thread. Please do not create multiple threads for the same thing, and be patient as it could take days for people with information you need to find your thread and post in it.)

[docnjoj]

You have to have a multimeter so you can determine which wires are power and which wires are signal. The fourth wire is usually full battery voltage for the LED's. I will guess that on the old throttle red is +5 volts and yellow is ground. Then one of the other 2 is the signal wire. You can test this with a meter. It is not clear if your old throttle is working now? The other problem is : Are your other wires hooked up correctly. Did the seller provide the controller and motor and throttle? We need some more information to help.
otherDoc
You need to have controller plugged in to the battery and the motor wheel off the ground for testing. You should have the wires coming out of the controller to test colors first and then try the combos.
one more thing. use the throttle very gently, just open it a little bit first. I'm sure others will chime in with more/better information soon so be patient.

[d8veh]

My guess is that red is +5v and blue ground. You need a 5v souce like a phone charger or USB charger or similar, or take a chance and connect those two to your controller. Then check between the blue and each of the other two to see which one varies with the throttle. The other one will be for the LEDs. Don't test for the LEDs first with battery voltage because if you get the wrong one first, you'll blow the hall sensor. On the controller side, red is 5v, black is ground and white is signal - as you probably know.

Your original problem indicates a faulty throttle. The controller needs zero throttle to initialise. That's why it doesn't work until you disconnect and re-connect it. There's either a magnet dislodged or a short inside it. If you can, have a look at where the wires are soldered on to the hall sensor. The white one may be touching the red - perhaps it's unsoldered.

[michael.i@me.com]

ok, thanks for the help. I super appreciate this.

First off, I bought the whole kit off of ebay, I posted a link, so I would assume that everything should work together.

The kit uses plastic plugs that only go in one way, with one mate. There is no way I can plug them in wrong. This is true for every connection except the motor. the phase wires, which there are three of are colour coded, and the wire coming from the controler are also colour coded. I assume that they are correct as when I replug it in, the wheel spins in the correct direction, just without control and at full speed

I will open up the throttle and check the wires for breaks, faults, and lose connections maybe tonight or tomorrow after work.

Thanks so much for chiming in, I hope that you guys can help get me going. I will post some more pictures of the whole bike once I have it running and have all of the wiring cleaned up.

I have another question as well. I purchased a LED Amp meter for this project, and am curious. does it matter if it goes in the red or black wire from the battery? or will either do?

Cheers!

Michael

[michael.i@me.com]

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The controller blink twice, it meant the controller Circuit in the brake state. The supplier told me that check the brake connect whether correct.

This is what the seller sent me from china. th english is poor, but I think they are trying to tell me that there is something wrong with the brake, problem is, I don't have it hooked up, so that shouldn't be an issue.

What do you think?

PS, I took the throttle apart, and couldn't see any obvious problems with it. I did meter out the wires and found the ground, and the 5v, and a 48v line. but then my battery in my meter went dead, and I had not yet written down what wire was what. so, I need to buy another 9v battery for my tester, then I will write down and report back my findings.

Any other tips/tricks or things I can try, please throw them at me.

Michael

[michael.i@me.com]

Here is the latest from my seller in china

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one blink, we have no check out the issue yet.
2 blinks meant the controller Circuit in the brake state.
3 blinks meant Constantan to LM358 parameters are incorrect or open-circuit.
4 blinks meant
Alpha
the Failure under the bridge drive to the output MOS.
5blinks meant the Failure on the bridge drive to the output MOS.

Does this make sense to anyone?

[dnmun]

ok, got here from your other thread. the blink pattern is fairly straightforward and looks like the same as the wilderness energy controller blink code.

did you ever get a voltmeter and test the controller to see if it was getting voltage?

did you find the 5V on the red wire for the hall sensors and on the throttle? if no voltage then maybe the controller is not getting power to begin with.

did you connect the small red wire on the controller input to the battery voltage?

[michael.i@me.com]

No, I kind of gave up on the Chinese controller for now. I bought an Infineon controller paired with a CA and matching throttle and everything works wonderfully now.

I have another hub motor that needs a controller, so I may fuss about with the Chinese one some more then, or I may just buy another Infineon. It has been a treat using the new one, and the integration with the CA for a dashboard is nothing short of brilliant. Probably the the I will go honestly.

So yeah, pretty much a paperweight for the time being. Thanks for the reply tho.

Michael