fab job i am just about to start a big hit fsr frame its all ready to tig weld up but am looking for a bit of help what setting did you use for tigging tig gass settings. and the settings onthe tig welder to weld the alloy on your frame what size tig rod did you use and the size alloy tig rods
this will be a big help in getting me started on the welding thanks roger
Hi Rodger, for the gas setting, you'd want to be around the 12-14 litres per minute mark. From memory i used 3.2mm welding rods.
As for power settings, it really depends on material thickness's and joint type etc. You could use anywhere from 80 to 160amps depending on where and what your welding at the time. If your welding the thin bike tubing to say 3mm sheet, maybe start on 80 - 90amps and see how you go. Remember to aim the majority of the gun's heat to the thicker of the two materials.
If you haven't done much or any tig welding before, it will pay you to get some decent practice in 1st so your more confident when it comes to the frame. I found welding the ultra thin bike tube to the 3mm sheet quite hard as the bike tube always wants to blow out.
Love those torque arms, they are fab! i like to see thought and care being taken over every aspect of a component rather than just making something functional, but i would have used ti
Yeah i always like to give a bit of extra thought and take a bit of extra time to finish a part nicely too, its good to have pride in your work. Haha, i wish i could have used ti! I got the (certified) mild steel for free so i'm happy lol.
The new frame is going to be a complete build, all drawn and jigged so i can reproduce it if it turns ok good. I bought a Sarecen dirt jump alloy frame for the bottom bracket and headset tube, it came with some bonus parts, seat post and clamp, head set, handle bar stem, hollow teck bb and a chain device all for £16. But i am not going to give any details about the frame style/design away untill it is finished
Don't keep us in suspense for too long dammit!
I can't wait to see what you come up with, it should be worth the wait (no pressure at all! ) That was a great score for 16 quid, makes for a cheap start to the new project! So no hints at all eh?
Kepler wrote:Excellent job on the torque arms. I am presuming no fancy CNC mils used here, just an angle grinder, drill, and file. Makes the job even more impressive in my opinion. Always look forward to your next post. Inspiring stuff.
Ta Kepler. Yep you guessed it, my cheapy drill press, small fine file, 5" grinder with an ultra thin cut-off wheel and an old M6 tap.
Kepler wrote:And Trench, hurry up and start your new project. Paul will be finished soon and I need another top notch build to follow
I second that, pull your finger out Simon!
doc007 wrote:Timma, how did you make your torque arms? Im very curious bc I have to cut a similar design. I only have access to an angle grinder, hand drill, and dremel. Do you think torque arms like yours can be made with those tools? If so, what kind of cutting discs should I be looking to get for the angle grinder and the dremel. Special bits for the hand drill?The thickness of the metal will have to cut through is 20mm thick. Any tips would be great!
Doc007, I drew up the design on paper, scribed the pattern on the steel with a sharpened TIG tungsten then did most of the drilling required.
Next was to cut out the basic shape with a 5" grinder using a 1mm thick "ultra thin" cut-off wheel. Next was to finish the shape with a medium grit flap wheel on the grinder. Next was marking and drilling the hole for the pinch bolt. Start with the drill bit size required for tapping the thread then go back and drill the no threaded side with a bit that will clear the bolt. Lastly it was just a case of slight sanding with the flap disc to get the torque arms to sit nicely in the dropouts then lightly filing the edges to clean it up.
You'll certainly be able to make your torque arms with the tools you have available, you'll just need patience and care.
Patience while cutting so the cut-off wheel doesn't jam in the 20mm thick material and try to spit the grinder back at you and care to make sure you cut the axle slot nice and square all the way through.
For cutting wheels, i'd suggest using a 1mm ultra thin cut-off wheel to help slice through easily. You'll no doubt chew through them so buy atleast 4 of them.
Apart from that, what SnOwchyld said is also sound advice.
Just please please be very
carefull cutting through the steel, 20mm is very thick and the grinder may jam and either stall or at worst, spit back at you.
Good luck and let me know how you get on with it.
Well i got the bike finished late last Friday night but not without a slight inciddent -
This is what happens when you try to connect up a harness at 1:30am in the morning after working on a bike since 7am the previous morning lol.
One pair of obliterated bullets later i had some soldering to do to get the bike running for our camping trip the next day (sat morning)....
Which is just what happened. A 3hr drive later we were setting up camp with a few cold ones. The next morning we took off for Mel's 1st ebike ride and my 1st ride on this bike. To say i was impressed is an understatement... Seeing peaks of 5kw on the CA, it pulls like a train compared to the 2000w peak Cyclone i had on my last bike!
Ofcourse these are only peaks and most of the time it seems to hover around the 1 - 2kw mark which helps keep the temp in check. By the end of the ride, the hub was warm but definately not what i'd call hot.
Mel is now hooked on ebikes, she loved the little Mac motor and put it to good use after a shy start to the ride after seeing me wheelying on it before the ride lol.
On the low power setting she managed to pull peaks of 830w. She is so impressed with it she's now going to sell her quad motorbike 'cause she reckons she won't want to ride it after sampling the EV grin! The only downside is I'm now getting hounded to get her BigHit frame finished asap. Its a downside i'm happy to endure!
Overall i'm stoked with the bike, it handles really well, pulls wheelies very
easily to clear trail obsticles, the CA isn't too hard to read on the move and the HT isn't too thirsty. Top speed on flat ground with the 2.7" knobby tyres is about 58kph which is plenty for the single track trails i do.
Weight came in at 35kg.
All thats left to do is: implement my copy of Tench's running / charging plug system, add another 5ah of lipo, check the 18fet settings, get some Shimano Saint 4 pot brakes, weld the guard under the BB / controller, get the frame powdercoated and replica factory M3 sticker set applied then just enjoy the ride