Kudos Build II

[3nslav3]

I would recommend you a rock shox sektor

I also own one (140mm travel 9mm axle) very pleased by it! before that I had a Reba for 4 years and it never failed on me (air fork), it made me a rock shox fan

the sektor is also available in 150mm version with 9mm axle, 15mm axle, 20mm axle and they all have adjustable ridehight (2 positions for the coil version, no idea for the air version)

I personally wouldn't put a 200mm fork on a frame that is made for a 160mm max fork (and the bike will look like it would be riding uphill all the time)

[kudos]

Hmm, the 2008 and 2009 Marz 888 ATA have adjustable travel 160 - 200.

Seem to be pretty hard to find this for sale though.....

Anyone know where I might pick these up?

Kudos

[kudos]

Well my 55's finally turned up.

The never ending failure of bike parts suppliers: ordered with 48 hour delivery, turned up TWO WEEKS later

Considering removing the decals for that all-black look.......





Kudos

[3nslav3]

Perfect!!! this will badass
this fork should be able to take a load of beating

I'm glad you didn't go for a 888 ATA WC from 2008 / 2009 , I used to own 1 of these when I was doing some downhilling a few years back and they are cr*p,
leaking air cilinder after a flat drop, buttons that broke off, they need a load of servicing once it start to give problems, it will never end until you trash it
but the 55 is perfect!

where did you order it from?

[kudos]

ChainReactionCycles.

To be fair it's the first order they messed up. There was problem with the address they put on the original order so it got sent back to them. This combined with the bank holidays and weekends meant it took forever to get to me.

Kudos

[kudos]

Ok, Can someone tell me how I should go about setting up the bike for my size etc.

I'm currently thinking, set the seat height first so I can touch the ground when still sitting on the saddle, though one foot or two ?

Then I need to decide if I need an extended stem/handlebar with risers etc.

I could just see what feels comfortable, but if there's a guide I could follow it would be useful.

Cheers,
Kudos

[kudos]

Can anyone help please, I just received my Shimano 105 5700 53T crankset and tried to install it on my bike but it doesn't fit



A bit difficult to see but the outer 53t chain ring fouls against the bearing for the swingarm if I try to push it all the way in.

What is left on the other side:



This isn't enough spline to attach the pedal because the splines on the inside of the pedal dont start at the edge:



I don't know what I've done wrong, I presumed I could install pretty much install any crankset, but maybe there is a limit to the outer chainring size I can use with this frame?

Looking at Mountain Cycle's site, there were two suggested specs for building up the bike and the cranks listed were SRAM 1400 2x10 and Aerozine X-12, having checked these it would appear the largest tooth count is 42T on both. Can I take from this that I cannot use a crank with greater than 42T ?????

Is there any way I can get my current crankset to work in this situation???

Any help gratefully received !

[winkinatcha]

Hey Kudos,

I've been trying to find a reasonable guide to setting up a bike to fit your size on the web, to no avail... having watched a couple of high-level bike mechanics fit bikes to people I think their is an art as well as science to it, and even what you are using the bike for is highly relevant.

Anyways, I did find this some time back and found it an informative read on generally what you want, ergonomically...

http://www.junik-hpv.de/assets/download ... People.pdf

that being said...

I am fairly tall (185cm) with long legs. I find when I am relying on my legs and human power as part of the electric bike mix, that I prefer to have my leg Almost fully extended, from arse to pedal (not extended to lockout of the knee, maybe 5 degrees off) so I can get consistant grinding power out of my legs, and I'll just pop of the saddle and ride the pedals if I really want to power, or if I want to use my legs as shock absorbers going over bumpy ground.

This basically means that seated and stationary, I can touch the ground on one side on tip toe.

I find this seat height no problem for light MTB type stuff as well, BUT if you are going to be doing fairly hard core Mountain biking, you probably want the seat a bit lower, not so much for pedal power but control so you can get your weight more over the back wheel, if going downhill or jumping n such.

Personally, I tried to set a bike up so that I am lightly grasping the handlebars, in a standard riding position, without having to lean down on my arms or pull back on the bars to be comfortable.

If I am going road-oriented, I want the bars lower so I can reduce my wind profile, if I am going off-road I prefer the bars higher so I can throw the bike around more...

But anyways, I think... pedal power, .. look to how extended your legs are and adjust for that, for comfort/ergonomics, ensure weight is more on arse than wrists. this may mean adjusting headset.

Hope that helps

Joe/winkinatcha

[kudos]

Thanks for your input Joe appreciated.

There are so many variables I think it's always going to be a case of fine tuning after the event.

I've given up on the large 52T chainring, it's not going to fit, I've just ordered a Shimano Saint single speed 42T
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=12907

I hope this fits, these parts are expensive!

Kudos

[winkinatcha]

Mate, when this build is finished it will be truly Beautiful

[HombreNeuvoElectro]

Kudos, great build

Like those wheels, did you build them yourself? What guage spokes and hubs?

I see you could not get the larger cranks installed but will a 42T not dramatically reduced the speed at which you can have meaningful peddle input?

[kudos]

Mate, when this build is finished it will be truly Beautiful

Thanks ! It's been a long slog so far and still a long way to go, trying to enjoy the journey....

Kudos

[kudos]

Kudos, great build

Like those wheels, did you build them yourself? What guage spokes and hubs?

I see you could not get the larger cranks installed but will a 42T not dramatically reduced the speed at which you can have meaningful peddle input?

I wouldn't have a clue how to make a wheel I'm afraid, bought the wheel ready built from a supplier:

These Halo SAS wheels look bombproof.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/halo-sas-pro-26 ... mtb-wheel/

They have really cool hubs which are hybrid quick release and 20mm axle.

Yes 42T will have a massive effect but I don't have much choice with this frame. If the Saint unit fits OK, I might also try something larger like a 45T, even though that will probably mean changing the BB aswell.

I'm just going to pedal less by the look of it!

Kudos

[Cargo_Tom]

Looking great so far mate

Do get rid of as many decals as possible, A bike looks much better without them, in my opinion.
-Tom

[kudos]

Looking great so far mate

Do get rid of as many decals as possible, A bike looks much better without them, in my opinion.
-Tom

I agree, although I don't know the best way to get the decals off, mayabe I could just use a hairdryer to heat them up then try peeling them off.

I might even paint the steatpost all black too!



Kudos

[HombreNeuvoElectro]

The bike is looking stealthy Kudos. Following your progress with interest.

Thank you for the measurements on the Hookworms. I have checked my frame and i think i would be almost impossible to fit them with my 26" wheels. The only option would be to use 24" wheels.

Has the new crank arrived yet?

[kudos]

Has the new crank arrived yet?

Should arrive tomorrow with a bit of luck.......

I see you're in Dubbers. I buy most of my stuff from ChainReactionCycles.com who seem to be based in NI, so you should be able to get your kit quickly from there, where as I have to wait 3 days

Kudos

[kudos]

Wow. I can't believe how complicated it is to fit a crank.

I thought if I just stuck with Shimano Hollowtech II I can't go wrong........

I've been trying to figure out for a while why when you buy a 68mm/73mm bottom bracket it comes with three 2.5mm spacers. I understood that if your bottom bracket shell was only 63mm you could put a spacer either side to pad out the cups by 5mm to make 73mm. But that still left that pesky third spacer, what can it be for?

My XTR bottom bracket from ebay didn't come with fitting instructions but the above logic seemed sound.

But I have just found out that even if you have a 73mm BB shell like my frame does, you still need to add a spacer on the drive side any way (making 75.5mm). I did not do this when I installed my BB so I'm hoping this won't have caused a problem.

But it doesn't end there.

I've just received the Shimano Saint crankset - it came with an 83mm bottom bracket, damn!

So you might think no big deal, just add another two 2.5mm spacers either side to pad it out another 10mm to take the 73mm up to 83mm.

But no, not according to here:

http://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomme ... &pagenum=2

'The spindle length on an 83mm crankset is actually 15mm wider' requiring 3x 5mm spacers !!!

How the hell are you supposed to know this stuff ??

But it doesn't end there.

You're not supposed to pad out the bottom bracket cups because of something called the q-factor what ever that is, instead you need axle spacers......

So now I'm faced with trying to make this crankset fit with a load of spacers or send back my second crank this week.

..and then there's the mysterious 'ring' that's supposed to fit between the crank arms and the face of the bottom bracket, only these rings don't come with the bottom bracket and don't come with the crank and don't seem to be available individually ?!?!

Like I said, Wow.

EDIT: ONe 83mm to 73mm adapter kit ordered:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... delID=8243

Kudos

[kudos]

I haz cranks.

Took quite a bit of fiddling, BB removal and buying of chainline spacers, but ended up using a 5mm spacer on the drive side and a 5mm plus 3 x 1mm spacers on the non-drive side.

It's pushed the chain line further out then it should be for normal biking, but put it's pretty much bang in line for my smallest rear cog which is the only one I'll be using anyway. I won't know for sure until I get the rear motor on though.





My cranks didn't come with an end cap for the non-drive side, thanks CRC. I think you have to use an end cap to pressure the BB bearings, much like the headset.
Will this do it:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... delID=5095
Does anyone know?

Took far to long to get my front brake calliper mounted. The instructions from Shimano showed the post mount upside down, back to front, mounted to the wrong holes and incorrectly sized - quadruple fail!



Kudos

[kudos]

Nukeproof Pedals.







EDIT: Got my NonDriveSide End Cap from CRC



Kudos

[kudos]

I've just put my Crystalyte e-brakes on as a test fit and they're a little bit cheap & nasty looking.

Does anyone know if there are any other off-the-shelf Crystalyte compatible ebrakes available?

Cheers,
Kudos

[kudos]

Well my Mac 10T kit finally turned up this morning and:



I know everyone loves their Macs which is why I'm buying one but I must say coming from the Crystalyte kit the quality of finish on the electrics isn't quite what I was expecting.

Surely these wires should at least have some heat-shrink or something to protect them ?

I don't have a soldering iron so it looks like it's a trip to my friends house to see if we can get this wire re-attached, oh and also get andersons put on the controller power cables, also something I wasn't expecting to do.

Once this is done, I can transplant the HS3540 from my everyday commuter to the new build.

Kudos

[winkinatcha]

Hey mate, most kits I have come accross don't heat shrink these connectors, tho it is something I do do to the builds I make...

If you look into the connector from the connecting end, you will see that the pins have little tabs that hold them into the connector,..

using a paperclip or some such, you can press these tabs in to remove the pin (slides out towards the wire end) and recrimp/solder the wire bac onto the pin, bend the tab back out and reinsert the pin n you'll be fine.

joe

[kudos]

Thanks Joe, bit of a pain but I suppose not the end of the world, I should be able to get this sorted pretty quickly then.

Cheers,
Kudos

[kudos]

Quick Update.

I've removed my xlyte kit from my commuter and started to put the new Mac kit on it.

I ran into the rotor bolts going through the case problem, but hopefully this is sorted now. I have plugged everything in to make sure the wheel spins and seems OK all though I haven't done this under load yet.

Anyway I digress, back to Kudos Build II:

I accidentally put my hookworms on in opposite directions, ie with the logos etc on opposite sides, which got me thinking are they directional ?
After doing some searching I can't find a definitive answer, I can't see a rotation direction arrow on the sidewall so can only presume they are not directional ?

The rear is looking quite mean now. That 203mm rotor is nearly as big as the motor.





Kudos