Hi. I would reconsider using brass. Have you calculated resistance on brass? I did and it is less than aluminum. Second is weight, trust me it adds a ton to the pack, bad for EV use. If you going to use brass flat bar to connect cells in 3,4,5P configuration which i bet is meant for cars and bikes you will have problems regarding conductivity. I tested mine with 211amps and my blocks which are just clamping tabs get worm. Solitons and zillas go beyond 1k amps
Just my point of view.
The brass won't be taking any of the current - the 1.6 mm copper plate goes on top to clamp the tabs down - this is what will be taking the current. The brass is simply there to provide good tension when tightening the copper down. Brass is a pain to work with, but that's why I'll get a fabrication shop to do it for me. The other benefit of brass is that it can be soldered down onto the pads on the PCB to hold it in place. Then, traces can be run from the pads to serial sockets.
As for weight, yes, I know it gets heavy, but the brass component of my car battery will really only be adding 3 kg to the whole 25 kWh pack. The copper will be an additional 7 kg, so 10 kg all up. I don't think it will matter much on a 950 kg car.
the Electric RG250 - Dual Agnis, Kelly 1200A controller, 6 kWh of A123 cells from Cell_Man and a shitty old chassis from 1985
Top speed 180 km/h, max current 600 A @ 100 V.VoltronII
Say no to spaghetti junction LiPo! Assembled Hi-power LiPo packs of any size!Come on Casey! If you want prototype racing, throw your leg over something with lithium in it