Cruxzia,
cruzxia wrote:Hi All
Attached is a photo of the flange nuts, there are no washers needed and they do not loosen, I torque them to 45 ft lb.
The nuts are 17mm wide and threaded all the way through, so there is a large thread surface area.
Nut1.jpg
Nut2.jpg
Cruzxia
Thats a great idea with the flange nuts and grooving the axel adjuster plate face. I touqued my axel nuts to 34 Ibs which is about 46nm. It's holding but I haven't used the breaks hard through the woops yet. I will be buying some axel flange nuts and grooving the adjuster plates on both sides. Looking at your pics, there is a huge gain in the flange nut thread surface area contact. With this surface contact gain, 50-55 nm shouldn't be any problem at all with concerns to stripping the threads from over tightening. The next time you have your rear wheel off, could you snap a pic of your drilled out nylon ring mod?
Robohead,
Like you I have a new bomber, #143. Yesterday I had my first "hard ride" on it. I spent the first 4 rides taking it real easy to break in the pack. I noticed when i started going north of 950 wh (about 12 AH), blipping the throttle caused my voltage to drop down to about 71.5 volts. Like your bomber, my LVC is also set at 70 volts. When everthing was said and done, I went 29 miles (48 KM) and used about 1030 watt hours. This was a mix of dirt trails and fast street riding with a few short hills between 6-9%. If I am only road riding and keeping my velocity between 20-25 MPH, I think I could get 50 miles out of a charge.
Kepler, thanks for posting your bomber manual. I noticed on the Vboxx portion of your manual said refill with gear oil. Mine says refill with grease. I believe there was some lost in translation verbiage on my manual. Your excelleration test was awesome. Listening to your motor, it even sounded different. I could hear the difference over the wind. Is there a chance you could make have someone film you from a dead stop taking off? I am betting you would be out of sight very quickly. BTW, do you know if the rear shocks on the older bomber chassis are sprung different than the newer ones? After I changed the preload of my spring, (adjusted all of the way down with only 3 rows of threads showing, I lost almost all of my static sag. Maybe had an inch. So backing off the preload to about the middle on the shock body has given me the 2.5-2.75 of rider sag which I wanted. To my surprise, the bike doesn't seem to handle any better than it did with the 3.5" rider static sag I had before. Just a little stiffer when seated. Also, my bike doesn't seem to turn any quicker which it should now because the rider static front fork head angle is now steeper. The only thing I am willing to bet on is that I am less likely to bottom out now from a hard landing than before. On the bottom right leg of the RST One fork, there is a blue nob. I think I counted 8 or 9 total adjustments. When the adjustment is turned clockwise all the way out, this allows the fork to extend after compression faster than it does when turned all of the way in clockwise...normally. And then you can fine tune rebound to preference. With my fork rebound set from 1 out to 8 out, the return rate is the same. I cant tell a difference at all. Is yours the same way? If it isn't I may, have a bad cartridge valve. If it is, this is an RST handeling trait then. Sorry to keep bugging you with the questions. One other thing, riding the bomber everynight after working out with kettlebells I has caused me to dropped 8 pounds (3 Kilos). Riding the bomber on the flat under my own power is like doing hill sprints. If I keep this up, I wont be anywhere near 260# 118kg for long. Kind of funny how something this fun is also good for the body. Tell John to advertise Stealth Bikes in the US as long term cure for our ever increasing obeisty problem.
Rix
I think Stealth should certainly look at improving this.