KevXR wrote:Looking at the conversion kits on eBay, the price difference between a 250w - 24v and 1000w - 48v is only $60. What are the reasons for buying a lower powered electric hub?
IMO, either ignorance, or to stay in compliance with ignorant laws.
Weight of the motor?
A motor can be run at any voltage as long as the controller will handle it. Increased battery for more voltage will also produce a longer range if operated at same speed.
Let's say the current battery budge is for 36v battery pack. Will I be sorry buying a 48v system and running it under powered? Can a 1000w system be run on lower power and stretched out like a 500w motor?
A 48V controller won't work with a 36V battery, because the default LVC of a 48V battery is ~42V. OTOH, a 36V controller will normally work with a 48V battery, but would allow you to over discharge the battery as its LVC will be set to 30.5V.
I am looking at building two low cost systems that are the opposite.
1. Commuter - can go 15 to 18mph for 20 miles round trip. Some moderate hills. What is the minimum that doesn't make peddaling seem better.
2. Trail bike - can boost up 2 miles of steep hills, then tuned off and not used. Think booster rocket. Lighter is better.
1. Any kit with ~500wh of battery.
2. Geared hub With 3lb rc lipo pack.
Mongoose 26" FS MTB bike $99, yescomusa.com 48V 1000W rear hub kit $276, Hua Tong 72V 40A controller $35, 10ah 24s lipo $275=40+mph, range=45 miles @20mph