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[adrian_sm]

Have a look at this example it uses interupts and calculates RPM, that should be most of what your code needs to do.
If you need to know road speed you will also need a normal bike computer wheel sensor for wheel rpm.

http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Main/ReadingRPM

Let me know if you need any help

- Adrian

[Erikjan]

This is fun i have do some test for praktice, and make some simpel test programs.
And it works. Tomorrow i go write the real program.

I think i can use the program example you linked to.
The only thing i need to do for my "blackbox" is write a program that output 5V when rpm is >1 and 0V When rpm is <1.

Maybe it is better to connect the throttle and controller to the uC also, and write a bigger progam then i don't need a relais.

Thanks

[adrian_sm]

Probably best to start you own thread on this, as this is getting off topic now.

But I agree I would attach the throttle and controller and let the arduino decid on the correct throttle out signal to create.

- Adrian

[Erikjan]

I start a new topic here -> viewtopic.php?f=2&t=31702&p=459032#p459032

[vin791]

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=33064

thats a thread i created for my issue. i thought posting here would be a good idea as well.

i got some 10k audio taper pots so its more of a ramp up control instead of a linear control. either way, i couldnt find small Ohm trim pots at radio shack and i realize i can put larger resistance pots on there and just dial them back but if i want a potential 0-100% limit could i just put the one 10k pot in there? also, i saw something about opening the controller and just adding a pot in parallel with the resistor thats already in there so adjust for more resistance. if i just did that i wouldnt need anything else in there right? i will be using 2 controllers spliced to one throttle with diode limiters and im thinking i can have a box w/ 2 knobs and 2 leds (for standby) one for front motor, one for rear motor. so in theory i could set say the front motor so be barely receiving any power and the rear motor to receiving full power if i like (even though i'd probably just have them relatively the same) and if the pot is turned off (theres a built in switch) it would just default to the stock resistance because the other resistor will still be in-tact. would this work?

[hillzofvalp]

I'd like a circuit that will let arduino change the resistance amongst 4 power supplies in order to change the voltage. I'd like to increase each by equal amounts.. I was thinking a digital pot, but there seems to be an issue with my board in that it has SPI taken from wifi.. so I need a switchable spi to the digital resistors... Maybe there is an easier way

[amberwolf]

Check Maxim's digipot section for a Voltage Controlled Potentiometer app note.

[migueralliart]

Can someone help with a schematic of a mosfet being used as a switch between the battery pack and the controller with a single switch. 36V and 72V if possible? it has to withstand 1500watt and 30 amps at 72V with the minimum voltage drop possible.

[amberwolf]

Look up using a MOSFET as an "ideal diode". That's probably how you could most easily use one.

Otherwise, any basic MOSFET switching circuit will work; you just need a FET rated for the voltage of the whole pack, when totally fully charged, and/or the highest regen voltage your controller could possibly put out--whichever is greater.

As for the system wattage, it doesn't have anything to do with what the FET has to deal with. You just need to know the current you will pull thru it, and multiply that times the FETs' RDSon at the gate voltage you will be driving it with, to get the actual wattage the FET will have to dissipate, and thus how much of a heatsink (if any) you will ahve ot have on it.

[hillzofvalp]

I'm looking for some traction control code for a RWD gokart with dual, independently driven motors. The idea would be to improve handling in corners... track GP karts tend to hop around a lot on corners.. varying the rear wheel speeds might actually act as steering when there is low front traction.

[A_Boring_Username]

Hi everyone

First post on the forums woohoo...

anyway, I recently got myself an ASEAKO central drive ebike (i believe it's a Tonaro bighit). I asked the Australian distributors for the schematic and they sent me this. It's a bit average but hopefully it helps someone.

[adrian_sm]

Nice user name

I recently got myself an ASEAKO central drive ebike (i believe it's a Tonaro bighit).

From the schematic, I think this is the mob that make them. Well they are the ones that bothered to put them through the EN15194 test regime.
http://www.caticgz.com/FirstItem.php?fdSortid=AAAO

[A_Boring_Username]

From the schematic, I think this is the mob that make them. Well they are the ones that bothered to put them through the EN15194 test regime.
http://www.caticgz.com/FirstItem.php?fdSortid=AAAO

Thanks, that looks like it. Currently the throttle seems to just be a switch (i.e. all on or off), and the pedal assist takes too long to turn on and off, so I think a controller upgrade may be in order. Any suggestions?

[adrian_sm]

Probably worth starting another thread before we derail this one with non-schematic controller discussions.

But I have been very happy with my 6fet from Lyen. Running upto ~1.5kw power levels with no issues. But never used PAS so can't comment.
http://www.lyen.com/

[EDIT] And here is it's schematic, jsut to keep things on topic.
download/file.php?id=82843

[okmate]

Hi guys i have a project in wait and looking forward to connecting it all up i will have a 48v battery pack but would like the battery wired up so that i can use my existing 24v charger can anyone suggest a schematic for me thanks guys

[boo]

Hi guys i have a project in wait and looking forward to connecting it all up i will have a 48v battery pack but would like the battery wired up so that i can use my existing 24v charger can anyone suggest a schematic for me thanks guys

i assume you use 4 X12V battery. Connect them series to form 48V pack. you can consider this configuration. Fuses are for protection in case the switch got stuck.

[okmate]

Hi guys i have a project in wait and looking forward to connecting it all up i will have a 48v battery pack but would like the battery wired up so that i can use my existing 24v charger can anyone suggest a schematic for me thanks guys

i assume you use 4 X12V battery. Connect them series to form 48V pack. you can consider this configuration. Fuses are for protection in case the switch got stuck.

thanks mate thats great could you tell me what amp the fuses should be also what type off switch should i use is that a double pole rocker switch

[boo]

Current rating for the fuses will be around 50% more than your charger rated current and less than 1C rating of your battery. Switch is a double pole double throw, and can be a rocker or toggle switch, preferably a 3 position ( right or left for battery selection and Off at the center). Sorry I don't have the exact part numbers.

[HypnoToad]

It's a bit of a long shot but would anyone happen to have the schematic to Ezee 36v brushless motor controllers?

I managed to damage a few tracks on the PCB, and it would be far easier with some schematics.

Also, how easy would it be to change or disable the upper voltage limit for the battery?

This seems to be the main chip, and there are 5 holes in a row next to it which could be a connection to a programmer?

[RichiePA]

Wow what a useful thread cant believe I've overlooked this for so long.

I've already posted this elsewhere but it is probably of some use here, this is a sort of battery circuit schematic for anyone who wants to build a lipo battery pack with Methods HVC/LVC parallel boards.

battery circuit inc hvc lvc boards.pdf

(112.98 KiB) Downloaded 86 times

The .pdf shows the best detail if you need to zoom in on any part of the image.

[lc_60]

acid wrote:I build a 100V/100A switch with a precharger:





The FETs are IRFB4110 from an old controller, 3 in parallel and the forth one to precharge the controller over a 100 ohm resistor.

edit:
This is the final result. It charges the controller with 1A for half a second. That should be enough time to connect the battery.
For 48V I would replace the 4.7u capacitor with 2.2u.
The z-diodes protect the FETs from blowing and the voltage range is 29-100V now.

I'm building an e-bike and I'd like to put a precharger circuit. Your circuit is very good and I'm triyng to make one alike but in your diagram I can't see where is the way out of the B-.
You have a way in where is V1 84V but then the circuit closes around only interrupted in the key switch (j1 Key=A), but I can't see the way out. Can you indicate where it is? I guess it could be near the 6 but I'm not sure.
Thank you

[lc_60]

I've already been answered in the topic Battery Connection + On/Off Switch,

Tanks.

[steveo]

Can anyone post a schematic for the newest generation of infinion pcb controllers?

Thank you

[billyjones454]

Looking for a schematic for a thermometer with alarm. I don't want/care for a display. Just an alarm that can be mounted discretely that will go off at a certain temperature.

Also a simple LVC that my throttle would be routed through. Again, no display required.

Thanks!

[amberwolf]

Looking for a schematic for a thermometer with alarm.

http://www.google.com/images?q=schemati ... with+alarm
some have displays some don't, don't knwo anyting about any of htem.

Another option could be as simple as an resistive thermal sensor in a voltage divider driving base of transistor that pulls donw ground on a piezo buzzer; you'd have to work out values for things.

See Methods HVC/LVC thereads for the schematics to the LVC/throttle control.