FS Frame + Cromotor + Lipo

[hillzofvalp]

I am probably going to do something like this to my covers before I begin watercooling.. Because watercooling is going to require some serious down time.

I will probably just do one side because I don't have a gear puller right now. Which is the recommended puller again? Someone posted it to me but lost track

[gensem]

The thing about that motor the cooling, along the lines john is talking about, its the first ive seen commercially.
Ive been reading you thread for a while good to see the testing/ evolution, so decided the Dh frames are a strong option
Im havent decided on forks double vs single clamp, single clamps will give a lighter build of course
I read you thinking of going single clamps yeah?

I started simple and now I really that if you dont overbuilt it ll break (and potentially hurt you) when you keep pushing amps.
Longer swingarms and lower CG are mandatory for big power numbers.
I tought about a single clawn fork to use in my regular fs frame, but now that im using greyborg frame I ll use a DNM dual crown adapted to dual disk brakes (overkill as usual).

[gensem]

I am probably going to do something like this to my covers before I begin watercooling.. Because watercooling is going to require some serious down time.

I will probably just do one side because I don't have a gear puller right now. Which is the recommended puller again? Someone posted it to me but lost track

Any puller that is big enough to hold the covers will be more than enough.
I wouldnt use such big holes coz im scared of road debris in sao paulo. Also it would be better if you could create air flow through the stator gap.

[Emoto]

[quote="gensem"I started simple and now I really that if you dont overbuilt it ll break (and potentially hurt you) when you keep pushing amps.
Longer swingarms and lower CG are mandatory for big power numbers.
I tought about a single clawn fork to use in my regular fs frame, but now that im using greyborg frame I ll use a DNM dual crown adapted to dual disk brakes (overkill as usual).[/quote]

Thats right longer wheel base helps a lot, this helps on my supermoto [modified] dynoed @ 62hp rear wheel, but having the front wheel come up is also mandatory imo.
What is the model of your michelin rear tyre @ 23" od

Hillzofvalp i envy you having access to milling equipment.i use to but not atm
Just a thought i would have smaller holes more evenly distributed

[hillzofvalp]

I was thinking of using some type of mesh to keep particulates out. A little dust doesn't hurt. I would have thought that larger hole is better... And think that it should be reconsidered. Mst people haven't tested large because most people don't have the capabilities to make these modifications

[Emoto]

More holes evenly displaced would radiate heat better at rest , as you know temps can rise then with no movement/ flow of air.
Saying that experimenting is a good thing, so go for it, put a temp probe on her for before and after results, do you know how much a replacement cover is.
Not thinking about the problems with dust and stones, it would be nice to mill it like a mag wheel ow and then get it anodised

[gensem]

24fet controller Hi CFM fan




Biffed traces




Hoping to have something running in a couple weeks (29/07 probably)

[hillzofvalp]

I am genuinely excited for you. Can't wait to see how air cooling helps on the motor and your take on a hole patttern

[gensem]

I forgot to ask...

The controller is fitted with 24 4110 fets and I dont plan to go over 160a main;
Should I mod anything else on the controller?

[John in CR]

I forgot to ask...

The controller is fitted with 24 4110 fets and I dont plan to go over 160a main;
Should I mod anything else on the controller?

When i ventilate controllers, I direct the airflow where it's needed, just like I try to do in a motor, because the path of least resistance typically isn't best, eg Once the board is in the case I use a doubled up piece of shrink under the full width of the board to stop air from flowing under the board. On the component side of the board I mostly block off the mostly open side. I put the intake holes near the FET bar(s). My goal is to force the air flow from the fan toward the FETs as much as practical, since they're what is generating all the heat. It can make a huge difference too. On the Super 36 I got from SteveO, he had really swiss cheesed the intake end cover plate, and air flowed freely, but the air coming out didn't feel very warm even when the case near the FET bar holding bolts what quite hot. I blocked off the intake holes except near the FET bar, and the air coming out got noticeably warmer. Then I did my usual air dams inside and the exhaust air got warmer still, so I know both portions of the approach are beneficial.

You also have to be sure that you have sufficient intake area, especially with radial fans which usually can't put much pressure at all without high power like a ducted fan. The way I make sure is to run the fan with the end all the way open and with the end plate on to be sure the flow volume doesn't change. Feeling it with your and and listening to the fan sound have worked sufficiently for me.

When it's for a bike to be used in the elements, I use short pieces of 3/8" tubing for the intake and angle them down and forward. That way water or debris would have to go uphill to get in the controller, and there's just not enough flow velocity. Another benefit is that I can direct the inside end directly at the fets. It does take more cross-sectional intake area though, since the tubes themselves represent a flow restriction.

[gensem]

I did a quick test and the air flow is really high the way its mounted already, might be able to get better flow but i dont think its needed right now.

have a look
http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/technologies/electromechanical/thermal-management/fans/Pages/1146398-GM1204PQV1-8A.GN.aspx

any other mods that are easy to do on the controller?

[hillzofvalp]

Careful dispensing of artic silver CPU paste on the heatsink bar. It is conductive, so getting sloppy can present problems. I applied it to my 18fet and found the case near the FETs markedly hotter. I assume it helped. Little bit goes as long way.... Spread it out thin with an old credit card and wipe away excess. Clean everything with alcohol first

[gensem]

Now I understand what Vladimir was talking about... im utterly tired but i think i got a glimpse.
Give us a faster motor with even more copper! im eager to a use small mx rim...

[gensem]

[hillzofvalp]

I'm a little jealous. But why didn't you decide to buy a vintage lightweight motorcycle?!



way cooler!

[gensem]

I have 3 reasons:

1. Would need a plate and insurance
2. Would need even more power and battery
3. I have the greyborg warp frame for almost a year already

[hillzofvalp]

I hear ya

[gensem]

A little mod to the borg frame to fit the controller better...

[hillzofvalp]

were you planning on runnign ductwork out somewhere for intake and exhaust of the controller?

[gensem]

were you planning on runnign ductwork out somewhere for intake and exhaust of the controller?

not really... i ll only have a mesh in the outtake the intake should be fine.

[gensem]

just had another issue with a stem that got stuck inside the frame... i think i ll have to dremel it out because it just wont go.

[gensem]

After struggling for a while I was able to take the stem out, i mean what was left of it.
Now im thinking of a way to make hole perfectly rounded... any ideas?

[briangv99]

After struggling for a while I was able to take the stem out, i mean what was left of it.
Now im thinking of a way to make hole perfectly rounded... any ideas?

You could buy an adjustable reamer, do a search on Ebay. I used one to clean out and clear weld spatter from the seatpost tube in my Warp frame.

[SweKen]

If im not mistaken we pay around 30cents of a dollar + taxes for a kw

Just for comparison where i live in Sweden its 1.55 SEK/Kw that equals 0.23 American cents for one Kilowatt. Tht includes tha taxess and stuff. And we consume abot 13000 Kw per year, fifty percent in winter due to the heating pump, fifty percent in summer due to a swiming pool pump. So it would be in the neighborhood of 3000 USD per year.