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Ypedal wrote:Jason27 wrote:Wrong forum for selling stuff michael..
what he said.. moving thread


Ypedal wrote:the picture YOU posted has your website on it...
rogue marketing tactics = fail.



dogman wrote:Perhaps even more importantly, those examples have a bms that if functioning, will prevent the over discharging and over charging that often is the cause of a LiCo cell flaming.
Plus, of course, those are likely LiMn or LiFePO4 as well.
A hard box is always good, for preventing the other possible cause, physical damage.
Personally, I don't get it why people must store a volatile cemistry like LiCo attached to thier bikes. Mine is in use on the bike, and if not, it's stored in a safe place with some fire containment. I use ammo boxes with vents cut in them. The vents point into my fireplace. When experimenting with repurposing RC toy batteries for a larger ebike pack, it's good to treat them like they will burst into flames anytime.

eva-michael wrote:But all of them are cased aluminum case or the little frog case. It's a very important way to avoid fire. It will isolate the lipo from large oxygen and outside. I will also advise to avoid lipo battery pack with pvc tubing or packed by any flammable material. Use ABS or PE material if you insist a tubing strture for lipo. They are flame retardant material.



dogman wrote:Yes. I just advocate hard shell, or at least more abrasion and puncture resistant battery protection for the prevention of punctures and other damage when the bike is crashed, or just knocked over.
So in that way, a box prevents fires. Don't puncture is in the rules for all chemistries. It matters little if oxygen is excluded, and ALL my battery boxes have substantial vents to let in cooling air to a bms, and to allow flamable gasses to escape if needed. No need to can a battery tight and turn it into a sealed container full of expanding gasses. Canned round cells usually still have a venting mechanisim, which may or may not let gasses out fast enough.
Shorts are another possible cause of fires, so it can be wise to protect some of the wiring on EV's with chafe resistant sleeves. Particularly where a battery wire exits a box, or may be vulnerablle on the route to the controller.


mr.electric wrote:I always look at automotive products to examine best safety practices. Take the example of a Prius battery.
Metal case
Bms
Mid pack fuse
Precharge circuit
Contractor on positive and negative lead
That stuff combined with plenty of testing and good software equals a safe pack.
Ebike packs are good when they are set up well. No bms or an exposed Bms and wiring is not very safe.
Look at the batteries on Panasonic ebike motor drives or a good quality cordless drill. You really have to work at it to even expose a wire or board to day light.
The thing that is missing for ES members is a safe pack that has a good discharge rate.
I would like to see a 5- 10c fully encased full bms pack that has been tested before it hits the market.

eva-michael wrote:mr.electric wrote:The thing that is missing for ES members is a safe pack that has a good discharge rate.
I would like to see a 5- 10c fully encased full bms pack that has been tested before it hits the market.
For LiFepo4 battery pack, I think it's still very difficult to have a 5-10C without sacrifice of cycle life. Cycle life is key. EV will not be good vehicle without a good cycle life of battery. Considering cycle life issue, we always remind our diy clients not try to make high C rate LiFePO4 or they will lose money. Generally even headway and Thundersky(winston) will perform nicely and very good cycle life during 1-3C application.


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