MeanWell Mods - S-150-24

DrkAngel

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MeanWell Mods
MeanWell Mods - S-150-5
MeanWell Mods - S-150-12
MeanWell Mods - S-150-24
MeanWell Mods - S-150-48
MeanWell Mods - S-240-48
MeanWell Mods - S-350-48

See- ES Wiki MeanWell Mods for more


I recently came into a large supply of new MeanWell, (Mean Well), switching power supplies.
Enough, and cheap enough, that I don't mind sacrificing a few on the alter of R&D.

S-150-24 up.JPG

Specs:
Mean Well S-150-24
150w max continuous output
24V - adjustable from 19.5V - 29.8V (As tested on 2 samples)
6.5A max continuous output@24V -
24V x 6.5A = 156W
No fan - Open grid shell - convection cooling
Factory Specs


Problem:
Rated at 6.5A, but will surge-sustain much higher, burning components

Solution:
Restrict the amp output -
The "R33" resister is the key to regulating amperage.
Top CB.JPG
For testing purposes, I soldered 2 wires of a 2s balance plug to the ends of the R33 resister.
Then plugged a multi-turn 2K, (then as high as 10K), Pot (potentiometer) into the balance connector.
Then I lowered the voltage to minimum and applied "load".
Removing and measuring the pot's ohms at each 1/2 amp mark.
(Pot must be removed to measure! "In circuit" it is laid parallel with 2 other resisters.)
With the following results:

8.5A = OEM
8.2A = 10K
8A = 8.1K
7.5A = 4.6K
7A = 3.3K
6.5A = 2K
6.0A = 1.65K
5.5A = 1.3K
5.0A = 1K
4.5A = .81K
4.0A = .63K

Wider Amp adjustment:
Disconnect, or remove R33 & R38.
Replace with adjustable" pot"
Working with 12.6V LiPo pack through inverter

Amps ...... Ohms
1A ... from ... 70 ohms
2A ... from ... 175 ohms
3A ... from ... 287 ohms
4A ... from ... 392 ohms
5A ... from ... 500 ohms
6A ... from ... 610 ohms
7A ... from ... 715 ohms
8A ... from ... 855 ohms
9A ... from ... 920 ohms
10A .. from .. 1050 ohms = 1.05 k
11A .. from .. 1140 ohms
12A .. from .. 1293 ohms
13A .. from .. 1357 ohms
14A .. from .. ? ohms
15A .. from .. ? ohms
16A .. from .. ? ohms
17A .. from .. ? ohms
18A .. from .. ? ohms
19A .. from .. ? ohms
20A .. from .. ? ohms
etc.

A 2K pot should provide a, near to, 20 amp capability.
A 300% amp increase!

Need lower voltage high drain rig to determine higher amps.

* Not precise ... used analog amp meter.

Widening the voltage range:
By changing the value of the Voltage pot, I was able to lower the output range substantially.

1K = 19.5 - 29.9V (oem)
2K = 15.1 - 29.9V
5K = 9.8 - 29.9V
10K = 6.6 - 29.9V
20K = 4.6 - 29.9V
100K = 2.9 - 29.9V

As I will demonstrate later, there can be great advantages to lower voltages.

Note! The higher value pots (100K etc) only allow a very "coarse" adjustment at the high voltage end. Harder to fine adjust.

Raising Voltage?
Not tested ... or recommended!
This model has 35V caps ... a fairly strict limitation!

= 150 Watt! =
To be safe and effective, amperage should be adjusted as voltage is altered.
Volts x Amps = Watts
Watts should equal, or be slightly below, 150 watts.
29.4V x 5.1A =150W - 7S Li-ion - 2 in series * = 58.8V 14S Li-ion
28V x 5.35A = 150W
27.3V x 5.5A = 150W - 2 in series * = 54.6V 13S Li-ion
26V x 5.77A = 150W
25.2V x 5.95A = 150W - 2 in series * = 50.4V 12S Li-ion
24V x 6.25A = 150W
22V x 6.81A = 150W
21V x 7.14A = 150W - 2 in series * = 42V 10S Li-ion
20V x 7.5A = 150W
18V x 8.33A = 150W
16V x 9.4A = 150W
14V x 10.7A = 150W
12V x 12.5A = 150W
Note - modding below 11V demonstrated occasional ... "unreliabilities".
10V x 15A = 150W
9V x 16.67A = 150W
8V x 18.75A = 150W
7V x 21.42A = 150W
6V x 25A = 150W
5V x 30A = 150W
4V x 37.5A = 150W
3V x 50A = 150W
2V x 75A = 150W

Yeah ... I'm gonna try pushing everything to the limits ... and then a little further!

(Will test to confirm)
*In Series
"In series" is when the neg of one power supply is run through the positive of another - combining their voltages.
Important!
When run in "series" the DC "negative" must be isolated from the 110AC negative ... on all but the primary unit!. Otherwise, the DC positive from the primary unit will "short" through the AC negative on the secondary unit.

'The negatives are usually connected through the "ground".
3 points of "ground" to remove.
The external ground - terminal 3.
The green wire, at F1 near terminal 3.
The bottom of the circuit board, under screw hole next to fuse. (Cut circuit traces, or insulate with ... fiber, or nylon, washer and screw?)

The case can be "properly" grounded by connecting the AC ground wire to the removed green wire directly.
Lowering Voltage
Lowering voltage could take advantage of higher amperage.
Without removing components, amperage is regulated below ~8Amps.
R33, combined with it's neighbor R38, have a measured resistance of ~865ohms.
Removing both and replacing with a 2K pot allowed me to produce a 14V 10A supply.

(1.1K setting. Will compile a chart for higher amperages.)
14V x 10A = 140W
14V 10A in series with with 2 paralleled 28V 5A = 42V 10A 10s charger.
14V 10A proofed up.JPG

Fan Mod?
With a listed 85% efficiency, the 150w power supply should produce a maximum of 22.5w of heat.
Considering the large heatsinks, I would think this to be adequate, so long as convection (air) is not restricted.

Component View

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Component Locations

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MeanWell Mods

S-150-5
S-150-12
S-150-24
S-150-48
S-240-48
S-350-48
 

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Is it the same item as this one?
http://www.aliexpress.com/product-fm/388829819-CE-approved-meanwell-style-24V-power-supply-S-150-24-wholesalers.html
 
cwah said:
Is it the same item as this one?
http://www.aliexpress.com/product-fm/388829819-CE-approved-meanwell-style-24V-power-supply-S-150-24-wholesalers.html
"Meanwell Style" a cheap copy.
Might work OK ... but inferior quality and unknown mod potential.
 
Would this one be better?
http://www.aliexpress.com/product-gs/452523340-150W-48V-switching-power-supply-Guaranteed-100-CE-approved-S-150-48-wholesalers.html

100% approved!
 
For determining "amps" I "Jerry-Rigged" a 20A ampmeter through a large Inverter, into multiple multi-speed fans.
file.php

I buffered output through a large almost dead 12V battery.
Fan-inverter "startup" "surged" beyond the amp regulated power supplies limit, causing an inverter "fault" condition.
Battery buffer handled this surge.

I have tested as high as 10A!(at 14V) So far.

Unfortunately, my rig is limited by the inverters 11V limit.

DrkAngel said:
= 150 Watt! =
To be safe and effective, amperage should be adjusted as voltage is altered.
Volts x Amps = Watts
Watts should equal, or be slightly below, 150 watts.
29.4V x 5.1A =150W
28V x 5.35A = 150W
26V x 5.75A = 150W
24V x 6.25A = 150W
22V x 6.81A = 150W
20V x 7.5A = 150W
18V x 8.33A = 150W
16V x 9.4A = 150W
14V x 10.7A = 150W
12V x 12.5A = 150W
10V x 15A = 150W
9V x 16.67A = 150W
8V x 18.75A = 150W
7V x 21.42A = 150W
6V x 25A = 150W
5V x 30A = 150W
4V x 37.5A = 150W
3V x 50A = 150W
2V x 75A = 150W

Yeah ... I'm gonna try pushing everything to the limits ... and then a little further!
So , I will have to figure another, lower voltage , rig ... with a larger ampmeter.
(I have 50A and 200A meters available)

Recommendations on low voltage - high amp drains appreciated.

I'm thinking an old electric heater, connecting at various length points along the heating coil?
 
Residuality recompense - could not entirely delete post.
Timex.gif
 
Purrfect items for my 7S Li-ion & LiPo builds.

7S 29.1V 5A Charger

View attachment 1
7S 29.1V 10A Charger

7S charger D.JPG
Modular components add great flexibility!
 
Been too busy to do much more testing.

Just acquired 2 new MeanWell S-150-5's.
Will use for a component by component comparison with my S-150-24's.

Looking to find clues to current & voltage mods ... resister values , etc.

Also planning a "series" build ... to test electrical isolation requirements etc.
 

Attachments

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HumboldtRc said:
Any progress on lowering the voltage output? And raising the amps?

Amp adjustment:

Disconnect, or remove R33 & R38.
Replace with adjustable" pot"
Working with 12.6V LiPo pack through inverter

Amps ...... Ohms
1 ... from ... 70
2 ... from ... 175
3 ... from ... 287
4 ... from ... 392
5 ... from ... 500
6 ... from ... 610
7 ... from ... 715
8 ... from ...855
9 ... from ... 920
10 .. from .. 1050 = 1.05k
11 .. from .. 1140
12 .. from .. 1293
13 .. from .. 1357

Results integrated into #1 post and esWiki.
 
Kudos on the Mean Well design.
After many "faults", shorts, overamperages etc, my test model still survived.
An unplug - replug, "reset", unit to operating mode.
Did blow the fuse once.

Still need to test for low-voltage high-amperage capability.
And.
"Series" mode capability.
But, so far, I'm very impressed with it's durability and adaptability!

The S-150-** model has variations capable from 5V - 48V, with hopefully only minor component adjustments.
I have 2 S-150-5 models coming.
Allowing component by component comparison.
S-150-24 is somewhat limited by 35V caps ... but I never recommended over voltage for this model, anyhow.
 
Amperage adjustment adding 10K pot to R33. - Expanded

For testing purposes, I soldered 2 wires of a 2s balance plug to the ends of the R33 resister.
Then plugged a multi-turn 10K Pot (potentiometer) into the balance connector.
Then I lowered the voltage to minimum and applied "load".
Removing and measuring the pot's ohms at each 1/2 amp mark.
(Pot must be removed to measure! "In circuit" it is laid parallel with 2 other resisters.)
With the following results:

8.5A = OEM
8.2A = 10K
8A = 8.1K
7.5A = 4.6K
7A = 3.3K
6.5A = 2K
6.0A = 1.65K
5.5A = 1.3K
5.0A = 1K
4.5A = .81K
4.0A = .63K
 
educate me please, those meanwells are just.. power supply's?
How can you use those as chargers, i mean, to finish the job, arent they putting out CC with CV all the way? that doesnt top off the cells well imho?
What makes them shut down when charge is reached or you are using batt alarms etc and keep watch?
Or timer on AC plug or.. basically, could you cover the basics of how it's a reliable lipo charger?

thanks :)
 
xmasta said:
educate me please, those meanwells are just.. power supply's?
How can you use those as chargers, i mean, to finish the job, aren't they putting out CC with CV all the way? that doesn't top off the cells well imho?
What makes them shut down when charge is reached or you are using batt alarms etc and keep watch?
Or timer on AC plug or.. basically, could you cover the basics of how it's a reliable lipo charger?

thanks :)
Switching power supplies ... yes.

Considered a "bulk" charger.

If modded ...
charger supplies Constant Current (amps)...
till optimal voltage (adjustable) reached ...
then current tapers off as (optimal) Constant Voltage is attained ...
then maintained at optimal voltage. = optimal V zero Amps, unless battery self discharges, in which case a trickle current will apply.

Cells are "maintained" at the regulated voltage you decide is optimal.
"Topping off" a battery is a methodology typically applied to SLA, Nicd, Nimh.
A higher than optimal voltage is used to force in more electrons faster, then the charger idles.
Not recommended for Lithium cells!

The downside is that if your cells are "unbalanced" they will recharge to the same "unbalanced" condition.
Unless...
You charge through a BMS\PCB\PCM with "balance" function.

Hmmm ....
If bulk charger voltage is set at slightly below optimal pack voltage, running a smaller balance charger in parallel might give you a high performance charger with balance capability!
The combined amperages will be available till nearly full, then the balance charger will "take over" applying the final charge with balance function.

A properly balanced battery pack will, typically, "bulk" recharge to the same "balanced" condition.
Exceptions might apply to ... deep discharging, excessive discharge rates, overcharging, damaged packs, etc.

Any new pack, or charger, should be monitored during initial charges!
 
I am in the process of building a 42V 7A charger.
For my 10S 36V Li-ion packs.

In "series", 2 units (S-150-24) set to 21V 7A will run at 42V. (41V for certain of my Lipo builds.)
I plan on a unified construction using 1 power cord and switch.
With integrated LED voltage meter.

I believe that I will be able to, electrically, "isolate" the secondary unit, while maintaining a proper ground on the case! (A great safety improvement over previous attempts!)

Should be able to post progress-results tomorrow ... unless I get parts I've been waiting on ... for other projects.
Or if I actually have to do any "real" work.

Similar constructions using these power supplies.
12S 44.4V 6A (44 Magnum 50.4V)
13S 48.1V 5.5A (54.6V)

3 in series could push to nearly 90V!
 
DrkAngel said:
I am in the process of building a 42V 7A charger.
For my 10S 36V Li-ion packs.

In "series", 2 units (S-150-24) set to 21V 7A will run at 42V. (41V for certain of my Lipo builds.)
I plan on a unified construction using 1 power cord and switch.
With integrated LED voltage meter.

I believe that I will be able to, electrically, "isolate" the secondary unit, while maintaining a proper ground on the case! (A great safety improvement over previous attempts!)

Success!

When run in "series" the DC "negative" must be isolated from the 110AC negative ... on all but the primary unit!. Otherwise, the DC positive from the primary unit will "short" through the AC negative on the secondary unit.

'The negatives are usually connected through the "ground".
3 points of "ground" to remove.
The external ground - terminal 3.
The green wire, at F1 near terminal 3.
The bottom of the circuit board, under screw hole next to fuse. (Cut circuit traces, or insulate with ... fiber, or nylon, washer and screw?)

The case can be "properly" grounded by connecting the AC ground wire to the removed green wire directly.


42V Series.JPG
External case will be grounded through "add-on" switch plug module.
Alternates:
Attach to lower right screw.
Leave rear of green wire attached, ground through green wire.
If bottom trace cut, attach to lower left screw.

Just a test model.
Finished product will provide.
Single power switch
Integrated volt meter
A fan?

PS I set up as 41V ... prolonged pack life! ... ?
 
My preliminary test demonstrated a 29.8V top adjustable voltage on this model - 2 samples.
Since this handily provides 29.4V, as a 7S li-ion charger, I saw no reason to attempt a higher voltage adjustment.
Combined with the limitation of 35V caps, I recommended against any attempt of raising the voltage limit.
However, just found an example with a 29.3V limit!
OEM specs are 28V upper limit.
Well ... that, just won't do!

So ... I will attempt a voltage upper limit mod.
I intend on exampling a 10-15% increase, being careful to keep it below the 35V limit of the caps.

Most must wonder why I am going to such lengths ... testing and modding this particular model of MeanWell?

Well, 1st off, I got, literally, piles of this model.
2nd, most all these mods are directly translatable to any of the S-150 series.
(With modified resister values!)
Further ... these mods should be fairly applicable to any of the MeanWell S series.
S-150-xxx
S-201-xxx
S-320-xxx
S-350-xxx
I have S-320's and S-350's that I will be test-modding ... after I finish with the S-150's.
I'd rather make the "basic" mistakes ... before ... I move onto the larger models.

All results will be integrated into #1 post and esWiki - Mean Well Mods S-150-24
 
Received 2 S-150-5.
150w-5V-30amp, rated.
Oem voltage adjustment is 4.28V - 5.28V.
I replaced the 1K voltage trim pot with a 5K, for the purpose of manually balancing my pack at 3.50V.
5k = 2.16 - 5.28V
To create a capacity map of my Lipo cells.

I purchased them in hopes of comparing directly with the S-150-24.
Unfortunately, the 5V have a 2005 version circuit board, while my 24V have a 2007 version.
They are very similar but have definite differences.

Sadly, it seems unlikely to there being any simple voltage upgrade, for the S-150-XX models.
The transformers seem to be wound for a specific voltage, with transistors buffered through caps, used to reduce voltage.

It is likely that my S-150-24 voltage reduction, with accompanying current increase, would at some high current point, output somewhat "dirty" DC.
OK for charging but poor for electronics.

Update! - R25 mod is capable of raising voltage to near 35V cap limit!
 
S-150-24 update

Ran into a "partial failure".
Running a 150w 24V MeanWell for prolonged periods @ 29.4V 4.95A, (145w), for a full year, starting smelling a "bad smell".
Felt the unit and noticed a nicely cooking tingle - warmer than comfortable.
Looked through the grid work and noticed no chard components.
Took it out of commission and replaced with a unit limited to 4.56A (1k resistor added to R33 resister).
Turns out the AC pos terminal ... had a poor connection ... arcing? It chard-partially melted the terminal block.
Added Al-Cu conductive grease to terminals, of replacement, and tightened a bit tighter.

Still intend on adding a fan, no 12v spot to jump into.
2 watt 510 ohm resister dropped voltage to ~12V through a small fan but the resistor got hot enough to discolor itself.

Found a bargain solution -
DC-DC LM2596 Step Down Adjustable Power Supply Module CC-CV Output DC 1.3V-35V - $1.65
Up to 2A 12V output from my 29.4V PS.
Great for 12V accessory or 3.6V LED lights also.

Only about 1" x 2"

680205294_o.jpg

Do an eBay search for LM2596 for similar items
 
Dont know where else to post this so thought i would post it here..

A while ago I acquired 2x24v meanwell power supplies that were broken.. no output, no light 'led' and apparently dead.
I was told that they were being used as battery chargers and failed due to being reversed connected to the batteries ( no bang or pop ) the psu was not powered up when they failed.

I finally got round to having a look at them and the problem was the diode circled in the picture had gone partially short circuit, it was a weird one for all intents and purposes it still looked like it was still a diode when measured in circuit , it was only after removing it that it still read as a diode one way but very near a dead short the other.. replaced the diode and the psu can back to life so a very easy fix in the end but did lead me a merry dance for a while until i removed it to measure.
 
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