World Domination, I just got my self a 3d Printer!!!

Some nice bits appearing.

There might be a small market for something I'm after. The 90v lights available have a bracket that is rubbish. The type meant for hidden kitchen cabinet carcase work. The unit is a nice alloy heatsink, but the bracket was stamped from some zinc plated mild, covered in tooling marks. It was never meant to be seen, and makes an otherwise good product in to something unacceptable. But there is no other choice on the market.

Some good pics in this post http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=35095&start=175#p744686
 
Nicely done on the 3D motor mount! I wonder how well it's been holding up in trail riding conditions?
 
kfong said:
Nicely done on the 3D motor mount! I wonder how well it's been holding up in trail riding conditions?


Im very keen to see myself!! Even just regular riding conditions doing some drops off foot paths ect..
I am yet to order the rubbery PLA that stuff could be extremely handy.
 
Kin said:
I have purchased from stores though with minimum 10lbs, $10/lb, so a quite affordable $22/kg. What I got at that place was great quality.

Kin, do you mind sharing which vendor you got the $10/lb good quality ABS from? I've only been ordering from ultimaker (for fear of headaches from cheap filament) and the ABS has been excellent and very consistent, but it is in the $20/lb range.
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-Isolator-Cut-Off-Power-Kill-Switch-100A-12v-2-Keys-Waterproof-Cover-/360601089017?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53f57ff3f9

any chance you could make me a bracket for one of these, i could email you A drawing of what i want. then you could give me a price.
adam
 
I have recently got more plastic, PLA, I would be interested in making some light brackets, however PLA will get soft around 50c - 60 c, so if printed on PLA you would want to keep the bike moving to keep the lights cool, i believe i have some of those lights already. it would be awsome if people uploaded some sketchup files, i can print and post some pics, if quality is acceptable i can charge for the plastic and shipping...


I have not printed a battery box for myself yet due to problems with my problemmatic printer, I have been working on mine to get it working well, also have a greater understanding since when i first started this thread. Easier to troubleshoot issues...
My biggest issue with my printer now is the printbed. The guys who designed my printer were on drugs for thinking a plastic printbed was a good idea, i have a dip in the middle of my print bed from the warping... needs to be changed to glass
 
Well i did some troubleshooting with my 3d printer, spent the best part of this weekend testing all the components, reflashed it as well
looks like on my .4mm nozzle had a shorted resistor, i pulled it apart and rewired it all. tested, nozzle kept on getting clogged for some reason, could not resolve the issue with that nozzle

So changed to the .7mm nozzle, also rewired in a new resistor on it, 6.8Ohms, used a heap of kepton tape to prevent shorts and insulate the hot end,
Also fastened the hot end into the carriage so its tight and wont move, seemed to have a bit of a wobble previously.
now my printer is working prefectly for the moment, using the .7m nozzle its very easy to get a good extrusion flow on all of my PLA,
Another thing i like about the .7mm nozzle, it builds things in half the time also, good for building large objects.


I really need to design a battery box, im so lazy.
 
Hey guys, iv finally done some mods to my printer, not that much,


- Changed my hotend, to J-head mk v, It has better airflow through the barrel.
-changed thermistor
-changed heater,
-Changed heater block,
-added ceramic insultion as well as kepton

Now im printing in nylon, Tried line trimmer line, works quite well after dehydrating the nylon line, cost me $5.80 for 250 grams
its so much more stronger than pla and abs, quite easy to extrude as well, been using the line trimmer line on 260c
Taulman 618 nylon can be extruded at 220c, and you get much nicer results, less warping, you can also dye the stuff to change its color



Im also buying another printer, iv decided to go with this company mbot, going to buy the mbot cube II
I was thinking about building one but im a bit lazy,

- getting a new lipo pack soon, so going to test out this nylon with a full battery bay on a mtb, should be fully sick,

Ill post some pics soon of test prints.. i can print zip ties !! woohoo




Comparing the mbot cube II to my current printer, it should give much nicer prints at hi speeds a slightly bigger build size + heated bed and 4 times faster than my current setup.
Its a full metal body, compared to my acrylic one now. doing about 20mm's on my 3dstuffmaker printer, should do 100mm's + on the mbot cube II
 
nechaus said:
getting a new lipo pack soon, so going to test out this nylon with a full battery bay on a mtb

i can print zip ties !! woohoo



Sorry Nechaus, but this instantly came to mind :p
 
hahaha :D

Yes, now that i am using nylon as a filament, im going to actually take the time to design a battery bay
im due for more lipos soon, thinking of making 10 ah 20s battery bay for the center triangle.


Previously just printing with pla, it was not really worth printing it.

id be willing to print someone a free nylon battery bay if they can design an open source universal battery bay, designed to be printed in sections.
 
Nechaus,

What are you printing on as your base and what settings (speeds, layer thickness, temps, etc)?

I just started printing with nylon myself- maxpower trimmer line I got from Amazon. This stuff is amazing, MUCH stronger (and more flexible) than ABS. It's also significantly cheaper; I get ABS for around $20 a lb and this stuff is right around $7.

I've had moderate success printing on sanded glass smeared with different variations of PVA glue (elmer's white, Uhu glue sticks, etc), but it seams to really adhere to the Garolite LE phenolic composite board. Problem with the garolite is getting some parts off- I still need some time to play with various settings. Others have reported decent results with canvas fabric epoxied to glass- I've yet to try this, but I imagine it would work well for parts less prone to warp.

I think the majority of my structural e-bike parts (brackets, clamps and what-not) will be made out of nylon in the future, super strong and vibration/impact resistant. I think this stuff is the perfect choice for a printed battery box, in fact, I've got some designs in the pipeline.

Another side effect of this "cheap" material is I find myself printing some of the rediculous and whimsical parts posted on Thingiverse- here's a Buzzsaw vase:

View attachment 1
nylon vase 003.jpg

This was printed with the "spiral vase" option in the new slicer and took just over an hour to complete (.25mm layer height, 245c, 60mm/s perimeters).
 
Thats awesome man!, well done,


That's such a good price, and your getting awesome results! your layers are coming out well,
I only print around 10-30mm's,.7mm nozzle, .5mm layer height using nylon, going to try a .4mm nozzle soon, I have to also dry the hell out of it b4 use, I use a cheap hair dryer and wood box, for a couple of hours, surprisingly the hair dryer can run that long with out burning out haha, i need a food dehydrator or something.

Last night i printer an x carriage using timmer line, used a fan, did not warp at all, but must of cooled down the nozzle to much and i had a few layers that did not bond, put it on b4 bed last night.
I am currently printing on painters tape, no heating on the bed, it sticks exceptionally well to it, the only problem if it warps, it lifts the tape off the print bed.
Using cheap painters tape, had more of a papery feel to it, where the expensive painters tape i have, feels like a very waxy surface, bonds to both but better to the cheaper stuff.
In fact its bonding alot better than PLA.

I prefer printing nylon over PLA, just have to make sure its all ventilated, With my new printer, should get it in a few weeks, it will be all enclosed and can suck out all fumes.
apparently Taulman nylon thats designed for 3dprinting is much safer to print with over line trimmer line as it may have different chemicals.




My plan is to get a another printer, and then rebuild this current printer from scratch,better bearings, aluminium structure, thicker rods, make it rigid and heavy, bigger steppers, New extruder design, i cant stand my current extruder, it only works well for slow mm's prints. I was going to kind of copy the aluminatus design.
 

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lasers will be the way to go for sure, i wish they were cheap now,

This is a pic of some nylon i got thats made for 3d printing, should be able to produce some tough man battery bays.
im waiting on my new printer, this is 1.75mm, I did push a bit through my hotend, it melted nicely at 220c,
 

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Tinto said:
Charge Bikes, now printing in titanium.

i liked it.
I think that method of 3d printing is something like Selective laser sintering or melting.



This is a long way off for home users tho. safety, health, cost, reliability ..
 
Got some of that Scotch-Weld that DoctorBass was raving about and needed a plunger for it:

IMG_20130903_212736_preview_featured.jpg


http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:145873

Also made a chain guide for my mid-drive:

CIMG1029_preview_featured.jpg


http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:118578
 
I love the plunger ( should be an accessory available with the doc torque arms!)
Made this little charge port holder for my new bike recently. Not as badass as a chain guide but it covers up some wiring and makes plugging in EASY.
charge port.jpg
 
- spinning magnets
looks like it would make things much easier, but id imagine the 3d files need some post clean up, make sure the correct dimensions ect..
im very keen on trying this tho.


-mikebikerad
That is the best charge connector iv seen yet,
Very very cool, You can get thermal color changing abs plastic now, could be quite neat for your charge connectors to see if they are warming up
 
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