World Domination, I just got my self a 3d Printer!!!

bee you who seem to know everything about 3D printing.. which one do you advise for ebike and able to be shipped to france? Did you say I need one that can print nylon too?
 
cwah said:
bee you who seem to know everything about 3D printing.. which one do you advise for ebike and able to be shipped to france? Did you say I need one that can print nylon too?


sorry to but in,
You can use Nylon, Nylon trimmer line for regular weed whackers, polycarbonate ( myth busters use this for their " bullet proof protection" )
and the most common filaments are PLA- and ABS, both easy to print and to start of printing in
There is also really flexible PLA, wood filament, Brick filament,


For ebikes, Nylon-ABS-PLA- PC- All good to use, PLA is prob the most hardest rigid plasitc, while nylon and PC would have to be the winner in strength, But all plastic's have different properties and will react slightly different to heat,

You tend to get alot more shrinking with NYLON, Prints warp,(big parts) If your going to print purely in nylon, You want a hi temp hotend, like capable of 300c, and a heated enclose build chamber to prevent this from happening.
 
Haiti is a small country in the Caribbean Sea, they struggle under widespread corruption and their economy has been in a shambles for decades. A 3D printer is now being used by an NGO health organization to make medical equipment that is either unavailable, or when it is, the difficult distribution channels make items incredibly expensive. The first item produced was an umbilical-cord clamp...more items to follow:

http://makezine.com/2013/10/18/3d-printing-umbilical-cord-clamps-in-haiti/
6.jpg
 
It's like someone has broken starfleet's prime directive!

That's quite an odd situation though, that they can get in a 3D printer and consumables yet can't get these basic plastic bits. As for the example they give, I'm surprised they don't use clothes pegs!
 
spinningmagnets said:
Haiti is a small country in the Caribbean Sea, they struggle under widespread corruption and their economy has been in a shambles for decades. A 3D printer is now being used by an NGO health organization to make medical equipment that is either unavailable, or when it is, the difficult distribution channels make items incredibly expensive. The first item produced was an umbilical-cord clamp...more items to follow:

3D printer for medical equipment !! :x
That kind of crap waste of money would definitely stop me donating or supporting that NGO instantly.
There are so many more useful things that the money could be spent on..such as vaccines, water purifiers, etc. :roll:
 
Stiffler from american pie has started his own line of 3d printers lol
This one is actually pretty awesome
http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/117421627/the-peachy-printer-the-first-100-3d-printer-and-sc
 
SM, ..i dont doubt it happened,...... but doesnt it make a nice media friendly tech' story !!
How many of that type of unusual plastic product are the people of Haiti in need of compared to other issues.
In a crisis situation resources have to be prioritized,
Last time i heard much about Haiti, the people were crying out for shelter , clean water, basic foods etc.
 
Good stuff, I was thinking about buying one myself to play with

Are you happy with Evolution 3D printer?

What is the software like?
 
I would not recommend 3dstuffmaker to anyone any more after learning what i have, it has taken me over 12 months to get it to a high quality machine,
I should really upload some pictures of recent prints, I can print at rather hi speeds as well, like 100-150mm's Much faster than many printers available on the market, many are around 40mm's
To achieve this, i had to change pretty much everything on the printer, the heart of it, the hotend, to a high quality and i made a custom extruder.
Also re-enforced the frame to make it more rigid ect..

My printer was horrible when i first got it, i had to pretty much rebuild it from the ground up, costing me huge time and some money, on a positive note, i know exactly what goes wrong when and if it does.


Questions,

Do you want to build one yourself ?
pros- you understand how it works, easy to troubleshoot yourself, and you can easily replicate it. Cheaper option as well, print a wide range of materals including trimmer line for your brushhcutter, needs to be nylon, you can get one running for about $500 and it will perform the same as a $2000-$3000 price range machine that runs out of the box, If your good at building things, I would say do it because you can make an incredible machine that you could never buy in a regular consumer market.
cons- takes time to build, you really need the time to do all the research and understand how it all works, dont let this put you off, i believe anyone can do it, some may do it faster than others, but its an investment of knowledge that can assist you with other things in life maybe
Buy one that works out of the box?
Pros works right away in most cases, but i found alot of the out of box solution need a fair few adjustments to get it right....
con's something breaks can be a pain to troubleshoot it, you maybe stuck into buying a particular style of filament, some companies may lock you into using PLA or ABS only and maybe their own brand , A company called Cube does this, and it sucks, also costs alot more for the same results at the end of the day



And what do you want to print? big things ? how big? what material do you want to use?

Software.

You have slicer software that slices a 3d model into layers, " slic3r is very common as well as replicator g and kisslicer"

Host software, something like pronterface that controls the machine and delivers the Gcode from slicing software.

You can change to what ever slicer you want really, and there is a bunch of host software





check out these printers, lulzbot.com I use their Budaschnozzle hotend, they have a very good design thats made for hi speeds, I would call their printer out of the box solution
I would rate them very similar to makerbots latest 2x printer, as they both have pretty extreme speeds upto 200mm's. Which is what you want, you dont want to wait for hours to print some small part, it would take about 30 mins to print a iphone case, where others may take upto 4 hours or more, ..



Next kinda printer something like mine or a solidoodle, they are meant to be out of the box, they often need quite a few adjustments and use low quality parts, bearings are shit ect.... for e.g. on mine, the print bed warped within the first 20 hours of use, extruder was a crap design, hotends breaking, thermistors breaking... a big headach Its either a hit or miss and eventually it will need to be rebuilt... once its done they are fantastic machine




At the end of the day, you can spend the time, save some money and build a custom machine that works as well if not better than any pre built printer that would cost you around 2k to 3k


These Are FFF fused filament fabrication, I saw the peachy printer for about $100 when it comes out, its a SLS selective laser sintering, It has an extreme Z resolution as it uses a drip system that increase the level so the z resolution is just extreme, How ever at the moment the material it uses it not as robust as FFF style printers, plastic extrusion.




Before you buy anything, id recommend posting here what your thinking of buying, ill check it out for you, i have accumulated quite a bit of knowledge over the last 12 months on this topic.


On another note, If you were to build one yourself,
These are the two models id go for

This is like mine, http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Assembled-prusa-mendel.jpg easy to build, So easy my friends 14 year old brother made one.

If you were good with building things, this is the one to go for

http://reprap.org/wiki/Rostock

however both can be built without to much trouble really.


the rostock just looks awesome in operation, the way it moves the hotend is completely different to how my prusa mendal moves X Y Z
 
some pics of parts i just recently made, first time prints, they came out quite good, strong, no delamination
The "correct setting" pic is a part of a concept wind turbine, it needs more infill,
The "overinfil" is an extruder yet to be assembled, it was on like 105% infill id say, its super strong, compromise on the aesthetics however
I could run both again with revised settings, mostly just the amount of extrusion needs to be adjusted. easy!

And to compare when i first got the printer, the 3rd pic, this parts not only looked like junk, the worst thing is they would easily break, crack, delaminate, completely unuseable
 

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Architectonic said:
And then there is chocolate printing. :lol:

[youtube]BIFi8but3Vw[/youtube]

cant say im a fan lol


I would like to see more printers using tech with light, I like the idea.
Look what stiffler made, I think its very innovative
[youtube]aCbNua94Zfc[/youtube]
 
box print, it was set on a the fastest settings, so was like .35 mm layer height, normally id use .10 - .20mm layer height.
Its strong enough to trust on a bicycle, this thing wont crack or split apart from being 3d printed, its as strong as an injection mold honestly, i have some abs injection molded battery boxes, the printed pla or abs ones are very similar, Nylon is more difficult even tho the material itself is stronger, unless you have a controlled printing environment, printing large nylon parts is tricky, warping is a big issue
 

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To give a more accurate print time, i just printed this extruder gear, This one i printed took exactly 13 mins and 43 seconds, it was 30% fill, .30mm layer height
 
Hi

I've already paid for one of these

http://www.makibox.com/

I paid for it about 10 weeks ago... and was told 6 to 8 weeks delivery... now it looks like I'm not going to get it till the middle of November

I'm tempted to cancel the order and either buy something else now, or wait a little while and get a laser type printer instead

any thoughts on that printer ? if you think it's a good one I might just wait for it... if it's not much good I might as well get something else :-o

thanks

Alan
 
I actually like the maikbox, I think for $200 or $300 how can you go wrong



- The threaded rods are much higher quality, They use them instead of belts on xy, I have threaded rods for my Z axis, belts for X and Y,
- Hotends looks pretty beastly
- looks like they use bushings? I do like it
- speed is from 60-80mm's This is pretty good considering its using rods not belts, looks like you could air cool all the motors and pump more current through them.
For the price I think its worth it, even if you have to tinker with it a bit, I was going to buy one of these, i have been following it on the reprap forum and their blog


The only setback, the company is fairly new, and waiting for them would bug you i can imagine, id also be expecting to tinker with it to get good results.

Here are some pics i could find from this printer, Last year and this year, The blue box looks really terrible, looks like a combination of problems with settings and possibly hardware, would be hard to know without watching the machine in operation, the yoda looks good, looks like the reprap standard really, once tweaked to perform like this all the time, id be happy
 

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cool, thanks for the reply

I'll just keep on waiting for it then

I'll post back when I get it for more help if that's cool ?


there's a load of different info out there for 3d printers, with a lot of people giving conflicting advice... sounds like you really know what you're doing tho :)
 
On a good calibrated reprap, ABS and PLA can be printed to be very similar strength to a injection moulded piece, it would be very hard to tell the difference
If your new to repraps, it will be hard to get this, but you will in time, just need to understand it all and all the annoying factors that come into play
My nylon piece's are still very strong( nothing at all like an injection molded nylons piece and less strength to my abs or PLA, I can never get the strength like PLA or ABS, Sometimes the parts are stronger but never consistently, sometimes they are brittle and just break due to each layer not fusing together and warping ect..
out of all the filaments, i prefer PLA to be the best, I love how rigid it is, how easy it is to print, and how well it prints on the typical reprap printer, I have found most of my PLA parts to very strong and not much difference to a ABS part, in most cases PLA parts coming out more stronger because the overall print quality is better with less things to go wrong
The only thing that is better in my opinion with ABS is that you can smooth the model with acetone, With PLA, the layer height can be so small, you might not even noticed the layers by eye but cannot be smoothed with acetone


I'm a bit excited about new filaments designed for repraps, They have made some PLA with carbon fibre, They also have an ABS and PC hybrid

Guessing in the next 12 months we should see a bit of an explosion with new types of filaments we can print with. extreme strength and very flexible filaments
 

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