Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Somebodystopme!! said:
mushymelon said:
Are these the ttl adapters we need to program this unit and if so why are people paying $15-$20 dollars for them?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=usb+to+ttl+converter&LH_BIN=1&LH_ItemCondition=3&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313&_nkw=usb+to+ttl+converter&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Convenience. The $15 ones are local and don't have to be ordered. You will almost always pay more to buy from a local brick n mortar.

Ok so they are the right ones, and I do understand why you would pay the money to pick one up locally just wanted to make sure it was the same thing before I ordered one.

Cheers

Mushy
 
They should work but you just never really know if the adapter is fully compatible and what drivers are available. I used the CA3 adapter because it is great quality and you know it will work. As with most things in life, you get what you pay for. BTW, I think you can get the CA3 USB-TTL direct from FTDIchip.

Other reason was that i already had one :mrgreen:
 
Kepler said:
They should work but you just never really know if the adapter is fully compatible and what drivers are available. I used the CA3 adapter because it is great quality and you know it will work. As with most things in life, you get what you pay for. BTW, I think you can get the CA3 USB-TTL direct from FTDIchip.

Other reason was that i already had one :mrgreen:

Thanks for that you gave me an idea, I already have a Lyen programming cable

Has a pl2303hx chip in it that should work i think.
 
mushymelon said:
Are these the ttl adapters we need to program this unit and if so why are people paying $15-$20 dollars for them?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=usb+to+ttl+converter&LH_BIN=1&LH_ItemCondition=3&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313&_nkw=usb+to+ttl+converter&_sacat=0&_from=R40
They are the same. Your operating system may or may not recognize them and install drivers for them. So you are taking a chance there, and waiting a week or more.
 
mushymelon said:
Kepler said:
They should work but you just never really know if the adapter is fully compatible and what drivers are available. I used the CA3 adapter because it is great quality and you know it will work. As with most things in life, you get what you pay for. BTW, I think you can get the CA3 USB-TTL direct from FTDIchip.

Other reason was that i already had one :mrgreen:

Thanks for that you gave me an idea, I already have a Lyen programming cable

Has a pl2303hx chip in it that should work i think.

Should be fine. I was going to use that one but I couldn't get a Windows 8 Prolific driver for it. You just need to work out the pin assignment.
 
mushymelon said:
teslanv said:
I think one could plug individual female leads onto the pins of the connector, and then hot glue them all as a bunch to make them into a single plug. - You would need to be careful not to permanently hot glue them to the Bafang connector and to be able to reregister them in the proper pin positions again, however.

Does what I just wrote make any sense?

I was thinking the same thing sorta.

I don't think using the original connector is the best bet. I was thinking of using some clay or something soft to make an impression of the original female connector. Using bare female/pins the ones you crimp on, bury them in the imprinted clay as deep as they would go into the connector then find a paper or plastic tube that has the same diameter as the connector, centre it over the pins and fill it with epoxy .

I will probably shrink tube the pins first so the epoxy doesn't leech inside the connectors.

Does this make sense?
I just had another thought.
We need someone with a 3D printer. Problem solved.
 
Rusty123 said:
Sugru might be good for binding the pins together.

Damn, that's a good idea! I have some left in the fridge from a project I started at the beginning of the year.

Connect the pins, spray some wd40 into the connector to act as a releasing agent and push some Sugru in and voila - a ready made connector.

Project for tomorrow!
 
Has anybody got access to the advanced settings on the C963 display (if any/possible at all)?

I have tried the same procedure as for the C961 with no success :(

/Philip
 
So apparantly there aren't any hidden ekstras :(

I'm getting the C961 so i can get more PAS settings. Sad because i like the C963 with buttons build in.

/Philip
 
Kepler said:
Problem is, as it stands, its a time consuming process to make a plug and play cable with what we currently have available. Although there are cheap USB-TTL converters out there that will work, I used this one from Grin http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/ebike-parts/ca-accessories/cables/ca-usb.html. It is a quality adapter with full driver support right up to the the latest Windows 8.1. I know that Justin went through a lot of testing before selecting this cable for programing the CA3's.

For the adapter plug from Jaycar, these cost $15 then I have about an hours work to assemble the cable including time on the lathe carefully turning the diameter down to suit.

So for me to make it, you are now looking at a $50 adapter plug plus you still need to buy the $18 USB-TTL converter from Grin.

Anyway, that's the plug and play option. Not cheap and to be honest $50 isn't really worth my while for the amount work involved.
but with those two parts, if I am grasping this at all and chances are I'm not, we could make jumper wires from the plug to plug? For me a picture of a jury rigged setup, and link to proper parts, would be sufficient. Reading back to see if I've missed it.

Edit,

I think better pictures of this setup might get me there. With hopes for a better solution down the road.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=58780&start=25#p884525
 
tomjasz said:
Edit,

I think better pictures of this setup might get me there. With hopes for a better solution down the road.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=58780&start=25#p884525

Any help?

IMAG0709_zpsuoa9ydpd.jpg

IMAG0710_zpsegatc4uh.jpg

IMAG0712_zps219sxqyf.jpg


The black stuff is Sugru - air drying modelling putty - I put it on the cables when they were connected to the plug and let it dry overnight.
 
tomjasz said:
amigafan2003 said:
Any help?
Yes another good plan. Thanks! Any special usb cable?

Just this:-

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=281281203343&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160

Drivers downloaded from Prolific website:-

http://www.prolific.com.tw/US/ShowProduct.aspx?p_id=225&pcid=41
 
Great, Now to flash back 10 years and get acquainted with Windoze again. I'm rusty after a decade of Mac OS.
 
tomjasz said:
Great, Now to flash back 10 years and get acquainted with Windoze again. I'm rusty after a decade of Mac OS.

Mac drivers:-

http://www.prolific.com.tw/US/ShowProduct.aspx?p_id=229&pcid=41
 
Happy to help with 3d printing. Good thread. I have a c963 also and hope to reprogram.
 
Somebodystopme!! said:
it would help but 25 Euros + shipping and tax is a stiff price to butcher a harness for just one plug. (IMHO)

I agree on the $$$. But maybe you could put a conventional plug/socket arrangement - suitable sleeved in heat shrink - behind the plug in question, with a matching connector to the USB link. May be easier and more convenient in the long run...

Savvas.
 
Hey all,

I've run into a bit of an issue with my BBS02 48v 750w unit and am hoping for some clarification from early adopters.

In a recent folding accident I damaged the connector which is closest to the motor and connects to the loom for the front including the LCD. My connectors look nothing like anyone elses and in fact have 8 actual conductors.

If I have my information right I want to use the following five lines when programming:

TX - Green
RX - Yellow
vBatt - Red
Controller On - White, tie to vBatt
GND - Black

There are an additional three wires in my loom - Brown, Blue and Orange... anyone know which these wires are for in the older model (Ive had this one for about 9 months without issue except an occasional bent derailer hanger).

In either case - Since I damaged the cable anyway I decided to break the loom into a single 4S JST/HXT (5 conductor for programming) and a 2S JST / HXT to connect the unknown wires in the loom.

Just FYI: Im working on decoding the LCD protocols using a high impedance microcontroller logger to decode various commands and hopefully eliminate the need for the LCD display without loosing function.

Thanks in advance for any assistance you can offer!

Regards,
mwkeefer
 
There are an additional three wires in my loom - Brown, Blue and Orange... anyone know which these wires are for in the older model (Ive had this one for about 9 months without issue except an occasional bent derailer hanger).

Sorry to hear about your accident! Perfect time to put in a custom harness though.

It sounds like those extra wires are for the throttle or brake cutouts.. They should be in your main harness as well as the 5 for the controller/display..
 
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