World Domination, I just got my self a 3d Printer!!!

And check the daily feed on thingiverse for ideas - it will blow your mind what people come up with...

Dremel is a large and well-respected tool company, they are now offering a $1,000 complete unit. I will look for the max print size and if it will print in ABS (as well as the entry-level PLA type plastic)

230mm x 150mm x 140mm (9” x 5.9” x 5.5”), with a clever removable bed to simplify model extraction. There’s no heated platform, so this machine is PLA only

Click to expand...

Max print size is very good, I wonder how difficult it would be to modify the bed to be heated?

http://makezine.com/2014/09/17/dremel-3d-printer-idea-builder/

spinningmagnets said:

Dremel is a large and well-respected tool company, they are now offering a $1,000 complete unit. I will look for the max print size and if it will print in ABS (as well as the entry-level PLA type plastic)

230mm x 150mm x 140mm (9” x 5.9” x 5.5”), with a clever removable bed to simplify model extraction. There’s no heated platform, so this machine is PLA only

Click to expand...

Max print size is very good, I wonder how difficult it would be to modify the bed to be heated?

http://makezine.com/2014/09/17/dremel-3d-printer-idea-builder/

Click to expand...

I hate to be annoying but I don't think this is worth getting...
looking at it , These are things that would kinda annoying me..

-Getting to the print head, looks a little to proprietary to me ( every now and then you might need to rebuild it/clean it.. and it might be quite a annoying task having the head the way it is..
-Changing filament... I like to have about 3 or 4 spools above my printer and its easy to change colour
-no heated bed, Most likely the case is made of plastic, Adding a 100c+ heated bed with that particular chamber might cause the frame to deform..
-Price for what it is...

Id be looking at a secondhand makerbot or a taz...

There is also this company called QUBD
They sell a $200 printer with about $10 shipping..
it has a small foot print... but for the price I don't think you can complain
http://store.quintessentialuniversalbuildingdevice.com/category.php?id_category=71 << here


or

http://printrbot.com/shop/assembled-simple-metal/ $599 full metal design...
Your going to be able to mod the hell out of this, add a heated bed or a custom heat chamber..

p.s.
if you get into this, dont throw away hair dryers.. I recently ripped one apart.. got a heap of nichrome wire and turned it into a heater for my printer chamber..

The latest repetier host has a cool function to allow you to chop up your parts..

e.g. you want to make something big.. you can now chop it up into printable sections via the repetier host..
so less time in cad i guess..

I like the printrbot all metal... and for the price its pretty damm good

I've been looking everywhere on line for that - thanks nechaus. So many people wanting it.

Time to upgrade my repetier.

Samd said:

I've been looking everywhere on line for that - thanks nechaus. So many people wanting it.

Time to upgrade my repetier.

Click to expand...

also check out the new slic3r if you have not already, it has a better infill movements now..

3d printer aficionados, anyone got a recommendation for the best performing commercial unit available for a reasonable price ?
I'm guessing these should be available in the 1-2k range now for something fairly decent ?
I have a project coming up at work that will need a few custom parts made up and rather than outsourcing them it sounds like a great opportunity to buy myself a new toy

Go bilby. Especially for filament. REpeatability is key.

https://www.bilbycnc.com.au/DispCat.asp?CatID=9

Hyena said:

3d printer aficionados, anyone got a recommendation for the best performing commercial unit available for a reasonable price ?
I'm guessing these should be available in the 1-2k range now for something fairly decent ?
I have a project coming up at work that will need a few custom parts made up and rather than outsourcing them it sounds like a great opportunity to buy myself a new toy

Click to expand...

I have been having great sucess with a TAZ4. You might get one under $2000 usa. I put a 65mm 12v fan on mine pointing at the Budaschnozzle hot end and can easily run prints that take 7 hours to make. I run it at 9v because that is the wall wart I happen to have on hand.

that looks really nice layer quality, I cant really even make out the layers

Man I totally love that printer, it's an awesome machine.

Samd said:

Go bilby. Especially for filament. REpeatability is key.

https://www.bilbycnc.com.au/DispCat.asp?CatID=9

Click to expand...

Cool, thanks for the tip. Any advice on specific printers ?

e-beach said:

I have been having great sucess with a TAZ4. You might get one under $2000 usa. I put a 65mm 12v fan on mine pointing at the Budaschnozzle hot end and can easily run prints that take 7 hours to make. I run it at 9v because that is the wall wart I happen to have on hand.

Click to expand...

Wow e-beach, your printer is an e-peach!
I'm kind of after something enclosed, ideally less DIY/science project looking and more like an appliance (for work purposes) but print quality trumps appearance and something like yours certainly looks the goods. While smashing out prints quickly would be nice I'm guessing using thin filaments and taking your time is the key to getting a nice finished product like this. How long did yours take to print that ?

Ive been fence sitting on 3D printers for a long time because this industry is evolving so fast. After seeing your post here then cyberstalking the open-hardware Taz 4, I think I am sold on it. I've converted a vertical mill to CNC (build thread here on E:S) so I think I can handle building the kit version. Not only will I learn the details, I'm looking forward to a new "puzzle" to solve.

I could really use some tips from you guys who have been around the block on this. The kit appears to make financial sense - at $1,595 it is $600 cheaper than the assembled version, minus the value of bundled stuff: LCD, "ready dual extruder tol head", and "toolkit & accessories".

The LCD is ($70), cable and case ($100), is that everything I need and is it worth it to buy them?
The "ready dual Extruder", what would I have to buy to make the kit dual-head ready?
The toolkit looks mostly like stuff I already have around the shop, anything from it I should buy?
Any upgrades I should add right off the bat?
Should I just buy a spool of ABS from them or start with something else?
Any coupons/deals I can leverage, or should I just buy straight from lulzbot?

-JD

Hyena said:

..........How long did yours take to print that ?

Click to expand...

That particular part took about 6 1/2 hours to print. About the same time it took for a Uprint by dimension to print a earlier lens mount I made for another 3D immersion headset. I got 1 free print out the the Uprint then the owner sold it......

Anyway I got a good tool in the TAZ4 and great support from Lulzbot!

oatnet said:

Ive been fence sitting on 3D printers for a long time because this industry is evolving so fast. After seeing your post here then cyberstalking the open-hardware Taz 4, I think I am sold on it. I've converted a vertical mill to CNC (build thread here on E:S) so I think I can handle building the kit version. Not only will I learn the details, I'm looking forward to a new "puzzle" to solve.

Click to expand...

If you can convert a mill to cnc you can crack 3d printing.

The LCD is ($70), cable and case ($100), is that everything I need and is it worth it to buy them?
The "ready dual Extruder", what would I have to buy to make the kit dual-head ready?
The toolkit looks mostly like stuff I already have around the shop, anything from it I should buy?
Any upgrades I should add right off the bat?
Should I just buy a spool of ABS from them or start with something else?
Any coupons/deals I can leverage, or should I just buy straight from lulzbot?

Click to expand...

I like having the lcd because I can go untethered. Just design the part in my software, slice it with slic3r and save to SD card, insert the card into the lcd box and print. No computer hookup needed.

Tool kit is mostly things you have around the shop, but what comes with with the kit is nice quality.

ABS can warp while printing in a drafty area, I mostly use PLA which makes nice prints and doesn't stink so much while printing. ABS can sustain higher temperatures around hot parts like warm batteries or e-bike controllers.

Upgrades: Add a fan like I did so the filament doesn't get hot and expand in the hot-end. If your filament expands it can clog the hot end and ruin the print.

Lulzbot has an academic discount if you know anybody in collage student or professor. They need to ship to the school so you will have to pick it up there.

Super cheap 3d printer, $200
http://store.quintessentialuniversalbuildingdevice.com/category.php?id_category=71
cheap quality< perfect for that tinkering type of person, can be upgraded quite a bit

good quality<
Printrbot all metal is pretty decently priced and it's a very nice machine, My friend has one and it works really nicely for the price he paid, he has had it for 3 weeks now, printing almost every hour of the day and has not missed a beat..


A pretty awesome hotend is called the e3d v6, can print any plastic with it, can go upto temps of like 300c+
I think the ultimate printer to get would be one with a heated chamber, water cooled hotend/print head.
And the heated chamber ability to keep the print just below the melting transition point, this would ensure the whole print is kept at the same temp and cooling can be done in a controlled manner...


Lots of thought has to go into a machine that is totally enclosed, most electronics will need to be isolated or water cooled..
But damm you will be able to print large objects with out warp on any material

printed this speaker stand the other day for my rear speakers..
.35mm layer height, low res but fast and certainly strong enough for this purpose..
Just need to give that wood part another coat of paint.
From memory the center hub took about 3 hours, and each leg took around an hour an a half fyi.

nechaus said:

printed this speaker stand the other day for my rear speakers..
.......

Click to expand...

Nice, gives me an idea for a guitar stand I was thinking about printing.

oatnet said:

Ive been fence sitting on 3D printers ... Taz 4, I think I am sold on it.
....
I could really use some tips from you guys who have been around the block on this.

Click to expand...

I'm quite partial to the Fusematic from MakersToolWorks (the guys behind the Reprap Mendelmax incarnations which I personally use). It's $850 all in and has linear slides on all three axises (no smooth rods to keep aligned!) and is all metal. My friend bought one of the first models earlier this year and it's largely been trouble free. Far less time needs to be spent keeping it aligned.

http://store.makerstoolworks.com/printers-kits/fusematic-3d-printer/



Lastly, in regards to the LCD - I don't feel it's worth the added cost. Buy a $35 Raspberry Pi, a cheap usb webcam, and install 'Octoprint'. It will serve as the hosts to your printer(s), store the gcode locally so you can go do other things, and the webcam allows quick checks of long running prints (and even makes timelapse videos).

http://octoprint.org/

I am in the market for a new printer,

I managed to fry the mother board, and all the bearings have pretty much turned into crusty bushing..
It needs a massive overhaul. But i am happy I have pushed probably 30 kg of plastic threw it over the past 2 or so years.. The thing went non stop..
I even accidental reversed the polarity and smoke came out of the input caps but she still pushed on!!! :lol:


So the new year, Have a new job, so can afford another printer... Not going to have the time and patience to build one at this stage, But i may rebuild my existing system in the future, all the steppers are still good, just need some new parts.


i am looking at this one

http://printrbot.com/shop/assembled-metal-printrbot-plus/
OR
The simple metal version

http://printrbot.com/compare-printers/


I am subscribed to the " tested " youtube channel, they use it on there alot, the simple metal version, looks solid!

adriftatsea said:

oatnet said:

Ive been fence sitting on 3D printers ... Taz 4, I think I am sold on it.
....
I could really use some tips from you guys who have been around the block on this.

Click to expand...

I'm quite partial to the Fusematic from MakersToolWorks (the guys behind the Reprap Mendelmax incarnations which I personally use). It's $850 all in and has linear slides on all three axises (no smooth rods to keep aligned!) and is all metal. My friend bought one of the first models earlier this year and it's largely been trouble free. Far less time needs to be spent keeping it aligned.

http://store.makerstoolworks.com/printers-kits/fusematic-3d-printer/

Lastly, in regards to the LCD - I don't feel it's worth the added cost. Buy a $35 Raspberry Pi, a cheap usb webcam, and install 'Octoprint'. It will serve as the hosts to your printer(s), store the gcode locally so you can go do other things, and the webcam allows quick checks of long running prints (and even makes timelapse videos).

http://octoprint.org/

Click to expand...

cant make up my mind!

I like this guys reviews

https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer/videos

If your gears have gone bad, why not just print up some new gears?

haha, yeah, Well the printed gears have just kept on going strong! iv read on the forums of people gears wearing out, Mine have a bit of blacklash now with retraction, but it was so minimal It never bothered me! "edit" FYI for anyone curious, They were used for about 14 months non stop and they could keep on being used for a much longer time, they were printed with PLA.


One total mistake I made, I used lithium grease on the all the linear rails, And after time, dust and crap went inside.. last time I serviced them, I cleaned them with just petrol/gas and when i put them back in I noticed they were rough!, But i just put grease back in and it kinda turned into a hybrid bearing/bushing :lol:
but what ever lol, Still printed pretty decently to be honest... good enough to keep using I think, I noticed the stepper motors getting hot so I ended up putting fans on them all and no more over heating issues.. bit of a band aid fix.

[youtube]ca53b55_Cj8[/youtube]

these guys talk alot!

[youtube]xfSNE4ow5zU[/youtube]

I got myself a DLP/SLA 3d printer (Very high resolution printer which uses a DLP projector to cure the liquid resin, engineering quality) which I'm geting the hang of (Still learning the techniques to achieving high quality prints). I'm also getting a MakerGear M2 kit soon, with its build area of 10"x8"x8" and its stellar Amazon reputation of being high quality, remarkably good resolution and reliable.

The liquid resin is far more expensive than the plastic filament (About $60 per liter/kg), but yet it can achieve far higher resolutions and is much faster (Each layer takes 6 seconds and the average 1" print of mine is about 30minutes to an hour.), so I'm going to have both types of 3d printers around. The cheaper plastic filament would be perfect for the large build volume the M2 can achieve.

I'm currently printing out prototypes for goods, then I'm printing out molds for those goods and I'm injecting hotglue into the molds. Initial testing looks pretty promising. I'm going to look into casting the molds/goods into different metals and I'm going to start out with zamak (A zinc alloy w/ a low melting temperature) and branch up the temperature chart from there -> aluminum -> silver, gold, bronze, copper -> Iron -> Steel (Maybe; requires more expensive equipment and far higher power requirements.)

Building the DLP printer from a kit saved me about $600, and the building the M2 from a kit should save me about $260 (They make it look like it's $300 cheaper, and then they charge an extra $40 in shipping for the kit version right at the end of the checkout, which doesn't seem right. Still, the kit is appreciably cheaper.)

I'm trying to make parts/goods and I'm trying to avoid machining as much as I can, lol.