ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
Kiriakos GR said:Why to improvise when engineers have run ahead and design an almost 90% compatible rack for your bicycle ? :wink:
All that I had to do is to shorten the rods at half length of the ones who hold still the rack with the frame.
Willow said:Kiriakos GR said:Why to improvise when engineers have run ahead and design an almost 90% compatible rack for your bicycle ? :wink:
All that I had to do is to shorten the rods at half length of the ones who hold still the rack with the frame.
....because putting weight above the rear wheel like that is simply not good - effects on handling are pronounced.
Alan B said:Weight on the rear rack is very destabilizing and bicycle frames are not stiff in that direction, so they flex and even motorcycles rear racks are not designed for weights over 30 pounds due to the stability prolbems it causes.
Chalo said:..., but my pedaling is impaired if I have something wider than about 2" between my knees. Others here obviously differ, ...
Chalo said:That depends on a lot of factors. I find that a suitably rigid rear rack lets me carry up to about 30 lbs back there without objectionable effects, but my pedaling is impaired if I have something wider than about 2" between my knees. Others here obviously differ, or else they don't bother pedaling.
Rear motor/front frame-mounted battery seems like a good layout, but the opposite is what I've usually used. I'd only tolerate a battery in the front triangle if it was situated down low by the cranks.
Chalo said:Alan B said:Weight on the rear rack is very destabilizing and bicycle frames are not stiff in that direction, so they flex and even motorcycles rear racks are not designed for weights over 30 pounds due to the stability problems it causes.
While there is a significant inertial moment between mass on a rear rack and a bike's center or rotation in any axis, I have come to believe that most of the problem lies in the rack itself. Most rear luggage racks are made of small diameter aluminum, with no diagonal bracing at all against lateral forces. Both the materials and the designs tend to make them sway side to side under even small loadings.
The Tubus Cargo rack is an example of a rack that differs in both regards. It's made from tubular chromoly steel, and the middle strut forms a triangle joining the rack sides and top. While I don't use this specific rack-- I have found some less expensive ones that do the job I ask of them-- it's the one I order for touring cyclists who load their bikes heavily.
It's not unusual for a self-supported touring cyclist to carry 80 pounds of gear and supplies among two to four panniers. But unlike the lackadaisical pedalers here, self-propelled cyclists don't seem to want anything wider than a water bottle in the front triangle. If you're curious, check out your legs while you pedal. If they move all in a plane parallel to the bike's frame, then all's well. If your knees splay or flare at all as they rise to the top of your pedal stroke, then something is interfering-- a wide battery pack, a too-low seat, or perhaps even a generous belly. I find it doesn't take much to foul my own pedal stroke.
Alan B said:Chalo said:I'd only tolerate a battery in the front triangle if it was situated down low by the cranks.
Have you tried a triangle battery, or is this a theory?
Water bottles are wider than 2".
Chalo said:Alan B said:Chalo said:I'd only tolerate a battery in the front triangle if it was situated down low by the cranks.
Have you tried a triangle battery, or is this a theory?
Water bottles are wider than 2".
I have never bothered to try a triangle battery, because my experience with smaller items (e.g. water bottles) in triangle bags has demonstrated that my knees rub on them when I pedal. Water bottles are a little wider than 2", but they don't occupy the space swept by the rider's knees. So bottle batteries make sense to me, but triangle batteries do not.
Bowlegged riders, or those who never had a proven pedaling form to deviate from, may have no problem stuffing their front triangles with whatever they choose.
Jesus Christ!.... And I thought my wiring harness was a handful. What kind of pack configuration are you running there?diggler said:Just got done reading this hole thread. There is some great stuff here!
Gave me a lot of great Ideas for when I revamp my commuter and for my current build. Thanks to all.
Just one question? How come nobody seems to do front fork pannier style battery mounting?
I put 48V 40Ah lipo in two front panniers 20Ah in each. I road that all last summer and I had no problems with handling.
Granted the bike only went 23.5 MPH on the flats, but I didn't feel it in the steering or balance.
I could even let go of the handle bars unscrew my tasty beverage, take a drink, screw the cap back on and put said drink back in the cup holder no prob.
Also it evens out the weight, with the hubbie in the rear.
The only negative was the bumpiness of the ride with all that weight in the front. (I wonder if a front suspension fork will fix this?)
I originally was going to put another 40Ah in the rear pannier too but it turned out that 50 miles to charge was just enough for what I needed. No peddling, unless I was in a hurry or there was a big hill.
I just used the rear for lunch box, groceries, ect...
Here's a link to some pics. I'll put some here as well.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=65638&start=25#p990800
This is by no means custom, just thought it might be appropriate.
made_in_the_alps_legacy said:
[/quote]Alan B said:Weight on the rear rack is very destabilizing and bicycle frames are not stiff in that direction, so they flex and even motorcycles rear racks are not designed for weights over 30 pounds due to the stability prolbems it causes.