Recent content by bengxe

Chalo, I'm on your side here, none of my bikes have brake switches for the reasons you've mentioned. But OP was clearly asking about an e-bike with e-brakes, where the switches only exist to cut engine power. And since we're just being pedantic here, no modern car or truck will let you use the...

Brakes, being a safety feature, are always going to override throttle inputs. No legitimate manufacturer would allow otherwise. If you need to use your brakes and throttle at the same time, you don't want e-brakes. That might just mean unplugging your brake lever switches.

ChatGPT thinks you're talking to ChatGPT. I don't know why its getting so in depth with the responses here, but quoting it is probably giving it what it wants.

I think the more important difference would be suspension squat under power, if you're applying that second design to the first bike. The first option seems like a better design even if it comes with a slight efficiency cost. There is a program called linkage that might help you compare the...

https://web.archive.org/web/20180312085133/http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-behind-the-magic/science-behind-the-magic-drivetrain-compatibility/ You just need to find a cable pull length x shift ratio that equals the sprocket pitch of your cassette.

One of my bikes uses 3 separate battery modules with 3 separate BMSs. I charge/ discharge them all together in parallel with no issues. But I built them all from the same cells and used identical common port BMSs.

Power is absolutely the issue when he's only making 2/3 of what the motor kit claims. No battery was mentioned, 72v is an assumption, so 2kw is probably a best case. But you're right, OP should check the free speed with no load on it. And I'd be willing to bet your 35mph 1500w bikes didn't...

That frame doesn't have bottle cage bolts, does it? It looks like you're putting a lot of faith in those zip ties. It also looks like a fun bike if the battery stays attached.

30mph sounds about right for a 30 amp controller. You need more amps if you want to go faster. If that's 72v you're barely over 2kw.

That plug goes to the alarm module on my sabvoton. The orange is an ignition input and the brown is a phase wire/ speed signal.

If you believe it when multi billion dollar corporations say they're "losing money", I'm sorry, life must be really hard for you. If there were instances of that actually being true it would be to try to stake a claim of market share, so its still about making them money in the long run.

You ever notice how many electric motors it takes to run an ICE engine? The point OP was making is that battery costs are coming down, driving sales volumes up. I agree that ICE car manufacturers have a very refined process, but I can't imagine why you think motors and electronics would be...

They already have, by orders of magnitude. I'm not sure how you can compare an electric motor and controller to the complexities of a modern ICE car with all of its emissions controls.

Is the BMS hitting a current limit or an LVC? Do you know that you're actually drawing 200 amps?

You probably need an internal t47 bottom bracket and a standard width crankset. You can add spacers to take up that difference and possibly add some clearance, but the q factor measurement might be more important for the clearance you need...