Recent content by bigedgar

Thanks Amberwolf - I'll check those out!

Thanks for the thoughts as always, Amberwolf. I believe it's highly likely that the caps are part of the problem (if not THE problem) with my old controllers - two of my three blown controllers had the caps blow, and the third has very swollen caps (and although the third one didn't "blow", per...

Shoot, my mistake - it's a brushed motor (two wires), not brushless. Amberwolf - It seems that my motor occasionally demands more than 30A, which is why I was looking for a controller that could handle more than 30A. My current controller brand is supposedly rated for 30A, but as you know it...

Well, I'm giving up on rehabbing my existing controllers. Testing the MOSFETs has turned out to be a real challenge - I can't seem to get consistent readings across any of my blown or known-good controllers. Time to cut bait and move on. I'm now going to look for a better controller that suits...

Great idea! I connected one of my modified controllers to just the battery and the motor and as soon as I completed the circuit the motor kicked on full bore. That would seem to narrow down the issue to the controller. I will look into testing the MOSFETs. If nothing else I'll learn something...

Ah, so everything under one of those "tape" sections is effectively connected together? I connected everything up to a stock, unmodified controller today and everything works as expected. I assume from this that the throttle wiring is all intact and there is something wrong with the controller...

Thanks for the thoughts, as always. I appreciate the explanation on the solder tape/glob/whatever it is - I had never seen that before. I don't like the fact that I can't see where things are connected :x I had to put the GIF on an external site b/c it's too large for the forum (it's an...

Update: I was successfully able to get the capacitors re-soldered with the positive/negative in the right spots, and with the posts as close to the board as possible. The good news is that the motor spins without blowing fuses. The bad news, however, is that I seem to have lost throttle control...

Thanks for the thoughts, John. I hadn't had any luck sourcing what appeared to be a reliable controller that looked like it could handle a 36v / 1000w system - lots of options for 36v / 500w, or 48v / 1000w, but nothing right in my wheelhouse. The Kelly controller looks like a good potential...

The top of the case "flips" open, so fortunately I can drill the holes and flip it back into place.

Well shoot, I had no idea caps had a positive and negative :oops: . I can fix that. And drilling a hole in the case for the caps to stick through is a good idea - I'll give those two things a shot and let you know how it goes. Thanks again, Amberwolf!

Hi, I'm back with an update and another question. If you'll recall, this thread was about an electric mini bike that kept blowing up controllers. One of the suggestions was to replace the controller with a higher capacity, higher quality controller, but I couldn't find one that fit my specs...

Thanks again for all the great thoughts, guys. It doesn't seem that simple to find a controller that is rated at 36v and > 30 amps while still being fairly plug-and-play. There are options out there, but it seems like most of them require additional parts to connect the throttle, power, charger...

Thanks, Dogman. What does a "bigger" controller look like? Still 36v, but something that can handle more than 30 amps?

I checked the caps in the three controllers I have: 1. One cap exploded, the other is bulging 2. Both caps exploded 3. Both caps are swollen (this is the one controller that hasn't "exploded" yet, but the fuse holder melted. It's possible that the controller is already toast, or it could be...