Recent content by boudin

Since someone has asked in DM, I decided I should add here as well: after 400 pretty brutal high-altitude miles and two blown hubs, If I had it to do again, I wouldn't. I think the bike is probably par for the course of mediocre electric bikes made by slapping together the cheapest Chinesium...

Interestingly enough, they shipped an unthreaded motor, then had me remove the stator package from both and swap them. The motor's working again, so now I've got both a working bike and hall sensors to debug.

To be fair, I'm not maximizing for acceleration, I'm just trying to make sure that my bike is both rideable without assist (if I'm in the very plausible scenario where the motor or battery fails miles from civilization) and will survive the maximum reasonable input from both motor and human...

Your mistake was buying a Twix and not a Corny or a frankfurter.

While I agree with not heating the magnet directly, do be aware that heating the shaft will cause it to expand and increase its friction interface with the magnet. Your best bet is to do this to break down the glue, then cool the shaft rapidly (ice cubes) so it will shrink before the magnet...

Quite a way to drive views there, bruh.

Minor update: had to reassemble to take photos and video of the behavior for their warranty department. They're shipping me a new motor and I suspect they won't be asking for the old back, so I should have the opportunity to repair that one at my own pace. If the replacement ships from CN...

You obviously don't subscribe to the SUV model of toughness: suspension and knobbies makes you Offroad. Period. :twisted:

I own one and ride it and am not a small individual. While folding wasn't a qualifying factor, it's hard to find a 20" fat bike that isn't one, and it's nice for putting it in the trunk of the car rather than on a hitch mount. The bike still weighs 60lb. It's not the nicest bike nor as twitchy...

That I can hand-rotate it in reverse with nominal resistance. I can't yet check under power. I'd certainly prefer to avoid cracking the case. The exterior connector is a waterproof 9-pin barrel strongly similar to this one. Inside the controller enclosure, that waterproof connector terminates...

Although it's a geared motor (CZJB-104C2), it rotates fine in reverse. All connectors to the controller are snug and have no visible insulation failures or scorch marks, so no immediately apparent shorts at this stage. Sounds like I'll get to break into the housing eventually and start...

In generic terms, we'd just exited a fairly rough descent of 1.25mi, no assist so the motor should have been relatively cool. Began climbing an approximately 10-15% grade on PAS 1 or 2, occasional throttle squirts to help boost past roots or rocks that were curb size or smaller (not braced...

Yup, they're attractive to a different market than the average Spherester. If it's repairable within reason we'll do so and keep it in town for its original purpose: year-round grocery-getting in a city that doesn't plow surface streets. In the greater scheme, this just bumps the budget...

Momentarily ignoring the wisdom of buying a cheap bike from the lowest bidder, we took such a vehicle slightly outside of its operational envelope this weekend (a 20" fat bike on +1 "blue" single-track) and, according to the error the controller is throwing, killed one or more Hall sensors...

This is a great one to illustrate the power requirements. An "average" user of 5'10" @ 165lb on a 120lb bike (roughly how much a Sur Ron weighs, IIRC) on medium-width slicks requires 900W to sustain 31mph. To travel 75 miles at that speed would require about 2.5 hours, so 900*2.5 == 2250...