Approximate cost of materials to build a basic chromoly MTB bike frame?

I'd definitely take a class before starting, and will build things like racks and aerodynamic aids before building a frame.
Just speccing costs and what i'm getting myself into.

TIG is not my preferred method, but it'd like to start with what i will end up using in the long run, and the cost of entry is less bad than i expected.

I'd actually rather jump straight to laser welding but the cost of entry is easily 10-20x that of TIG.

The TIG machine shown is a scratch start (no foot pedal) meaning the amperage is set to one level and there is no way to slowly add heat on start up or taper down the heat when coming to weld ending.
Gas torch kit is actually a good buy in that it comes with bottles.
Larger production companies will rent the bottles instead as a business write off.
Regulators are on the small side.
Regulators with large(r) diaphragms provide steadier flow.
Pawn shops used to be a great place to find second hand oxy/acetylene torches and gauges.
Victor torches look for tip sizes 2, 1, 0, 00 .

I'd listen to Inanek and PaPa Steve. They are, in my opinion, correct. And I can do all of the methods discussed.

This is not a really easy skill to get good at. You'll never get me on a bike that a beginner has TIG welded up. Take a look at what a union journeyman welder earns.

I'm a pretty good welder but you'll never get me on a bike that I've TIG welded. MIG and brazed are much easier to master and will do the job just fine.

I learn quick, especially when determined.


But i found a problem with my plans.


The upgraded TIG with better features is $350 but it doesn't do aluminum. I gotta pay $775 for that and it absolutely requires a 220v outlet to handle the thicker material of aluminum ( i won't have that for years ).

But i don't need to do structural aluminum, just things like racks and aerodynamic aids where strength is a lot less essential than say, the frame.

Brazing works well for chromoly bikes and acceptably well for aluminum with the right stick. That's the tie breaker.


Here's the problem with the portatorch though, it's rated to braze up to 1/16th of an inch which is 1.5mm, but headtubes and bottom brackets can be 2mm, so it seems like not enough power for certain things.

What would be the next step up?

Welding, brazing is all about heat control, best control equals best results.

With Oxy/acetylene, generating heat is all about tip size and fuel flow.
Victor torches have 10 tip sizes available.
Two stage regulators with large diaphragms have the smoothest flow.

For TIG, having a fully capable, precise power source is ideal.
Some form of power throttle control, either by hand or foot.
DC straight or reverse polarity.
AC with wave form control.
Pulse control.

Machine I currently use is a 10 year old Fronius Magic Wave 3000 inverter style.
Light enough to hand carry.
Currently powered with 220v 50a single phase but can be powered by 460v 3 phase.
For AC it can create any combination of wave form ~ sine, square, or triangle wave form ( i.e. square on top, triangle on bottom or any other combination)
An amazing engineered machine.

For the bulk of my welding career a Miller Syncrowave 300 with pulser did the hard work.
450 pound bulky transformer style that required 200A service.

And then the myriad of torches, tungsten sizes and types, cups and collets etc. etc.