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  1. A

    Crystalyte Controllers - Repair and Modification information

    Thank you Richard! I'll give it a try. Would you suggest to place some clamp diodes on the second board close to the mosfets, as I have some space available? If so, which diode part # would be suitable? Thanks again. Antonio Zanardo
  2. A

    Crystalyte Controllers - Repair and Modification information

    Thank you Richard! I'll give it a try. Would you suggest to place some clamp diodes on the second board close to the mosfets, as I have some space available? If so, which diode part # would be suitable? Thanks again. Antonio Zanardo
  3. A

    Crystalyte Controllers - Repair and Modification information

    Thank you Richard! I'll give it a try. Would you suggest to place some clamp diodes on the second board close to the mosfets, as I have some space available? If so, which diode part # would be suitable? Thanks again. Antonio Zanardo
  4. A

    Crystalyte Controllers - Repair and Modification information

    I used to run a 408 motor with a 36-48 20A controller modified to work at 115V 20A. The bike performed very very well. High voltage, low amps is in my opinion the way to go. The benefits are lower current losses, thinner wires, small connectors and switches. The mosfets I used are FDP2532 rated...
  5. A

    Crystalyte Controllers - Repair and Modification information

    I used to run a 408 motor with a 36-48 20A controller modified to work at 115V 20A. The bike performed very very well. High voltage, low amps is in my opinion the way to go. The benefits are lower current losses, thinner wires, small connectors and switches. The mosfets I used are FDP2532 rated...
  6. A

    Crystalyte Controllers - Repair and Modification information

    I used to run a 408 motor with a 36-48 20A controller modified to work at 115V 20A. The bike performed very very well. High voltage, low amps is in my opinion the way to go. The benefits are lower current losses, thinner wires, small connectors and switches. The mosfets I used are FDP2532 rated...
  7. A

    Energy density of gasoline vs. Lipo batteries

    By doing some maths on energy density, I believe the content of those two small H2 tanks (supposed to have a 0.25 liter capacity each pumped to 200 bar) should be energy wise equivalent to about a 2kg lithium battery. Not a big deal, considering that the fuel cell will surely cost (and probably...
  8. A

    To add a new pack to ann old one

    Yes, the old lipo pack and the new one are exactly same chemistry, same type, same brand. They are one year age different, though, and this fact probably accounts for the fully charge different voltage. According to what you said, I can connect them with no problem, provided both packs are fully...
  9. A

    To add a new pack to ann old one

    I wish to parallel a new Lipo 57.35V battery pack to an old one wich delivers 57.12V. I fear that that 0.23V difference can drive an uncontrolled amount of amps from the new pack to the old one, thus creating some damages. Generally speaking, which percentage of voltage difference between Lipo...
  10. A

    Energy density of gasoline vs. Lipo batteries

    I have a bike with 6 lipo batteries each one supplying 28.5V11Ah. I connect them to various ways, according to my speed or range needs. They cost me a small fortune but, in spite of that, I myself am continuing doing those costly experiments, therefore I hope to not be regarded as the guy who...
  11. A

    115V 20A bike still running fast...

    ... however there is a unsolved problem. At low speed (0 to 25-30Kph) the acceleration is hard to control. A slight touch of throttle and the motor revs up too quickly, while amps jump to high values. In other words, at low speed the motor does not respond in a predictable way to throttle...
  12. A

    Who have already blowed their Crystalyte controller here?

    The damaged fets were mostly the same ones, or did they blow randomly? I.e. the blown mosfets were most frequently the same ones close to a specific phase cable (yellow or blue or black)? Antonio Zanardo
  13. A

    back to 115V 20A modified controller

    To The7 Your picture shows a 20A controller missing two mosfets at the left hand of the board. My understanding is that you had some problems with them, therefore you are going to replace them. The odd thing is that my same type controller blew TWICE exactly the two SAME mosfets as yours. Have...
  14. A

    back to 115V 20A modified controller

    Yes, the resistor is the one shown in your picture. By replacing that resistor with a 8.2K, and considering that the actual work voltage is 115V, the new values should be: Voltage drop 115V to 14V Current = (115-14)/8.2k = 12.3ma Power = (12.3*12.3)*8.2=1.24W A 8.2K 2W resistor should be ok...
  15. A

    back to 115V 20A modified controller

    After repairing the stock 48V 20A controller, modified to stand 115V, I bench tested it at 140V before placing it on the bike. I ascertained the low voltages were a regular 5V for throttle and 14.2 for motor hall sensors. However, the only big resistor placed on the board was very hot after a...
  16. A

    blown 36-48V controller upgraded to 150V

    Hi Bob, stacking mosfets is an idea I will take into consideration later on. As far as the controller failure is concerned, just two mosfets have blown. The 2101, the low voltage regulator and the gate resistors did not. I remind you that I am using 150V rated mosfets, and that 115V is the sum...
  17. A

    blown 36-48V controller upgraded to 150V

    I am a little confused about lithium chemistry. I know that some lithium batteries can catch fire or even explode. Some media reported a chinese guy killed by the explosion of his cellular battery. He was keeping the phone in his shirt pocket, close to heart. I prefer to ignore what could...
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    blown 36-48V controller upgraded to 150V

    My answer: I have 4 lithium batteries, each one rated 28.75V 10Ah at full charge. I can match them as follows: 1) Two sets of 2*28.75=57.5V 10Ah connected in parallel to get 57.5V 20Ah (which is the present setup I am running with the recently repaired 20A controller) 2) Or a series of...
  19. A

    blown 36-48V controller upgraded to 150V

    It's clear that the 408 motor limits have been unwillingly exceeded. The real question is: which are its real limits? I do not know. But aren't we all striving to get the best performances out of our bikes? If the answer is "yes", then we have to take some risks. I am calculating that in my case...
  20. A

    blown 36-48V controller upgraded to 150V

    As I said, I tested today the bike with 57V supply and in a short run. However I know already how the bike performs at 115V: 60kph and a very strong acceleration, although my weight is 92 Kilos. I remind that I am using a Crystalyte 408 motor and a 48V-20A controller, upgraded to stand 150V...
  21. A

    blown 36-48V controller upgraded to 150V

    After various attempts, I was able to fix the dead 150V controller. During a thorough check with the aid of a microscope, I found an apparent uncertain soldering of a mosfet leg. In my opinion the initial failure was probably due to this uncertain joint. The same bad joint could have caused also...
  22. A

    blown 36-48V controller upgraded to 150V

    The way this unhappy outcome happened is rather odd. As soon as the controller transformation was finished, I tested the bike at full throttle for several minutes at top 60kph speed. For what Fechter and Doc said, I suppose the current draw was very very high on that occasion, therefore the...
  23. A

    blown 36-48V controller upgraded to 150V

    Hi Fechter and Doc, of course you are right both of you and I was wrong. In my reasoning over watts, I did not consider that the motor coil impedance cannot be changed, therefore by increasing voltage, current also increases as per Ohm law I=V/R, while R stay constant. Sorry for the stupid...
  24. A

    blown 36-48V controller upgraded to 150V

    Hi Doc, I wish to point out that I tried the 150V modification for the following considerations: 1) My lithium pack delivers 115V 10Ah with elements connected in series. 2) Given the fact that I can't draw much current from the pack, the only way to get more power is to increase voltage, as...
  25. A

    blown 36-48V controller upgraded to 150V

    Yes, I upgraded a 36-48V 20A controller in order to stand 115 Volts delivered by my Lythium battery pack. The upgrading consisted in replacing 6 stock mosfets and three capacitors with six FDP2532 rated 150V 79A and the capacitors with three 100uF 200V. The bike got an enormous gain in...
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