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  1. RatoN

    Any reviews on new72v Clyte ctrl?

    Justin doesn't sell the above Clyte ctrl anymore... THAT kinda solves it.
  2. RatoN

    Cross-Canada by Ebike

    oh, you mean that ppl still watch tv and read 'news' papers? I keep forgeting about that. Scary notion ain't it :? If there was any main stream coverage of the trip, i could of wached it on youtube anyways, but I just don't like the spin these assholes put on things. A good idea is...
  3. RatoN

    Any reviews on new72v Clyte ctrl?

    Thx for the input Fechter! I remember that it was the mosfets that were the problem with previous models... now it's the caps!? Though i'll admit that 96+v is pushing it... Cannot beleive after all this time that Clyte did not make a more robust ctrl. That co got some major problems.
  4. RatoN

    Any reviews on new72v Clyte ctrl?

    Did anyone use the 36-72V 48A Start Immediate Digital Controller (IRFB4110 Mosfets) with 2x48v packs, for 96+v ? http://www.ebikes.ca/store/store_controllers.php (C7248SI) I'm interested in buying one, but i would like to know your opinion first.
  5. RatoN

    Cross-Canada by Ebike

    Congratulation on your amazing achievement Justin! Just spent the last 2hr reading this thread… wow, I hope you take the time to write a book someday. What an adventure. I’ve always pictured you in your shop not having enough time to ride your bike, being too busy fabricating...
  6. RatoN

    Electra Spitfire

    Hello Riders! Longtime no see :D I've been out of the loop for a while, mainly because i believe that we must get rid of the batteries as the energy source in order to make these e-bikes viable in the long run, but i'm still riding my Spitfire occasionally. The Spitfire has undergone some...
  7. RatoN

    48V 16Ah

    Geewiz. Didn't know that nicads could burn like that or explode! Maybe the batts you added were not exactly the same? Anyway get her back on the road 29a. Be gone April
  8. RatoN

    Factory upgraded Crystalyte controllers

    Calm down knoxie My comment got nothing to do with my personal experience modding the little black box. It has all to do with working at home and making a buck, while improving our common hubby… well ok, a whole planet is counting on YOU to catapult these funky machines in the major...
  9. RatoN

    Factory upgraded Crystalyte controllers

    *thinks out loud* ...if only some talented member would stop playing with himself and realize that he could make a living making better controllers, with all the ideas that surfaced in different treads, and realizing the general dissatisfaction of users… *shake head in disbelieve*
  10. RatoN

    What could have caused my motor to break?

    Fechter, What is the component inside the controller responsible for the hall sensors signals ''in'' and ''out'' (or is it just ''in'' maybe)? Could that be the problem in this case and mine? How can I test this component(s) on the board?
  11. RatoN

    What could have caused my motor to break?

    Yes, you will have to partly undo the hall plug to see the colours. Take a small screwdiver, partly undo the two screws. Then you should be abble to unscrew the plug and see the wires. To test though is from the controller. Black & yellow Black & green Black & blue -Hall pluged in -Power on...
  12. RatoN

    What could have caused my motor to break?

    well friend that make two of us who suspect the hall sensors in the hub. After 3 days of testing that is the conclusion i came to. Lucky you, you have extra components to test the hub with. Can't wait to read your findings and solutions. There is a useful link provided by 29a for testing the...
  13. RatoN

    What could have caused my motor to break?

    ...sounds familiar. My motor died on me also, but i was asking for trouble. Did it make a ratling noise before dying? Was is right after taking off from a stop? What voltage do you run?
  14. RatoN

    Mayday

    nope that was not it... ...probly the sensors
  15. RatoN

    Mayday

    Nope, no damage at all anywhere. BUT I did find bad motor wires at the axle level, where there is a sharp kink in the wires. The copper was exposed a little on 2 wires (green and blue)and MAYBE grounded out on the axle? I will put the motor back together again to check this out now.
  16. RatoN

    Mayday

    Yes. Did it again this morning with the same results. Actually came to the same conclusions this morning and tested ohm on red from plug on motor, to axle shaft and no there is no continuity. So that is not it. Even if one red wire leg, on one sensor, is VERY close to the body. Might be a bad...
  17. RatoN

    Mayday

    yep, did that and they all read 14v except the black wire. it's voodoo time The guy that was supposed to come with his 36v controller, busted his wheel on his way here, he had to walk home. I shit you not. Edit: I will do a ohm test from the board to sensors. Is it possible that when i...
  18. RatoN

    Mayday

    Just did a continuity test (ohm) from plug to sensors, on the all the hub wires, and they are all good. Same with the controller. It’s not a bad wire or plug. Let's open the bets shall we?
  19. RatoN

    Mayday

    Dudes, get this… Finally found the courage to open the 96v controller, expecting to find some blown components… NOTHING, it looks perfectly fine (considering that it looks like hell). ... i say it’s the motor. Still waiting to test it with another 36v...
  20. RatoN

    Mayday

    According to Justin's site, troubleshooting, a faulty 12v OR ground would result as the controller not powering the motor at all, which is my case. At the 12v (red hall wire) am i supposed to read 12v? It read 1.0v and the ground (black hall wire), how can i test it? It reads 0v ...getting...
  21. RatoN

    Mayday

    The results are exactly the same as above. Everything plugged in and power ON. When i spin the motor by hand, there is no fluctuation at all. The reading stays the same.
  22. RatoN

    Mayday

    - Unplugged the brake connector on the board and no changes. - There is no resistance when spinning the motor backwards. There is no juice going out of the controller.- A friend will drop by with a 36v controller later today. If it doesn’t work also, then it is the motor or...
  23. RatoN

    Mayday

    On the ctrler board there are 3 big wires (yellow, green, blue) am i supposed to get a reading with those? (yellow + green or yellow + blue) cause i'm not. There is no juice there and i thought i tested it before and there was.
  24. RatoN

    Mayday

    - No sparks, smoke or funny burn smells. Everything is super clean. - Brake switch not activated (yellow and green wire not touching) - Red light on the ctrler comes on, as it should. Imagine that you have everything ready to go for a ride and plugged in. Then you unplug the throttle or the...
  25. RatoN

    Mayday

    Ok so, fallowing my little 96v controller experiment gone bad, now i just want to get my bike on the road at 48v, with my old 36v controller. Problem: it doesn’t work anymore. More precisely…well I don’t know. - The 48v Nicad packs are fine. -...
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