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  1. N

    CYC PHOTON

    Yes, I have set it back, it’s easy with the shaft removed But then every time I try to insert back the axle, the bearing shield pop out again As the fit is extremely tight, the friction between the bearing shield and the axle is very high, even with the included grease (as recommended by CYC for...
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    CYC PHOTON

    Ok I have used a rubber mallet and the axle is now fully inserted but the plastic left bearing shield pop out in the process and I can't set it back :LOL: Moreover the axle O-rings seem to be pretty fragile (there are damaged by the sharp groove of the axle), CYC should include some spare
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    CYC PHOTON

    Hello, When assembling for the first time, is the ISIS spindle somewhat diffult to insert entirely by hand or it is just me ? Especially, it seems that there's a very tight fit between the axle and the left bearing cup plastic shield According to the hindesit post, I have the older left...
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    CYC PHOTON

    Yes but no one managed to connect to VESC Tool at this time
  5. N

    Thoughts on Paramotor parts list

    For my eppg, these are the parts I choose : ESC : VESC 75/300 Motor : T-Motor U15L Propeller : e-props 130cm Battery : 16s DIY li-ion The VESC is a very good one with lots of customizable parameters, and 300A of continuous amps with good cooling. Not so expensive But... that's still an...
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    Cyc x1 pro and stealth gen 3 announced

    Ok so... X1 Pro have better heat management and I believe it have a tougher sprag clutch too (280Nm max vs 150Nm) It appears the stealth is not a good choice for hard riding off road bike
  7. N

    Cyc x1 pro and stealth gen 3 announced

    What's best between the X1 stealth G3 ans the X1 Pro G3 for purely off road usage ?
  8. N

    CYC PHOTON

    The only reason I would buy a CYC is because I can't fit a Bafang BBSHD on my full suspension mountain bike, a Decathlon AM500S The sloped down tube on the AM500S bike doesn't allow enough ground clearance The only option is a motor that can be fitted inside the bike triangle, such as a CYC...
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    CYC X1 Stealth (NEW)

    That's sad to hear ! I thought the X1 Stealth was designed such as an overheating is very difficult in normal mountain bike condition What is your battery voltage ? Cranking up the voltage to 72v will reduce the copper losses Others having overheating issue with the X1 Stealth ?
  10. N

    "Copper/nickel sandwich" buses for series connections

    It will be interesting to know if 0.15mm copper is enough to support the future 4680 cells... probably not ! Maybe we will need 0.20mm, 0.25mm or even higher thickness copper and that's not possible to solder it reliably with the kWeld, even with nickel plated steel caps, slots, etc. We will...
  11. N

    GNG / CYC X1 Pro 3000w

    That's why they told me that's an unofficial date...
  12. N

    GNG / CYC X1 Pro 3000w

    I don't quite understand I have a mountain bike with a BB92 bottom bracket so I need to order the CYC X1 pressfit version, I don't have much choice And that's the case on most modern high-end mountain bikes Plus, it's actually easy to remove it with a standard pressfit removal tool After...
  13. N

    GNG / CYC X1 Pro 3000w

    They have just received the freewheel 2.0 parts for the pressfit version It is now possible to order the new freewheel with pressfit bottom bracket
  14. N

    kWeld - "Next level" DIY battery spot welder

    Interesting, I suppose 3000A is enough to solder 0.2mm+ copper sheet for very high current Li-ion application
  15. N

    GNG / CYC X1 Pro 3000w

    from now on, is new X1 Pro / Stealth ordered will be delivered with the v2 freewheel ? EDIT : I see there's an option for the V2 freewheel when ordering but it is not available if you select the BB92 bottom bracket option. I don't know why
  16. N

    kWeld - "Next level" DIY battery spot welder

    Well done How easy it was to tear off the copper/nickel sandwich ?
  17. N

    "Copper/nickel sandwich" buses for series connections

    0.15mm copper sheet may be the sweet spot if it's easy to weld with the kWeld
  18. N

    "Copper/nickel sandwich" buses for series connections

    I'm currently doing some soldering tests with the kWeld and 0.2mm copper sheet I picked 0.2mm copper sheet for my battery project but on second thought, it's probably overkill. The battery will be a 16S8P 21700 cells, with a max pulse discharge current of 250A-300A. From what I have read, 20A...
  19. N

    kWeld - "Next level" DIY battery spot welder

    Hi everyone, Does a cheap crimp tool like this one is enough to assemble the kWeld ? https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Battery-Cable-Crimping-Cutter/dp/B00MVE48Z6/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=hx-50b&qid=1604947739&sr=8-3
  20. N

    "Copper/nickel sandwich" buses for series connections

    0.2mm copper strip with a 0.1mm or 0.15mm nickel strip
  21. N

    "Copper/nickel sandwich" buses for series connections

    It's encouraging ! I'm wondering if it's possible to weld 0.2mm copper (or 2*0.1mm) with this method and the kWeld If someone is willing to do the test, I'm interested
  22. N

    Hardware temperature control tsdz2

    I have a brass gear so it's not an issue for me However, my TSDZ2 has been tested in very hilly terrain during a hot day this summer and I can say that the oil temp increases very fast, too fast.. This motor no longer match my mtb practise. I bought a new mountain bike and the bottom bracket...
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    TSDZ2 mid drive with 860C, 850C or SW102 displays only -- Flexible OpenSource firmware (Casainho code only)

    I have bought a spare controller in mid-may on Pswpower and it still have the STM8 microcontroller
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    New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

    Thank you for your feedback AZUR. I have updated my message The motor that we so much dream of is a torque motor with great power (1000W-1500W), that can be mounted on every bike and with low cost readily available replacement parts. This motor doesn't exist at this time. The Bafang Ultra seems...
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    New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

    I still have one of my TSDZ2 filled with 5W20 engine oil. In order to do so, I simply drilled a small hole at the bottom of the case (and motor side) and injected the oil with a syringe. Then I filled the hole with a small screw and that's all. I took an oil with a low viscosity to reduce the...
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