birdy bike

Not even that. Natural trail is proportional to wheel diameter, so tiny wheels need short fork offset.



I think the existing fork could work at long as a narrow hub motor with normal 100mm axle width is used. (And as long as the dropout eyelets are used to anchor torque arms.) Maybe something like the Q70, but with clamping dropouts fastened inboard of the bike's fork tips. That would allow a 13mm thick axle clamp.

I don't think going faster than pedal speeds on a donut wheeled bike is a good idea, though.
I think it definitely abandons the idea to put a frontal hub. One rear will be easier and focus my energy on design a front and rear fork that supports a 24 -inches wheel. I think that is a more interesting project, (you are invited to participate)
Thanks for your help for now.
So now could you recommend me a rear hub? My goals are traveling 40millas to 20mph
 
That's a weird listing. Pictures say geared, but text says non -geared:
1886707845-394839149.jpgScreenshot_20240313-041124.png

Building a wheel from a hub is way beyond me anyway, though. So that would be a no-go for me. It takes me 3 days just to true a wheel due to all the fiddly spoke tension adjustments. And that's way easier than calculating the spoke length, thickness, and pattern and buying all the right stuff like rim and nipples to build one.

Personally, I'd just go with a vendor that will let you order a certain size wheel built for any motor you buy. Then I'd buy a rear wheel in that bike's existing tire and axle size to avoid the strange front end suspension. Have done that plenty of times. Even for just acoustic bikes, since I prefer Nexus IGH hubs instead of exposed gear cassettes. Grin has a lot of info on Brompton conversions, which is an even smaller wheel, so it must be possible:

Barring that, just swapping out the front fork like Chalo mentioned to have a more common wheel size and no bizarre linkage suspension would be easier for me than building a wheel. It does have a bunch of fiddly bearing work, though, so I usually avoid it and just buy my frames with forks already on them.

With how cheap frames are off Facebook marketplace; and how experienced I am swapping out wheels, cranks, pedals, bottom brackets, cassettes, front cogs, chains, headsets, chain tensioners, cabling, and brakes; loss of a fork is equivalent to loss of a frame for me. I have forkless frames hanging off my garage ceiling even now where I don't know the right diameter fork steering tube and crown races to buy to fix them, haha.
 
That's a weird listing. Pictures say geared, but text says non -geared:
View attachment 349054View attachment 349055

Building a wheel from a hub is way beyond me anyway, though. So that would be a no-go for me. It takes me 3 days just to true a wheel due to all the fiddly spoke tension adjustments. And that's way easier than calculating the spoke length, thickness, and pattern and buying all the right stuff like rim and nipples to build one.

Personally, I'd just go with a vendor that will let you order a certain size wheel built for any motor you buy. Then I'd buy a rear wheel in that bike's existing tire and axle size to avoid the strange front end suspension. Have done that plenty of times. Even for just acoustic bikes, since I prefer Nexus IGH hubs instead of exposed gear cassettes. Grin has a lot of info on Brompton conversions, which is an even smaller wheel, so it must be possible:

Barring that, just swapping out the front fork like Chalo mentioned to have a more common wheel size and no bizarre linkage suspension would be easier for me than building a wheel. It does have a bunch of fiddly bearing work, though, so I usually avoid it and just buy my frames with forks already on them.

With how cheap frames are off Facebook marketplace; and how experienced I am swapping out wheels, cranks, pedals, bottom brackets, cassettes, front cogs, chains, headsets, chain tensioners, cabling, and brakes; loss of a fork is equivalent to loss of a frame for me. I have forkless frames hanging off my garage ceiling even now where I don't know the right diameter fork steering tube and crown races to buy to fix them, haha.
I already try with grin and was a bad experience , in the end I returned his product. I already make a wheel before long time ago , but i will take that risk. is what it is...
My concern is for the voltage and torque in that engine, I don't know if I could use it with my 52V battery. It's possible ? I suppose the controller must be the one that limits that, what controller should you buy? All controllers work with all engines? Is there any compatibility? Is there any controller that can be programmed? Tell me brands and models please
 
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