yOU SHOULD SEE IT FROM FRONT OR REAR. custom BUILT IN SPOILER OUT BACK, FULL FIBERGLASS FRONT, custom FOG and DRIVING LIGHTS, AND PROJECTOR BEAM HEADS, BUILT IN, no BARN DOOR HEADLIGHTS. cUSTOM HOOD. I WOULD like TO MAKE FULL TILT FRONTEND. bUT, THAT WOULD TAKE SOME ENGINEERING, and MONEY.
Getting close to electrification. New build.
- Thread starter Robocog
- Start date
markz
100 TW
Please lay off the caps. Its common courtesy.
Well, I am taking my time, got kapton tape, as the hot glue is wimpy, so I will wrap around the packs. IF it is stiCKYYYYYY tape, I will wrap with paper or such first. I will wrap the wires and nickel strip under it as well. So, only the ends are exposed, for checking PER CELL voltages. The tape will help with the HDDDDDDDDDD Velcro mountings. On the sides, I monkey snotted YOGA MAT, they float nicely. BUT velcro rips the hot glue.
Got a switch, and a green panel mount led. I had to REMAKE the pipe. I used a 3 inch ABS this time, as heating a PVC pipe makes CYANIDE. So, I heated it, inside and out, and used wedges to do it a little at a time. So, it is wavy and such, BUT it is thick, SO, I keep bending it till it is PERFECTIsh. So, I sand it till it is.
I used the junk first try, to band saw some seperators. I supeglued them down. Just enough to insert Mmeter probes.
I got originally made an XT60 one to four way converter, but it is bulky, so, I got a 30amp terminal strip, eight places. SO, I use a common wire tie for two separate areas. I then have the capability to detach the parallels. I can take out the units of nine cells for repair. They float and so will use wires to series across units. They will be soldered at middles, so they can quickly be detached for removals. I will make a plastic top, velcroed as well. To insulate the cells against any possible shorts.
So, I can remove the parallels, and per cell charge. This is done at the terminal strip. This is FAR better than a BMS. I use a 30 amp manual reset circuit breaker to guard against overamp.
SOOOOOOOO, I am waiting for my kapton tape, and then finally will finish.
Oh, I got some cool purple sparkly pain, and primer,
FIRST. Then I will use my auto paint later.
It is another say inch deeper, ovalized. But doesn't look much bigger. I tapped the cable guides on the bike, and used a bolt counterbore, with buttonhead SHCS s to make it look SLICK. SO, I wont make it quick change. I will live with 21 ah sssssss with aux attached. I must assure the two packs are full, before paralleling them for long rides.
IT looks pro, I will have almost no wires/cables showing. It took mega hours to heatform that ABS reliably and correctly. BUT, it HAD to be done. This prototyping takes a while.
SO, I have a switch, green led, 48 to 12 converter, all waiting for kapton tape.
Then one days work, and ride.
Oh, the aux pack will hang from the seatpost, using a seatpost clamp, with neoprene insert to neck down. Then, a simple piece that has a capability of snapping around the seatpost. Wont take much to stabilize. All forces will be on the clamp on top. I think I will do wood, and then I got some exotic veneer. This will NOT interfere with my TOPEAK rear rack and MTX bag. So, I can go to stores and wheel it thru, filling the bag, without putting bike down. They scream at that, liability you know.
I have a small hydration pack. It is pretty comprehensive kit I have assembled.
Got a switch, and a green panel mount led. I had to REMAKE the pipe. I used a 3 inch ABS this time, as heating a PVC pipe makes CYANIDE. So, I heated it, inside and out, and used wedges to do it a little at a time. So, it is wavy and such, BUT it is thick, SO, I keep bending it till it is PERFECTIsh. So, I sand it till it is.
I used the junk first try, to band saw some seperators. I supeglued them down. Just enough to insert Mmeter probes.
I got originally made an XT60 one to four way converter, but it is bulky, so, I got a 30amp terminal strip, eight places. SO, I use a common wire tie for two separate areas. I then have the capability to detach the parallels. I can take out the units of nine cells for repair. They float and so will use wires to series across units. They will be soldered at middles, so they can quickly be detached for removals. I will make a plastic top, velcroed as well. To insulate the cells against any possible shorts.
So, I can remove the parallels, and per cell charge. This is done at the terminal strip. This is FAR better than a BMS. I use a 30 amp manual reset circuit breaker to guard against overamp.
SOOOOOOOO, I am waiting for my kapton tape, and then finally will finish.
Oh, I got some cool purple sparkly pain, and primer,
FIRST. Then I will use my auto paint later.
It is another say inch deeper, ovalized. But doesn't look much bigger. I tapped the cable guides on the bike, and used a bolt counterbore, with buttonhead SHCS s to make it look SLICK. SO, I wont make it quick change. I will live with 21 ah sssssss with aux attached. I must assure the two packs are full, before paralleling them for long rides.
IT looks pro, I will have almost no wires/cables showing. It took mega hours to heatform that ABS reliably and correctly. BUT, it HAD to be done. This prototyping takes a while.
SO, I have a switch, green led, 48 to 12 converter, all waiting for kapton tape.
Then one days work, and ride.
Oh, the aux pack will hang from the seatpost, using a seatpost clamp, with neoprene insert to neck down. Then, a simple piece that has a capability of snapping around the seatpost. Wont take much to stabilize. All forces will be on the clamp on top. I think I will do wood, and then I got some exotic veneer. This will NOT interfere with my TOPEAK rear rack and MTX bag. So, I can go to stores and wheel it thru, filling the bag, without putting bike down. They scream at that, liability you know.
I have a small hydration pack. It is pretty comprehensive kit I have assembled.
Well, I got my first ride. Set it to assist, level 1. Pedaled decent cadence, and it is 18 mph. Shifted to high gear, and pedaled fastish, even pace, sustainable, and 25mph. That seems fast enough. Switched to assist level 2, and I barely pedal and it is 25mph. I think usually, I will keep set to level 1. I don't need to hot throttle much. It seems doable to use assist. I don't have brakes, or kill, as stopping pedaling, or for instant kill, back a smidge, and I am coasting.
I haven't given it a full charge yet. I can only imagine, that on level 1, pedaling constant, with a 14 ah batt, I will have mega range. Maybe 60 to 80 miles. Much of the time will be coasting to lights. I hook up my auxiliary bonus 7ah battery, and I am likely at as much as 120 miles. So, charging will be not that often.
I MAY get a larger front sprocket, IFFFFF 25 starts to feel slow, but not necessary.
I screwed up, and the full batt doesn't fit in the pod, so, I split it out, and one segment is in the front of triangle. So, I will get a surfboard chunk of foam, and fashion a sleek pod. Then, fiberglass it. Fit battery segment in it, and affix. It will look pretty cool.
Even though it is only 43 lbs, it does feel like an electric. But, when I trust it fully, lite offroad is no problem. I was going to get a second set of wheels, with knobs, but, the marathon plus tires I think are fine for all terrain. May go wide on tires, same kind. For cushion.
It is all I hoped and more. Fit the rack on, and it is fully per day shopping capable.
The effort needed to maintain speed, is well within my ill capacity. And, I expect I can sustain for hours and hours. So, twenty miles to beach, is totally doable. And, with full charge, mountain and hill areas are no prob.
At 25 mph, I expect I can keep up with most traffic, given my hypermiling at lights.
I haven't given it a full charge yet. I can only imagine, that on level 1, pedaling constant, with a 14 ah batt, I will have mega range. Maybe 60 to 80 miles. Much of the time will be coasting to lights. I hook up my auxiliary bonus 7ah battery, and I am likely at as much as 120 miles. So, charging will be not that often.
I MAY get a larger front sprocket, IFFFFF 25 starts to feel slow, but not necessary.
I screwed up, and the full batt doesn't fit in the pod, so, I split it out, and one segment is in the front of triangle. So, I will get a surfboard chunk of foam, and fashion a sleek pod. Then, fiberglass it. Fit battery segment in it, and affix. It will look pretty cool.
Even though it is only 43 lbs, it does feel like an electric. But, when I trust it fully, lite offroad is no problem. I was going to get a second set of wheels, with knobs, but, the marathon plus tires I think are fine for all terrain. May go wide on tires, same kind. For cushion.
It is all I hoped and more. Fit the rack on, and it is fully per day shopping capable.
The effort needed to maintain speed, is well within my ill capacity. And, I expect I can sustain for hours and hours. So, twenty miles to beach, is totally doable. And, with full charge, mountain and hill areas are no prob.
At 25 mph, I expect I can keep up with most traffic, given my hypermiling at lights.
markz
100 TW
Its good you got it going. You are hooked now!
I like to cruise at 25kph (15mph) and 35kph (21mph) is the max, at about 40 to 45kph (25-27mph) its too fast for me on the road. But I tend to go that speed if its safe, such as lots of room for my door length away from parked cars with plenty of room for cars behind me to pass. I've gone as fast as 60kph on my MXUS 3kW + 18fet Lyen (45A default)
I like to cruise at 25kph (15mph) and 35kph (21mph) is the max, at about 40 to 45kph (25-27mph) its too fast for me on the road. But I tend to go that speed if its safe, such as lots of room for my door length away from parked cars with plenty of room for cars behind me to pass. I've gone as fast as 60kph on my MXUS 3kW + 18fet Lyen (45A default)
Well, after using the bike for some time, no long rides, till I trust it, I stay PAS. I don't go past three of nine. It gets up to 25. The amps stay at ten or under. Got a luna charger, so I can limit it to 80% charge. I can shift under power. No prob with no cutoff on brakes etc.
It is just plain useful. Plush, light, takes corners like on rails. I ride with intermittent pedaling. Pedal, then coast, pedal.
I can go 48 tooth, and likely get to 32 or 35 cruise, but, I am not sure I have to.
On pas, and maybe two, I am faster than cars off the line. Up to maybe 18mph. This makes it SAFE to share the road.
I have only charged twice, and not even used the second charge. I think the batts will last ten years at this rate.
Even when it is hotter than hell, going 25 easy pedaling, doesn't get uncomfortable. I literally can get to places not too far, in great time, almost as fast as a car. My calves aren't too fat for pants by the time I arrive.
This is a HEART therapy bike, and it seems perfectly suited to the task.
The only concern now is determining the level of balance of cells, without BMS. I will not drain, and will USUALLY chare to 80%, so I think it is well within safe.
I got some GOOD wire, to redo the batts, with marine fine strand tough insulation. Tighten up the build some, and make it slightly more compact. Add the 48 to 12 v converter, and add the lights, f and r. With a switch, I got a flasher, and might add a light to back in addition.
If I bought a bike for four or more thou, I don't think I could do better.
I hit the throttle a few times, and while it seems a lot faster, I don't like it as I think about the MUCH faster drain. Keeping the amp draw to ten, and a 80% charge, I imagine I might get 1000 charges.
It is just plain useful. Plush, light, takes corners like on rails. I ride with intermittent pedaling. Pedal, then coast, pedal.
I can go 48 tooth, and likely get to 32 or 35 cruise, but, I am not sure I have to.
On pas, and maybe two, I am faster than cars off the line. Up to maybe 18mph. This makes it SAFE to share the road.
I have only charged twice, and not even used the second charge. I think the batts will last ten years at this rate.
Even when it is hotter than hell, going 25 easy pedaling, doesn't get uncomfortable. I literally can get to places not too far, in great time, almost as fast as a car. My calves aren't too fat for pants by the time I arrive.
This is a HEART therapy bike, and it seems perfectly suited to the task.
The only concern now is determining the level of balance of cells, without BMS. I will not drain, and will USUALLY chare to 80%, so I think it is well within safe.
I got some GOOD wire, to redo the batts, with marine fine strand tough insulation. Tighten up the build some, and make it slightly more compact. Add the 48 to 12 v converter, and add the lights, f and r. With a switch, I got a flasher, and might add a light to back in addition.
If I bought a bike for four or more thou, I don't think I could do better.
I hit the throttle a few times, and while it seems a lot faster, I don't like it as I think about the MUCH faster drain. Keeping the amp draw to ten, and a 80% charge, I imagine I might get 1000 charges.
