Have guts, need bike selection help pls

[exe]

So I have decided I need a new bike. I have the guts from a used system I bought, it's a HPC 5K watt system, 92v 13ah LMC battery, 75amp controller with HS4660 modded, laced to a 29" rear wheel <it's all from HPC I bought used from a member on the buy/sell forum.

I don't know much about mountain bikes, but I want to have a FS bike. I need a 135mm x 10mm dropout. I don't have the skills to make my own TA, so I'd like to employ ebike.ca torque arms or Doc TA, or some other prefab ones.

2008-2009 Devinci Ollie Freeride.
It's new from the LBS, going for C$1350 tax inclusive. The frame has a lifetime warranty.
The dropout is flat and large, so a DOC TA on both sides is looking good. Needle bearings.

http://www.devinci.com/archive/2009/montagne/Ollie_EN.htm
FRAME Ollie ; 160 to 175mm of rear travel (6.3 to 7 inches)
FORK Marzocchi 55 R 160mm
REAR SHOCK Fox Vanilla R
HEADSET TH No. 11
REAR DERAILLEUR SRAM X.5
FRONT DERAILLEUR
CRANKSET Truvativ Ruktion 1.0 BG Howitzer 34T
CHAIN GUIDE Truvativ Box Guide
FRONT SHIFTER
REAR SHIFTER SRAM X.5
CASSETTE Shimano HG30 8s 11-32T
CHAIN SRAM PC 380
PEDALS Wellgo DH alloy
FRONT WHEEL DareDevil 20mm/Maddux DDY/DT Champion
REAR WHEEL DareDevil 135mm/Maddux DDY/DT Champion
FRONT TIRE Tomac Blue Groove 26x2.5"
BRAKE Avid Juicy 3 203mm rotor hydraulic disc
STEM Daredevil DH 31.8mm
HANDLEBAR Devinci Riserbar 31.8mm
GRIPS / TAPE Velo Kraton
SADDLE Devinci MTB
SEATPOST Devinci Micro Adjust 31.6mm

2007 Rocky Mountain Switch 2.0, used $900
http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1556521/
http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2007&brand=Rocky+Mountain&model=Switch+2

Fork Brand & ModelMarzocchi 66 RC2, 180mm travel
Fork MaterialAluminum/magnesium/steel, single crown Rear ShockMarzocchi Roco TST R, 178mm travel
BrakesetAvid Juicy 5 w/203mm rotor brakes, Avid Juicy 5 levers

2009 Rotwild RED Two Extreme DH
http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1576045/?directtolastphoto
http://www.bikekatalog.pl/2009/rowery/481/Rotwild.RED.Two.Extreme/
http://www.rotwild.de/downloads/kataloge/rotwild_katalog_2008_de.pdf
2009 Rotwild RED Two Extreme DH mountain bike.
Forks - Marzocchi 888 RCV 200mm
Rear Suspension - Marzocchi 200mm
XT components, super beefy cranks
8 inch ORO hydraulic disc brakes

From the PDF, this German bike should have:
Marzocchi Roco R coil 9.5 x 3.0"
Shimano XT Rapidfire Plus
Shimano Saint 34T, E. Thirteen SRS
26x2.5
18.5KG

2011 Giant Anthem x29er 3 $1350
This one should fit my batteries int he triangle, and my wheels don't have to be relaced. It is an XC bike however.

4-inch travel, ultra lightweight aluminum, cross-country race bikes with Maestro suspension.
* Optimized 29er geometry for steady handling without compromise
* 4-inch travel Maestro Suspension
* Ultra lightweight Fluid-Formed ALUXX SL aluminum frame
* OverDrive headtube for maximum front end stiffness with no weight penalty
* Classic 71/73 degree headtube/seattube geometry for outstanding XC racing/riding characteristics
* Integrated PowerCore bottom bracket for superior lower frame stiffness
- FOX 32 F29 FIT RLC, tapered 15QR fork w/ 100mm travel, FOX Float RP23 shock
- Shimano SLX M660-series 10-speed drivetrain

2009 Specialized Demo 7 $1500. I read that it has a 6mm offset for the back wheel and the wheel will therefore need to be dished.
http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1349603/
http://www.specialized.com/ca/en/bikes/archive/2009/demo/demo7i
Fork: Rockshox Totem coil
Shock: Fox dhx 4.0
Wheels: Mavic 729 with Mavic Deemax hubs
Brakes: 2011 Avid Code R recently bled
Bars: Raceface Atlas FR 31"
sram X-9 derailleur with X-7 shifter.
Headtube angle 65-66 degrees.

 

[dogman dan]

I would choose the Rocky Mountain Switch. I like the type of suspension linkage it has, and if it looks like it's not ridden much, then the price is nice.

Looks to me like the rear dropouts would allow just bolting on a cheap front torque arm, with half of it removed.

26" though, so you are looking at a relace. It's not that hard to lace one up really, and if you must, take the result to a shop for final truing.

Nothing wrong with the giant either. Some triangle space is worth it's weight in gold. http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/anthem.x.29er/7508/44088/


So the giant if you have money, the switch if you don't. Or if the giant is rode to shit.

 

[MadRhino]

At 5 Kw, forget about simple torque arm. Dr bass dropout plates are solid enough, if you have room to fit them.

The Specialized Demo is the best ride by far, yet a complicated dropout job that you are not willing to do.

I would go for the Rotwild to build strong and simple. Easy to fit Doc Bass dropouts on this one, the geometry and frame stiffness are ideal for a powerful build.

 

[exe]

If changing tires is 1/10 in difficulty, how hard is it to fabricate a TA? I read somewhere that I only need an angel grinder, drill press and a file?

The Rotwild looks tough,it is a German bike and there are no local dealers for it. How would I service the frame for things like bearings and bolts?

 

[MadRhino]

You don't need to buy any of the manufacturers genuine parts on DH bikes. Suspension, BB, headset and brake components are common brands and all parts can be found locally or ordered at most online bike shops. Pivot bearings are also common and you will find them at the nearest bearing supply shop, faster, often better, and much cheaper than if you'd buy them at the bike manufacturer. All bolts are common metric.

Making adequate custom dropouts for the Demo is fine art of metal sculpture and I did it in a week, but on the Rotwild it is a simple flat steel plate job that can be done precise in a few hours. Fitting Doc Bass dropouts on it is only a matter of drilling 4 holes with a good bit.

 

[Drunkskunk]

If changing tires is 1/10 in difficulty, how hard is it to fabricate a TA? I read somewhere that I only need an angel grinder, drill press and a file?

The Rotwild looks tough,it is a German bike and there are no local dealers for it. How would I service the frame for things like bearings and bolts?

That depends on how you define what a 10/10 is. If building your own frame by first mining and smelting the ore, then forging it to steel, and then slowly drawing out and hammering the metal into tubes, etc, etc, the way old blacksmiths of ancient times did it is considered a 10/10, then a custom made TA is a 2/10.
If setting up an index shifter while on the side of the road, in the snow, in a blizzard is a 10/10, a custom TA is about a 7/10.

But with a 5000 watt system, Better look into Doctorbass TA's, or learn to weld, or get friendly with someone who has access to a waterjet. That's more involved than the simple TAs that can be wacked up with a drill and file.

As for bearings and bolts, get familiar with your local industrial supply houses. That's the sort of thing they will stock.

 

[dogman dan]

By the time I looked at all those bikes, I forgot how powerful he was going to be.

For sure, you need stout torque arms, preferably the kind that pinch, or at the least, they have to be super tight and very thick.

Again, the switch has the kind of larger flat area in back that will make that easier to do.