My Cromotor E-Bike Build -> more like a moped
- Thread starter madin88
- Start date
ecross said:
i can imagine the liquid cooling systems does a good job and temperaute problems belong to the past. maybe you can share some pics of the radiator and pump and how you have mounted these things to your bike. i would like to see^^
yes i have also ordered an axle from linas, but not the set for liquid cooling. the reason for it mainly was for phase wire upgrade and because of larger M16 10mm flat to flat part for less stress in the dropouts and more stability under high torque output.
since it makes lots of sense to upgrade the axle on this motor (mainly on 3T and 4T motor and if you generally going to push it really hard), i decided to design my own axle and will offer them soon here for sale together with sidecover with larger bearing flange.
this is prototype axle (later ones will have nicer surface). it has two nuts. one for the phase wires and the other for hall wires with material between so the thin bearings have better support. its made of 42CrMo4 steel:
sidecover with larger bearing flange and aluminum brake rotor spacer ring:
thanks mate 
well, the surface is not as beautiful as i wanted to have it, but it will be better at newer axles.
i will start a thread in the for sales section when im finished. first 5 axles (sets). the milled sidecover is included and if someone wants i can also offer high quality SKF /FAG bearings and disc brake spacer.
well, the surface is not as beautiful as i wanted to have it, but it will be better at newer axles.
i will start a thread in the for sales section when im finished. first 5 axles (sets). the milled sidecover is included and if someone wants i can also offer high quality SKF /FAG bearings and disc brake spacer.
BoomerChomsi
1 kW
Looking good and strong!
Any direction for selling price? 8)
Any direction for selling price? 8)
Relanium
10 W
Suggestion:
Why not mill cable space with toroidal cutter? Let's say 10mm diameter with 2mm or more radius edge (or whatever your dimensions are)
You have sharp edges inside axle and that is everything but beneficial.
Why not mill cable space with toroidal cutter? Let's say 10mm diameter with 2mm or more radius edge (or whatever your dimensions are)
You have sharp edges inside axle and that is everything but beneficial.
i do not know if my friend who makes the axle has access to such cutter, but i will ask him.Relanium said:
yes a larger radius edge would make the axle stronger and probably it makes it a bit easier to seal up the area where the wires enter the motor..
thanks for the input!
about price:
it will be about 100 USD incl. cover and M16 nuts.
bearings (widely available standard size), brake rotor spacer and probably also wires for phases and halls cost extra.
Relanium
10 W
No prob.madin88 said:
I'm a CNC programmer myself, and those cutters are quite common.
GiantEV
100 W
That's a nice looking axle. I'm definitely interested.
litespeed
100 kW
I would vote for "more is better" in this case. Saving a few grams would be almost pointless.
Nice design.
Tom
Nice design.
Tom
moonshine
1 kW
I'd like to get one of those axles if you're taking orders!
cwah
100 MW
good job
thats the thread about the axle:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=72720#p1098155
on the bike i have done some things:
- have swapped the Cromotor for the MXUS 3T -> that means 3kg less unsprung weight and almost identical performance yeahh
- the battery is now 20s12p samsung 25R with 2kwh (gives me about 60-70km range at 70kmh on ordinary roads)
- as the pot from the e-brake lever died very quick (two times!!), i built a new one with a hall sensor (of course also with a microswitch for the brake light)
- added a sealing to the carbon fiber covers for protection against rain and watersplashes
- built a new electronic box and mounted it with aluminum sheets to the cases (previous box only was fixed with zip ties to the frame). it contains a chinch plug for direct charge with a normal charger, and a 40A speakon connector for adaptto coil charging.
- the DCDC converter for onboard devices like light, horn etc is now connected to the Adpatto charge lead.
that means: if i turn on the light for instance, the display now shows 3W consumption. with the high beam also on it drains about 10W
- i have done a few other minor changes / improvements (incl a holder for the numberplate) and the bike is now 99% ready for typecast^^
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=72720#p1098155
on the bike i have done some things:
- have swapped the Cromotor for the MXUS 3T -> that means 3kg less unsprung weight and almost identical performance yeahh
- the battery is now 20s12p samsung 25R with 2kwh (gives me about 60-70km range at 70kmh on ordinary roads)
- as the pot from the e-brake lever died very quick (two times!!), i built a new one with a hall sensor (of course also with a microswitch for the brake light)
- added a sealing to the carbon fiber covers for protection against rain and watersplashes
- built a new electronic box and mounted it with aluminum sheets to the cases (previous box only was fixed with zip ties to the frame). it contains a chinch plug for direct charge with a normal charger, and a 40A speakon connector for adaptto coil charging.
- the DCDC converter for onboard devices like light, horn etc is now connected to the Adpatto charge lead.
that means: if i turn on the light for instance, the display now shows 3W consumption. with the high beam also on it drains about 10W
- i have done a few other minor changes / improvements (incl a holder for the numberplate) and the bike is now 99% ready for typecast^^
- the DCDC converter for onboard devices like light, horn etc is now connected to the Adpatto charge lead.
That is interesting. I have my EDF fan and other stuff like heated grips drawing a lot of power when in use. I should hook them through the adaptto charge lead.
Did you simply just connect into the charge lead for the positive and what did you tie into for the negative?
That is interesting. I have my EDF fan and other stuff like heated grips drawing a lot of power when in use. I should hook them through the adaptto charge lead.
Did you simply just connect into the charge lead for the positive and what did you tie into for the negative?
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
i have just taken the hint and wired my dc converter onto the negative charge lead for the negative, and positive battery terminal for the positive.
i can now see the power drain on screen if i hook up some device, like a fan ors some lights, but most things iv tried pulled so little power it was hardly noticable.
i can now see the power drain on screen if i hook up some device, like a fan ors some lights, but most things iv tried pulled so little power it was hardly noticable.
Offroader said:
the charge lead is the negative pole. this wire simply is soldered to the other side of the shunt so the controller can measure curent flow.
during charge or regen you see negative watts and amps on the display, and if you drain power over this lead you'll see positive power so it will be counted from SOC.
the positive pole of the DCDC i have connected parallel with controller positive (battery input).
ridethelightning said:
yes, the values are not that accurate at such very low power, but its nice to see it^^
for instance if i have the low beam on, it jumps between 0 and 3W. with the high beam between 7 and 10W or so which is not far off from real.
Relanium
10 W
With MXUS 3T and 24S16P, how fast are you going? What's you wheel size?ecross said:
And @madin88, are you still on 16'' wheels? What's your top speed now?
ecross said:
Compared to the VTC4, the 25R has around 20% more capacity and very similar performace (or voltage sag under load).
They stay in balance really well so far and no other problems.
My Max-E still has locked FW. I had a few problems with the 3T Mxus so i needed to fix that first before pushing it to the limits.
stupidly i had worsen the strength of the magnets when i put the fresh painted rotor into the oven to dry. it was only 80-90°C but too high for such thin magnets if there is no stator for flux return.
after swapping the rotor i noticed it still overheats quicker than normal which is because of non optimal controller settings.
When it gets warmer out here i will do manual controller fine tuning and than i think i will flash to unlocked and turning up battery amps
notger
100 W
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2013
- Messages
- 279
madin88 said:- the DCDC converter for onboard devices like light, horn etc is now connected to the Adpatto charge lead.
that means: if i turn on the light for instance, the display now shows 3W consumption. with the high beam also on it drains about 10W
/quote]
Wait a moment, you did what.??
Never heard of that possibility.
so you connected dcdc + to battery +, and dcdc - to the negative charge lead comming out of the adaptto controller, right?
so in that case you do not have "silent suckers" anymore, i guess.
Does bike light and other stuff gets counted to the remWH, or use AH in adaptoo then?
thats nice i guess this will be my next change
notger
notger said:
exactly!
of course the power monitor isn't that accurate at such low amps (only a few mA), but like mentioned i see -10W on the display if i have the lights on, or around 15W if i push the horn as well.
the wiring is nothing special nor does it take more time to do, but it's a nice thing
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