Trek 1.2 Lightweight High-power hybrid-unlimited pedal range

Grindz and/or Zukster,
Any up-dates on either of these builds?
 
Nice, hope to hear more about the performance and function as you progress.

I am using a Trek 7200FX as my tesy mule for my first build and will be moving it over to a Road bike as soon as I can, to contiue my commuter/cycling trainier project.
 
Maybe a few more notes for folks.

The use of Method's LCV boards and breaker board used backwards (to cut off battery power to the controller) has worked well. Saved our pack a few times already. I thought it was charged one day and I tried it a couple of times thinking something else was wrong. After hitting the reset button a couple of times and getting power for 10 seconds then none, I realized that the LVC boards and breaker were doing their job cutting off bike power as soon as any cell got too low ( < 3.0 volts).

2nd Bike I just built: http://zuki.net/picslive/Gray-Element-Ebike-Build

I've since built another Element 2008 bike (above) the same way and just got a second pack built. Its a lot of work wiring and bench testing the breaker function in the pack. The easiest way is to unplug one of the battery leads to an LVC board, then inject a 2.5V signal into each channel to make sure each cell pins trips the breaker. I should do a write-up on this. Methods told me how to make an DC 2.5 volt power supply by taking a 5.0 volt power supply and using a voltage divider on it with a couple of 1K resistors. Then you can put 2.5 volt and 5.0 volt leads off the power supply. Testing the way I described is as close to a real-world riding-down-the-road-test as you can get. It does not verify the battery leads but it at least verifies all your finished wiring and the proper functioning of the boards as intended.

I am not happy with the rims I got on the BMS kit that I mentioned that came with the Cute 100 motor kit. It worked okay with a 26x2.1 wire rim tire, but I could not seat a 2.2 Maxxis foldable tire I was trying to put on. So I bought a Mavic XM 319 disc rim (< 500g) and all is well. I used the spoke calculator at ebikes.ca, got them to cut me some spokes, then got my local bike shop to lace the cute 100 hub into the rim with a strong 3 cross pattern. The Chinese rim only had 1 cross and the spokes were not even touching - so the crosses were not adding any strength.

We've had no problems with the two Cute 100 hubs. I put about 70 grams of Fluid Film into one of them to protect against the rain. It does not leak out when the bike is lying sideways, like my older Bafangs did. So they appear better sealed than the old Bafangs. The new ones might be better. The last thing you want when putting a bike in your car is oil dripping everywhere.

I'm going to build a 15S pack from 4AH zippy cells. The motors are more than fine at 12S the way we ride and I think they're be okay at 15S/63 volts/KU63 controller capacitor maximum.
 
Grindz, if you're ever interested in testing out the range of your unlimited range bicycle, I have an outlet available in Lancaster, NY. :D
 
zukster said:
Maybe a few more notes for folks.

The use of Method's LCV boards and breaker board used backwards (to cut off battery power to the controller) has worked well. Saved our pack a few times already. I thought it was charged one day and I tried it a couple of times thinking something else was wrong. After hitting the reset button a couple of times and getting power for 10 seconds then none, I realized that the LVC boards and breaker were doing their job cutting off bike power as soon as any cell got too low ( < 3.0 volts).

2nd Bike I just built: http://zuki.net/picslive/Gray-Element-Ebike-Build

I've since built another Element 2008 bike (above) the same way and just got a second pack built. Its a lot of work wiring and bench testing the breaker function in the pack. The easiest way is to unplug one of the battery leads to an LVC board, then inject a 2.5V signal into each channel to make sure each cell pins trips the breaker. I should do a write-up on this. Methods told me how to make an DC 2.5 volt power supply by taking a 5.0 volt power supply and using a voltage divider on it with a couple of 1K resistors. Then you can put 2.5 volt and 5.0 volt leads off the power supply. Testing the way I described is as close to a real-world riding-down-the-road-test as you can get. It does not verify the battery leads but it at least verifies all your finished wiring and the proper functioning of the boards as intended.

I am not happy with the rims I got on the BMS kit that I mentioned that came with the Cute 100 motor kit. It worked okay with a 26x2.1 wire rim tire, but I could not seat a 2.2 Maxxis foldable tire I was trying to put on. So I bought a Mavic XM 319 disc rim (< 500g) and all is well. I used the spoke calculator at ebikes.ca, got them to cut me some spokes, then got my local bike shop to lace the cute 100 hub into the rim with a strong 3 cross pattern. The Chinese rim only had 1 cross and the spokes were not even touching - so the crosses were not adding any strength.

We've had no problems with the two Cute 100 hubs. I put about 70 grams of Fluid Film into one of them to protect against the rain. It does not leak out when the bike is lying sideways, like my older Bafangs did. So they appear better sealed than the old Bafangs. The new ones might be better. The last thing you want when putting a bike in your car is oil dripping everywhere.

I'm going to build a 15S pack from 4AH zippy cells. The motors are more than fine at 12S the way we ride and I think they're be okay at 15S/63 volts/KU63 controller capacitor maximum.

Zukster, so glad I rousted you out of your winter hibernation :D
Love your second build[great pics], but I need details :roll: [you'll be sorry you responded, but your builds are so nice you really should post them here. At least in the "Creations" thread, but then again, I'm bias to Rocky Mountain bikes]
Did you buy the Element 70 complete? The reason I ask is because it has a number of non-stock componates, like the mechanical brakes instead of the XT hydros. And the LX rear derailleur instead of the XTR Shadow. Is that because you went with a DNP 6-speed this time? Did you have to change the shifter, chain and chain ring as well?
Your seat post is high, is that a sm. frame or do you have a long inseam?
How is your on/off switch wired, thru the ebrake?

Sorry 'bout all the questions, but I have two Q100 36V 328 "fast winds" on order, I'm going to do a 2WD version. I'm a big guy and as you know, the chain stay on my '03 Edge is very wimpy and I'm not comfortable rear mounting a larger motor. That chain stay on the Element 70 is much beefier, although I noticed no torque arms. I guess they are really not needed for that motor/drop-out combo. Anyhow, I'm shooting for 27 - 28 mph on 13S lipo

Thanks a bunch for the heads up about the BMS Battery rims. I went with 24 incher's with the idea of going with Hookworms, but was wondering if they would mount. I guess I will stay under 2.1. You saved me some coin, thanks.
Interesting about the "Fluid Film", although I don't know what that is[will research]. Do you think it aids cooling? Did you use sealant on the cover?
Well, that's about it, till I think of something else
 
I bought the Element frame and rear shock for 450 and built the rest from spare parts. I'll be upgrading all the parts to Deore XT or XTR to eventually get the weight to < 28 lbs with batteries attached.

The freewheel is a 1990s Suntour Microlite that weighs 180 grams. Aluminum cogs, so it won't last as long. The 7,8,9 speed DNPs weigh about 600 grams though, and tend to rust quickly. The Microlite is a 7 speed 12-21 and this works well with an older Shimano 8 speed quick shift becasue the cog spacing for 6,7,8 speed Shimano indexed shifting is almost the same. 9 has narrower cog spacing and 10 even more, so you can't use those shifters. You can mix 6,7,8 drivetrain components, but not 9 and 10.

Chain is medium quality 8 speed SRAM. The seat post is not that high. I can put both feet on the ground. Its an 18" frame so perhaps it looks high. I find the smaller frame bikes handle better. Technically, I'm 5'10" and should be on a 19". The on/off switch and fuse are wired into the red battery controller wire. The switches are waterproofed. One with epoxy. One with shrink tube. They are 20 amp switches. You can get these already waterproof for 20 bucks at Interior Electronics in Vancouver, BC, Canada here. Its time consuming to waterproof a switch with epoxy, shrinktube, or RTV, so 20 bucks sounds good to me now.

You don't need 2 motors I don't think. One rear Cute 100 on 14S should be good enough. You could use 2x7S of those new Zippy Compacts from Hobbyking and two 8S Imax chargers. Unfortunately, you need 3 of Methods LVC boards for more than 12S though. Mine are 12S, but I'm 150 lbs. I've never had to use torque arms.

Here's a whole tread on the Fluid Film idea: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12984

With the Cute 100, I sprayed it into one of the holes before putting on the freewheel, before I put it on. I didn't bother drilling and tapping a hole in this case.
 
Back
Top