where can i find a v-break compatible 29" suspension fork ?
- Thread starter emaayan
- Start date
cal3thousand
10 MW
emaayan said:
Your options (nowadays) are very limited. You might find some used stuff. But for new items at 29" / 700c, they are moving all to disc. But here's couple lower end types that I found:
http://www.amazon.com/SR-Suntour-Fork-255mm-Black/dp/B004TN2FHK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1345588722&sr=8-1&keywords=700c+suspension+fork
This one has no steerer, you would have to press one in:
http://www.amazon.com/RST-Neon-T10-Black-Steerer/dp/B002P8A9BA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1345588722&sr=8-2&keywords=700c+suspension+fork
Those should be good for 700c street riding anyhow.
nliang
1 µW
Use your 26 inch fork if there is sufficient clearance for the 700c tires, you can then buy a pair of Mavic 700c or 29 inch brake adapter. This hopefully will solve your problem.
cal3thousand
10 MW
emaayan said:
He's thinking disc, don't mind his advice.
You're options are limited, my friend. Maybe ask Chalo what he would do as he's the champion of rim brakes. But he's not into suspension, so maybe there's a correlation.
Is there a specific reason you need to stay 29"/700c while using a v-brake?
ok, (taking a long breath), it all started when i got a 21" frame bycicle, i wanted 22" but the LBS convinced me there's no big difference between the two (i'm 6'3).
because i wanted an upright position i needed to raise the seat post higher then usual, however as a result, the handle bar were also needed to be raised, since adjustable stem wasn't enough i had to obtain a stem extender as well, when folks saw this combination the remarked it's not standard nor exactly safe, an added that a 29er fork, would be tall enough instead.
however since i had v-brakes, getting disc ones meant i had to replace the front hub (cause the axle needed to be thicker), and that would mean rebuilding the wheel, and eventually ending up with disc which i never wanted in the first place because i always had trouble handling then (like inserting the wheel back into place). i also understand that discs are weaker then v-brakes.
because i wanted an upright position i needed to raise the seat post higher then usual, however as a result, the handle bar were also needed to be raised, since adjustable stem wasn't enough i had to obtain a stem extender as well, when folks saw this combination the remarked it's not standard nor exactly safe, an added that a 29er fork, would be tall enough instead.
however since i had v-brakes, getting disc ones meant i had to replace the front hub (cause the axle needed to be thicker), and that would mean rebuilding the wheel, and eventually ending up with disc which i never wanted in the first place because i always had trouble handling then (like inserting the wheel back into place). i also understand that discs are weaker then v-brakes.
cal3thousand
10 MW
if you have a 26" wheel, a 29er forks v-brake bosses are in the wrong place any way.
Or do you have a 700c/29er to begin with?
If 26", just get a fork with bosses and add spacers below your stem before cutting the steerer. Maybe you don't cut the steerer at all
Or do you have a 700c/29er to begin with?
If 26", just get a fork with bosses and add spacers below your stem before cutting the steerer. Maybe you don't cut the steerer at all
cal3thousand
10 MW
You don't want to add suspension to that bike. You will ruin the tightly engineer geometry.
Your issue is that the handlebars are not in the right location. That means a new fork with a longer steerer and spacers to accommodate that. That will leave the geometry similar while extending the "neck" and bringing the handlebars higher, giving you a more upright position.
Your issue is that the handlebars are not in the right location. That means a new fork with a longer steerer and spacers to accommodate that. That will leave the geometry similar while extending the "neck" and bringing the handlebars higher, giving you a more upright position.
i would think adding ecospeed engine, a brooks heavy duty seat, and diamond shape battery took care ruining the geometry
and a suspension is a must, otherwise MY geometry will be ruined
i can feel it being ruined each time i go off a curve.
the full story was all this happened in my "old" bike the trek 7300 (that i used while writing the original message), as i saw the chain reaction i was about to endure i saw no reason why i shouldn't buy a new bike with a larger frame (trek 7.7 was the only one they had in 22.5"), and transfer my current better components to the new frame and have the ones that came with 7.7 frame on the trek 7300 to be sold (or have experiments on with my shifting idea).
and a suspension is a must, otherwise MY geometry will be ruined
i can feel it being ruined each time i go off a curve. the full story was all this happened in my "old" bike the trek 7300 (that i used while writing the original message), as i saw the chain reaction i was about to endure i saw no reason why i shouldn't buy a new bike with a larger frame (trek 7.7 was the only one they had in 22.5"), and transfer my current better components to the new frame and have the ones that came with 7.7 frame on the trek 7300 to be sold (or have experiments on with my shifting idea).
cal3thousand
10 MW
emaayan said:i would think adding ecospeed engine, a brooks heavy duty seat, and diamond shape battery took care ruining the geometry
and a suspension is a must, otherwise MY geometry will be ruined
the full story was all this happened in my "old" bike the trek 7300 (that i used while writing the original message), as i saw the chain reaction i was about to endure i saw no reason why i shouldn't buy a new bike with a larger frame (trek 7.7 was the only one they had in 22.5"), and transfer my current better components to the new frame and have the ones that came with 7.7 frame on the trek 7300 to be sold (or have experiments on with my shifting idea).
Get one of the two that I recommended. If you wanted a more robust front fork, you will have to move to disc.
BTW, those things you added only changed the weight distribution, not the geometry of the frame and the inherent handling characteristics
Chalo
100 TW
For that bike, don't mess with a suspension fork. There are several reasons it's a problem, so just don't.
If you need higher bars (or more to the point, a more upright seating position), the easiest and least expensive means of getting them is to switch to bars with more rise. 5" rise bars are easy to find, and steel ones cost $12-15 at a bike shop. You'll probably also need longer cables and housings if you raise your bars enough to satisfy.
Or you could get bars that pull back enough to give a more upright seating position. These are the bars used by more cyclists worldwide than all other kinds combined.
Another option is to use a stem riser, that simply raises the cockpit you already have by three to four inches.
If for some reason you need a LOT more rise, you can use BMX bars. Because their clamping diameter is smaller, you'll need to get a BMX stem too, or at least a pair of handlebar shims to take up the difference. I like CW style bars for MTB and hybrid conversions, because their design offers a lot of room for brake levers, grip shifters and the like, plus lots of room in the middle for lights, bells, and other accessories.
Chalo
If you need higher bars (or more to the point, a more upright seating position), the easiest and least expensive means of getting them is to switch to bars with more rise. 5" rise bars are easy to find, and steel ones cost $12-15 at a bike shop. You'll probably also need longer cables and housings if you raise your bars enough to satisfy.
Or you could get bars that pull back enough to give a more upright seating position. These are the bars used by more cyclists worldwide than all other kinds combined.
Another option is to use a stem riser, that simply raises the cockpit you already have by three to four inches.
If for some reason you need a LOT more rise, you can use BMX bars. Because their clamping diameter is smaller, you'll need to get a BMX stem too, or at least a pair of handlebar shims to take up the difference. I like CW style bars for MTB and hybrid conversions, because their design offers a lot of room for brake levers, grip shifters and the like, plus lots of room in the middle for lights, bells, and other accessories.
Chalo
i don't need a suspension fork for an upright position, i need it to ... well.. suspend the shock from going and and of the side walk and road, i already tried using a stem raise WITH an adjustable stem however i was told it's not safe.
Chalo
100 TW
I can't help you then, except to note that most folks can transition from street to sidewalk and back again without the aid of suspension.
Don't ride on sidewalks at roadway speeds, either. It's a bad idea, and it's not fair to other sidewalk users.
Chalo
Don't ride on sidewalks at roadway speeds, either. It's a bad idea, and it's not fair to other sidewalk users.
Chalo
cal3thousand
10 MW
In that case, get a set of balloon tires. They act like suspension without the other issues. A good one to look at is Schwalbe Big Apples.
http://www.schwalbetires.com/balloon_bikes
http://www.schwalbetires.com/balloon_bikes
superdave
10 mW
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2010
- Messages
- 28
I think you're getting some questionable fitting advice. First off, any LBS that says 2.5 cm makes no difference in sizing is either clueless or lying and you should avoid any future interaction with them. Second, raising the seat to get a more upright position doesn't make much sense. Lowering the saddle would make things more upright (at the expense of your ability to pedal efficiently). If you do significant pedaling, you need to set the seat height correctly first, then adjust everything else. Set the seat so that with the crank arm at the bottom of its stroke and your leg fully extended (while seated normally), your heel just reaches the pedal. Note, you'll want a helper to steady the bike while you do this. If you primarily use the motor and don't pedal much, drop the seat an inch (or even two) from that ideal setting.
On the bars, there's nothing wrong/unsafe with using a good extender if that's what it takes to put them in a comfortable position. In addition to raising, consider a shorter, or more angled stem to bring them back closer to you. Some of the Trek 7300s I've seen actually have a stem with angle adjustment so you can move the bars up and back at the same time.
As for the suspension fork, any 29er fork tall enough to make a big difference is going to really throw off the geometry. It's going to angle back the seat tube and bring the bottom bracket up and forward. Your upper body will be more upright, but you'll still be just as "bent" in the middle. And the bike will still be a hard-tail so you may not get the kind of comfort improvement you're looking for. It will cut down on the jolts to your hands/wrists, but in an upright riding position, you don't have much weight on the bars to begin with.
If I were you, I'd keep the bar riser, tell your friends that they don't know what they're talking about, and invest in a good suspension seatpost like the Thudbuster. Expensive, but probably less than a new fork and likely much more effective.
On the bars, there's nothing wrong/unsafe with using a good extender if that's what it takes to put them in a comfortable position. In addition to raising, consider a shorter, or more angled stem to bring them back closer to you. Some of the Trek 7300s I've seen actually have a stem with angle adjustment so you can move the bars up and back at the same time.
As for the suspension fork, any 29er fork tall enough to make a big difference is going to really throw off the geometry. It's going to angle back the seat tube and bring the bottom bracket up and forward. Your upper body will be more upright, but you'll still be just as "bent" in the middle. And the bike will still be a hard-tail so you may not get the kind of comfort improvement you're looking for. It will cut down on the jolts to your hands/wrists, but in an upright riding position, you don't have much weight on the bars to begin with.
If I were you, I'd keep the bar riser, tell your friends that they don't know what they're talking about, and invest in a good suspension seatpost like the Thudbuster. Expensive, but probably less than a new fork and likely much more effective.
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