That looks awesome

I bet my 4-pawed-companion would prefer such a comfortable place, too...
That looks awesome
Thanks Greendog, it's a good idea, would make a good beer hauler. Actually the LTO batteries remind me a bit of thin long beer cans
Actually I've got a big German shepard Mastiff X, mmmm now you've got me thinkingElektrosherpa wrote: ↑Jul 24 2021 5:08pmCrazy build.![]()
In my eyes, all the free space behind the rider just waits to be used:
2nd seat, storage space, dog place... whatever...![]()
This is one of the coolest ebikes I’ve seen. I love it ! Nice work.
I was lucky and the new calipers fit nearly perfectly where the previous calipers were. A little adjustment and the wheels spin freely and stop with little effort.thundercamel wrote: ↑Aug 08 2021 7:44pmWere the brake pads on yours also to far away from the axle to have all of their area swept by the rotor? I find that to be the case on several bikes I work on, and usually remove washers to move the calipers closer to the axle.
Yep, you may be right. However, the part of the bike I wanted is the part I kept; the steel frame. I carefully inspected all the welds before starting and it looks good. Plus the steel frame makes for a very sturdy build. And after putting a few hundred very comfortable miles on it, I am enjoying it very much. Is there something specific about the frame you see as a problem or are you just throwing shade because you can?Chalo wrote: ↑Aug 08 2021 10:33pmThe build seems reasonably okay from what I can see. The bike is horrible and will quickly make you regret using it.
If you're the first person who cared at all about the bike, or spent a nickel on it that wasn't minimally necessary, maybe ask yourself why. That kind of bike can be fixed up, but what's wrong with it can't be fixed.
You kept the fork, which is a very nasty piece of work. Not only do those things develop rusty stanchions very quickly, but they have plastic bushings. It takes very little time for them to develop a lot of looseness and play. The only damping they have is from sliding friction, which becomes more and more inconsistent as they wear (alternating at random between no damping at all, or binding and effectively being locked out). Putting decent brake on this fork is harder on the bushings than the lame stock brake would have been.
Yep. That is why the front fork is probably the first thing I will upgrade when it starts to act up. As of right now, it is working well with no lateral (side to side or front to back) play in the front wheel.Chalo wrote: ↑Aug 09 2021 9:59amYou kept the fork, which is a very nasty piece of work. Not only do those things develop rusty stanchions very quickly, but they have plastic bushings. It takes very little time for them to develop a lot of looseness and play. The only damping they have is from sliding friction, which becomes more and more inconsistent as they wear (alternating at random between no damping at all, or binding and effectively being locked out). Putting decent brake on this fork is harder on the bushings than the lame stock brake would have been.
Chalo wrote: ↑Aug 09 2021 9:59amThe steel used in the frame is chosen only for being cheap, so it's a crapshoot. I've come across some whose dropouts bend out of alignment if you look at them wrong, and others with extremely strong dropouts that are difficult to align, but were out of alignment to start with. The frame tubing is usually pretty soft, but often so thick and heavy that it does the job (at pedal bike speeds anyway). But BSO frames are seldom straight, and to this day many of them use front opening horizontal dropouts so that the wheel can be fudged more or less to center despite the rear stays not being centered.
Thanks, I am really enjoying it. I realize that cheap frames are just that, cheap. But a cheap steel frame seemed like it might work as long as there were not any measurable or visual problems. The hardware on the bike is quite lousy, but most of that has been replaced. Even the races for the bearings in the wheels were not completely smooth (a little work corrected that). So although the bike is cheap and cheaply made, it is bicycle shaped which allows me to make it run/ride nicer than it was when it came out of the BSO factory.
You're right, I've had fine luck with hydraulic brakes, and was referring to the original brake calipers. I missed that you upgraded in my first read through.
No problem. I'm digging the hybrid hydraulic brakes (brake cable to the caliper with hydraulic fluid in the caliper only). It took a day or two till I figured out how to properly adjust the caliper; it first it had no grab at all. Then I found the piston adjuster and that made all the difference!thundercamel wrote: ↑Aug 11 2021 11:09amYou're right, I've had fine luck with hydraulic brakes, and was referring to the original brake calipers. I missed that you upgraded in my first read through.
I love the pun!
No snob here. Have a Kent tandem bike on the way $230 with shipping. That"s cheap. Will try to make a road recumbent out of it. Wanted it for the load capacity. Will need to replace all the cheapest parts with better ones.by thundercamel » Aug 12 2021 8:46pm
Plenty of us including myself are not bike snobs and love cheap department store bikes as a starting pointIn my opinion any ebike with pedals is a step in the right direction.
As I understand it, steel frames and forks are an advantage if your setup will give more grunt than a well seasoned cyclist. They stand up to abuse more.thundercamel wrote: ↑Aug 12 2021 8:46pmPlenty of us including myself are not bike snobs and love cheap department store bikes as a starting pointIn my opinion any ebike with pedals is a step in the right direction.
Sounds cool. Definitely post pics when done.
That's what I read also. That is why I took the BBSHD off an aluminum Trek and put it on a steel Schwinn.TrotterBob wrote: ↑Aug 13 2021 1:27pmAs I understand it, steel frames and forks are an advantage if your setup will give more grunt than a well seasoned cyclist. They stand up to abuse more.