Endless Sphere

If by "working with no issues" you mean that the throttle's battery power level meter lights worked, and the switch on the throttle used to turn them on and off, then perhaps there is now a wiring fault that broke the connection from battery or controller to that switch/meter. Or if it got wet insid...

Looks liek we're past the rains, and within the next few days will be back to the 110-115F+ temperatures...but with high humidity so ti feels a lot higher than that. :/

Was nice while it lasted.

AFAIK the entire history of any post edited with that feature was completely lost with teh old version of teh forum. I don't know why all that information wasn't preserved, but I doubt it can be recovered.

I have ran it a few times after this issue and it still didn't charge and did the on and off over and over without charging the battery. Does it do this if it's not connected to the battery at all? If so, then there's rpobably a break in the wiring from charger to battery somewhere (anywhere in the...

Well, if the controller shuts down after the battery sags to 44v (most likely it's sagging a lot farther than that, but the system doesn't update the display rapidly enough to show you), then it *does* run on 48v. A 13s 48v battery typically runs about 52v fully charged, and drops down to about 40v ...

Is it necessary to have the fuse connected directly to the battery + terminal? Or can have a small bit of wire connecting the + terminal to the my fuse? You can do it however works best for your system. There's no hard rules about it, ;) just whatever your best judgement is based on your system's d...

EDIT: actually, it looks like my older one is a V2: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67833&p=1237062&hilit=mxus+cruiser#p1237062 and it's the 3T version. So that means my V3 is a 4T. The v1 presumably also has the flat magnets, so since the stators swapped in mine ok, I'd assume...

Ah. I guess that's what I get for assuming the manufacturer would care enough about selling their products to keep their site up to date. ;) In that case, the best thing I can recommend is asking the manufacturer themselves, and if they don't care enough to say, then you might have to look for someo...

The satiator does work on NiCd batteries, but it won't magically make your battery better. Sometimes charging and discahrging and recharging a NiXX type pack will help it some, but not usually bring it back to how well it worked before. Your original charger can probably do this as well as the Satia...

brumbrum wrote: ↑

Jul 18, 2018 5:02 am

One i havent heard for a few years... Good chance of electric shock through your bike frame.

Depending on how you wire it, there *is* a chance of that, under the right (wrong) conditions.

If it's built right, though, not much chance of it happening by accident.

If you want some useful troubleshooting method info, you can look up my Volgood / Cammy CC / Vpower pack repair threads.

some posts with info on the site/etc

search.php?keywords=*Enduroebike*&terms ... mit=Search

Intermittent problems are almost always in the wiring or connectors. Could be something loose, or something spread apart, broken inside the insulation but connects when in right position, etc. Occasionally it is bad solder joints on boards or connectors. Very rarely it is broken leads on parts mount...

From the symptoms, the problem is in the battery itself--it simply can't handle the current draw needed to run the bike with this controller, at least with whatever settings it has at present. Do you have a way to measure the actual current flowing from the battery under load? A wattmeter is easiest...

You'd have to check with your state, county/etc, and local city/etc laws to see what RVs are defined as, and what ebikes are defined as. Many governments have all of their legal code on the web in searchable format, kept up to date. Should be easy for you to find and look up.

If the battery is fully charged already, it sounds like the charger is just turning on and off to balance the battery; shutting down as current drops below it's shutoff threshold. However, it could also be the BMS that is shutting off and turning on repeatedly due to a cell that's too high, so the B...

There should be some caliper adjustment to allow clearing the rotor without wearing the rotor and pad to do it. :/

It mgith work fine, for a while, or forever. Or it might blow something the first time it's used. Only way to find out is to try it. :) Plenty of people have run controllers at their ragged edge, and performance and reliability varies depending on the quality of the parts used, and the design of the...

No, but it's certainly possible for the system to have a separate "calculation" for the speed limit and the speedometer reading. In that case, it would ignore the wheel size and other settings, and assume you have whatever wheel size it was programmed with originally, and calculate speed based on mo...

Check out the Learn tab, Troubleshooting link, on http://ebikes.ca . It has testing of halls, etc., that should help.

Does the controller come preset to exactly the settings you know you want to use? Or: Do you know exactly what settings you want the controller to have? If not, you would want the link to be able to change them, to experiment with different settings as you tune the bike to the way you want it to wor...

Have you checked their website? It includes a list of distributors that include EU.

Current limiting is done in the controller, so if it's a "30A" controller, then 30A is the approximate battery current drawn at max. (it could peak a bit higher). So whatever it's rating is..... What speed does the driven wheel go if you put the driven wheel off the ground and run it at full throttl...

All the versions are basically the same externally. I have a v1 and a v3, ones a 3T and and the other 4T, I dont' recall which is which; the stators are interchangeable between rotors, and I think I actually have them swapped right now. The only part that is different enough between them to need swa...

Some points: If a fuse (or breaker) isn't rated for at least the voltage it's used on, there is no guarantee it will be able to break the circuit under load. Heatshrink should be fine at that voltage as long as it's secured so it doesn't vibrate and rub on a frame or something; my fuse is bolted to ...