Endless Sphere

If you're willing to open it up, you could check for broken wires, or wires connected to the wrong places. (for the latter, you'd have to compare to the working one, and I don't recommend opening that just to check things out because there is always a risk of breaking something, or ESD damage, etc)....

Discharge rate of the batteries you can't really know until you know their capacity (assume they are half their original capacity, and just grin at any extra you get), *and* the actual power usage of your system in your actual conditions (which we can guesstimate, but it requires numbers from you to...

I added another B- plug that bypasses the BMS and shunt, so I can go either way, but it doesn't seem to make any difference yet. If it was a BMS issue, the BMS would shutdown power to the whole system. The list of likely issues you might have are, in no particular order: --battery sags in voltage s...

In my experience, some tubes are just evil* and need to be cast away. Those tend to become tire liners, if they're thick enough. If not, they may become vibration padding in one thing or another. ;) But suffering the same conditions you describe (persistent leaks despite correctly mounting/dismount...

I was hoping for a document laying out the controller's cables, including the purpose of each (e.g., + 5V, gnd, or "connect to speed potentiometer") , its color, and the connector type. Very very few give this info. Grin Tech at http://ebikes.ca has it for most of their stuff. It's the on...

Now, before you decide which thing to build:

What kind of range do you need?

At what speed?

Under what riding conditions?

Those are going to primarily determine whether any of these things are practical for your needs.

Regarding the kit, it's probably better than the typical gasoline engine kits; I see at least one rider with one of those on the side of the road in my area trying to fix something about the drive every week or two. I don't know what percentage of riders that is, but I only hear them a couple times ...

The kit that I bought as shown in the file attachment, is for 36v at 450w. If each module is 8v fully charged and I connect four then I have ~32v so it seems fitting. But aside from that I don't know if I'd be able to connect it to my kit somehow using a BMS (Battery Management System) and any othe...

Do you need to know it's operating temperature while in-use? If so, and you can open the motor, install a thermal sensor (usually a 10k NTC thermistor, often with beta of around 3900, like with the Cycle Analyst or various motor controllers that have thermal sensing built in). Or even an old BBQ gri...

Depends on your definition of "good". If you mean one that provides the specified voltage and capacity, many do that...but they may either not provide them at the current-rates they say they can, or they may not provide long lifespan, etc. If you mean one that can provide everything the se...

The 50v ones near the FETs must not be on the main battery rail; they couldn't handle the regular 13s voltage much less anything higher (they would work for a 10s 36v battery). The biggest caps are 63v, and those are the main battery input caps, plus the one that's on it's side by the FETs; so they ...

There have been BMSs (especially in OEM complete systems, like whole bikes, etc) that do exactly that, to avoid the possibility of fire if there has been tampering, or if there has been an event where any cell went below the safe low voltage limit (not just the regular LVC), potentially making it un...

I'll be installing a smart BMS which might allow for some adjustment of the charge/discharge parameters. My thinking may be flawed, but I thought it would be best to look for a charger that isn't rated too low yet avoid one with excess amperage and having to totally rely on the BMS to reduce the ch...

Some notes: I can't do a complete analysis of the circuits on that board, especially because I can't see both sides so many traces are not visible, and a number of small transistor-style components' markings aren't visible, but the right half looks like a typical analog-type brushed motor controller...

Just to be clear--you have one working display, and three that have this problem? If it is a setting (I don't know anything about the FW / settings), then you should look at your original settings for your working display, vs the three that don't work. Alternately, if all three nonworking ones are a...

Ahh so you're a musician too? I'm not sure "musician" applies; perhaps "composer" might; sound-musher could be more appropriate. :lol: I wouldn't say anything I do is great, but some of it is good enough to listen to. I use an ancient version of SONAR (was a prolific beta tester...

It is pretty unlikely for the cadence sensor to fail (the TS is more complicated and more likely to have a failure....plus it is likely that the system requires both TS and C sensors to be outputting valid data for the system to allow the bike to operate (or at least not to provide any error message...

I don't know anything about their software, but I have seen various devices composed of mulitple interdependent but separate units that have different firmware "version numbers" on each unit. Presumably there are different developers (or at least projects) for each unit (display, controlle...

Any wattmeter that supports the voltage your system runs at (more than whatever the max full charge is, to give some margin), and that can handle the max current the controller would ever draw from the battery. Best is if it has a "memory" like the Cycle Analyst that doesn't erase itself w...

There's nothing to "reset", AFAIK. The only settings it has are the learn wires; if you get no response from it using those, or the throttle, etc., then something else is likely wrong. Most commonly, either the keyswitch/ignition wire is not connected (usually to battery positive), or an e...

Came out to the same tire being flat again this morning. :( Gettin' tired of this. Was a brand new tube and brand new tire; didn't even get a week out of it. Tried slime as a quick fix (don't like it but sometimes it works to get me somewhere till I can spend the hour+ to swap out the tube). No go. ...

I tried disconnecting the TS today. As predicted - no assistance at all, regardless of the settings. So the cadence sensor isn't working at all. Or the system requires the torque sensor to be active for it to work, even if it is designed to be ignoring the readings in some modes, it might still req...

I don't know anything about cryogenic treatments of metals, so I can't answer that. But this shaft still has mechanical design issues creating stress risers. If you actually put a load on the cranks by really pedalling, and not just using it as a pedal-controlled moped, the stress increases and may ...

Some hypothesizing below, since there isn't a definite specific failure these symptoms point to. It sounds like the controller is "going to sleep"; timing out, after those four seconds. There are systems that timeout after detecting no wheel movement for a minute or two, to save power and ...

The lowest amps is the limit for the system, so you would need to decrease current draw to the lowest of the two; 70a in this case. If a BMS of a battery that is in series with another battery shuts down for any reason, it now has the full voltage of the entire system across it the now-open-circuit ...