Endless Sphere

That's good news! It would have to follow FEMM, but it's good to know that some extra steel can be trashed. :thumb: Maybe even be turned into a cooling feature somehow. Heres a quick modification on the last drawing that shows what it might look like, sort of,.. I had a hard time figuring out how t...

Dang, sorry to hear that! I'm still 100% in, whenever you're ready.

https://usaknifemaker.com/titanium-scre ... 0pack.html

Bout $35 with shipping.

8-32's are actually pretty available! Little spendy for the size, but I think still reasonable for the project. Standoffs, however, I'm not sure. Don't think I've ever seen that size of ti standoff.

I keep saying it, but looks great! You're chugging right along!

Might be a dumb question, but would Ti screws help significantly with the eddy current issue?

Looks good! Agreed with CNC probably being the best. Laser won't do it well and waterjet will likely delaminate it. Perfect part for a router with a vacuum table.

Been there, done that. Sorry to say messing with the rsf isn't worth it. I used an my1020 brushless setup on 64V nominal and 200A. It was a blast, but the suspension is sooo, so bad. The front brake bracket will bend and you'll smoke pads in no time. You really need scooter-style brakes for it, then...

You do nice work with that little guy! You should add a china DRO and Aloris toolpost clone. Counting ticks and using indicators is fine, but it is so much faster with a DRO.

Really good progress!

Wooooo, good start! I'm not envious of doing that on South Bend (10?). We used to have an early 1900's era Lodge and Shipley lathe that was given to us by a friend. While it was incredible that they were able to produce it at the time, it was severely lacking for modern machining, haha. We run an 80...

G10-FR4 green Garolite, 1/4" should do it. If I have to, I can bond a smaller Alum. reinforcement plate to one side. Screws should go up against a metal disc anyway, so they don't crush the softer garolite. Coleasterling, speaking of machine shops,.. can I contract your services to make the cores f...

I knew you'd get the hang of it! You're making some great progress, keep it up!

What's the green plate the cores bolt into made from?

With more of these cars ending at the scrap yard every year it might be profitable for someone to design a CNC made motor casing and axle for these motors. And to find a suitable controller to drive it. That's exactly what I had originally planned to do. The motor is large enough that machining the...

Years ago, there were some guys that reported using them at around 60kW burst in a racing application. They never provided details and disappeared. I worked on a housing for awhile before moving to some other hybrid motors. I'll finish the IMA project at some point, but it is low on the list.

Though not *technically* suitable, I run fusion on my at-machine computer just fine, which is an older Thinkpad t420 with an i7 and 10gb (unbalanced) memory. I use t420's at my machines because they are stupid cheap on ebay and I know they'll get trashed with all the metal dust in the air. The last...

Though not *technically* suitable, I run fusion on my at-machine computer just fine, which is an older Thinkpad t420 with an i7 and 10gb (unbalanced) memory. I use t420's at my machines because they are stupid cheap on ebay and I know they'll get trashed with all the metal dust in the air. The last ...

https://www.autodesk.com/campaigns/fusi ... -hobbyists

Make an account and I believe you'll get a hobbyist license key at some point. It is definitely 100% free, not just a 30 day trial, though I know it says 30 days upon install.

I use very few keyboard shortcuts and do far more gestures. I think you should just dive in. You can worry about assigning shortcuts later. Start with basic shapes. Draw a 2d rectangle and extrude (push-pull) it to a cube. Draw a circle and extrude it to a cylinder. Draw a shape and revolve it to a ...

Yep, I like it.

I think it is mostly a waste of time to try to create any sort of finished hand sketch if you know you're going to make a solid model. Napkin sketch it, then start making geometry in CAD. I really think you'll pick it up quickly enough to save significant time.

I was reading along and looking at pictures and thought, "Dang, that end board looks sketchy." Great thought, but I agree, probably better to move away from it unless you could make some sort of bracket to screw it to the other board.

As long as the program can export the model as an STL file, pretty much any slicer will make code from it. STL is a horrible format and I'm not sure why it became the go to format for 3D printing. Fusion will export .stl files and I believe even has plugins for slicing in the software. The real powe...

Well darn, makes sense when you say it.

So maybe instead of steel, use the fiberglass we've been talking about as the face sheets?

Sorry, just a sandwich panel using the smc as the core and a set of traditional lamps as the face sheets.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandwich_panel

I have an idea for this, but it would require some testing. What about a single traditional lamination on either side of the powdered core? Say 0.2-0.3mm, laser-cut. Machine the powdered iron into whatever shape we need to be able to use the surplus material(probably the same trapezoids we're using)...

Nothing to add to the last few posts other than that a more round geometry is easy to do and probably better for stress concentrations on the cores. External sharp corners are generally bad just like internal sharp corners. The threading test worked well, but I found another issue in that on tighten...