Endless Sphere

I used a slotted cast iron right angle block on the mill table, and turned an aluminum center holder, so I could mount and rotate it vertically. Marked and pre-punched the holes, set the center line with the handle, and then eyeballed the rest. Held my breath a lot. I wound up buying some generic c...

Looks great, sir! How'd you end up holding it for drilling and how'd you index it? Cobalt drills? It saws surprisingly well. We cut A LOT of 3" bar back in the day with a chinese, controlled feed horizontal saw with lenox blades. Then we switched to a fully-automatic Hydmech with a carbide blad...

Check earlier in the thread.

Be careful breathing that stuff. Most ceramics aren't too bueno for the lungs. Macor and unfired alumina can be machined fairly well with generic carbide tools. They are too abrasive for HSS in any quantity, but you may not have any issue with as little as you're doing. Just sharpen the tool every s...

When I tried tapping them, they tapped well, but any significant bolt torque split them right in two. The force from the countersunk head may do the same, so that's likely a valid concern. The bending force in the ti plate would be across the strongest section of the cores though, too. I might have ...

What's the title status?

I was thinking about this more, and wouldn't the cores keep the cut end from moving? They are kinda a large pin, then pinching the plate lightly between the cores should keep it constrained. Maybe you don't need the pins at all?

It depends more on the fit you want, I think. If you want them tight, I'd use a drill, then ream to size. That said, with as shallow of a hole as you're boring, I'd think that you can get away with using a decent carbide EM without having significant chatter. You'd need to make sure that you're not ...

Cutting oil should have been fine too, pending what type. I use "Dark Thread Cutting Oil" sometimes, with high sulfur, typically solid in the pipe threading isle at Home Depot. It is super cheap and works well for most things, though it is not ideal for tapping Ti. The Hocut is only sold i...

Man, I'm super excited about this! The key to drilling is to keep a high feed and absolutely don't let it rub. Go lower in sfm and up the feed if you're burning drills vs. mechanical erosion. If you have a decent coolant, it'll help significantly at high concentrations. I thiiink I have some Hocut l...

Beware the inside edges of the slots, as they are not well-deburred. The outside is also only very lightly done. Could be sharpish!

Shipped out today!

Did you just gave up on the previous motor version you just made? I think it was close to running fine, won't you give a try to a metallic stator plate? He's not done with it, just waiting on me to finish the machining on the Ti plate and get it sent out to him. I just finished a job that was in th...

We have a really good, semi-local waterjet vendor, just lemme know what you want to do.

Tolerances on any waterjet work that's not going to cost WAY too much money are, at best, about 0.010". That's fine for most of the project, but maybe not the core slots.

The whole point of the SMC is that the individual particles aren't conductive, right? I wouldn't think it is necessary?

HighHopes wrote: ↑

Sep 17 2020 9:27pm

i am not aware. my mechanical skillz are near 0.. i am making the first draft as best as i can before it goes to our mech expert for cleanup. feel free to give me more advice

Hey, shoot me a PM. I'm happy to help however I can!

designing the enclosure with integrated cooling today. its not ideal because i'm dealing with constraints.. shown below is the bottom where the coolant flows (there will be a waterproof coverplate not shown). the otherside is where the IGBT modules sit, that side will have a flatness spec. this is ...

I like the design, but if you're planning on that being one piece, Ti is probably out. Relatively thin plate is not too bad, but when you start upping the thickness to large diameter rod or billet...wheeeewww. I was thinking of a plate similar to what you have now when talking about my surplus mater...

The best material I can think of would be titanium, but that's probably too expensive. Titanium is a very poor conductor so would minimize losses compared to aluminum. Any kind of metal is going to need a slot to break the loop around the cores. 300 series stainless steel (non-magnetic) would also ...

Fantastic sir!! Looks awesome! Congrats on the first spin!

That last one is a dang good shot! You care if I throw it on my instagram?

Looking great, sir!

I've tried this on a couple of projects before, and it hasn't ever gotten very far (both my fault and others), but I'm interested in helping however I can. I'm useless for the electrical design, but am an ME by degree and own a CNC shop. I've started a team building a land speed record motorcycle fo...

Ya, no tapered roller bearings unless you are seeing much, much higher combined loading. A pair of deep groove ball bearings is ideal for this situation. One thing to be aware of is that you need to preload the set to remove any slop. Did you calculate preload and shim the bearings any? I don't reme...