Endless Sphere

The ratings aren't a direct indicator of how much you will get, as it changes with the discharge rate. What that is saying is it holds roughly 2.2ah, if you take the electricity out at .2 c discharge rate. It doesn't mean it you put 10 together for 22ah that you can pull 22 amps out for an hour. Its...

The heat build up goes with the watts... running higher volts, but lower amps for the same power can reduce overheating.

Exactly... I wouldn't go that low on voltage on a 10s though.

I think you can run it on the charger also and see how much you're putting in...

You can buy RC wattmeters pretty cheap that will log how much actual watthours you're getting out of a pack...

Using 5 amps isn't the same thing as amp hours... .

Re the one picture, I think they're actually uninsulated solid copper wire, not solder. But yes, that's some big blobs all over.

These are plucked from the sphere, so sorry if I don't give proper name credit. The first one shows basically what you're talking about... A single row of cells, paralleled together, then hooked to the next row. 25r_welds.jpg The same kind of thing, but soldered, with the red lines showing where som...

If the battery is actually putting out voltage, you can usually probe the hall wire plug, and the throttle, and see if they're getting voltage to see if the controller is alive. Pictures help... Without seeing the plugs it's harder to tell you what to poke.

Re the motor voltage, most systems are designed to run at a legal speed somewhere, so the 36v is wound to come out at roughly that speed. A 48v is wound for less rpms per volt, so it goes the same roughly legal top speed. It won't damage them changing voltage... It just changes the speed they were d...

Yes, and big company systems like that are just that...a system, and built for manufacturing efficiency, so every wire and every connector is built just as big as it needs to be. If you up the power thru the software, then maybe your main battery connector melts a little. Then you beef that up, and ...

Yes, just bulk charging with them unbalanced is bad. If you're going to go that route, you need to either use small lightbulbs or something to discharge each of the high groups, but you really need to stay near it and not forget you're draining a group and let it go too low. Or charge up each low gr...

Yes, that's the ocean, with some islands in the distance.

Edit.. In commuter mode I just run one battery module which makes it a lot easier to move around when off the bike. But then I don't punch it drag racing cars away from lights to limit the amp draw, which is hard

It's these things... Dendrites. The time scale is 42 hours. They grow. How much they grew inside your battery is a guess.

They're overcharging it to get it to blow up of course, but that's the same kind of currents that will go thru a cell when the dendrites start piercing the separator layers and start shorting out the cell from inside... Again, it's not about charging at low amps or about fuses... It won't be a dange...

https://youtu.be/FQAOSU6-LgY

And that's 90k at this sort of light riding around..

The middle part of the ride is just a lot of hypnotic back and forth with serious speed bursts in the later part... The last 30 sec is a great look of my hometown. Come for a ride sometime!

And if you're building your own chargers, and resoldering shunts, then YOU'RE awesome

That's part of why I run the big pack a lot, as it shares the amp load over a lot of low grade cells. I get about 30k a module, so full pack is 90k-ish

Not trying to be discouraging, but if you think about the layers of safety interfaces between the BMS, the charger, and the battery that are meant to keep you from doing what you're trying to do, maybe give in and recycle that thing?

And if it's working don't bother changing it until next time you take the wheel out.. . But you don't need another nut on the inside. In your last picture, where the two washers are between the frame and the brake cover, that's where the skinny nut you still have on the outside goes.

Glad it's working out. And that's only 2/3 of the full pack! It's 3 modular units so I can run it lighter for short range. And the frame is surprisingly unmodified. It's a first generation Yuba Mundo cargo bike. The rack was bolted on on the early models instead of welded, so when taken off makes it...

Yeah... What he said.☝️ And yes, there is a clutch in there... It lets the wheel coast when the power is off. I don't know the exact bike... If it's front motor with rim brake, you might be able to just turn it around. If it's rear, or disc brake, or both, you have to start swapping the colored moto...

Your motor looks to be about 97% the same as mine... it started out in a scooter too. But yours has the better aluminum stator instead of the stamped steel one on mine.

If it was sold for 72v, the motor will handle much more than that, in bursts anyway. It might melt, but it's not going to fly apart from the rpms, or burn thru the insulation. The whole rest of the system starts getting really sparky as you go up... You'll be surprised how much connectors start jump...

The skinny nut is meant to hold the assembly in place when the wheel is off the frame. currie-12-1-2-x-3-0-complete-rear-wheel-assembly-with-drum-brake-for-schwinn-ezip-scooters-1.jpeg When it's tight enough, it should be pressing the brake cover against the inside spacer, which then rides on the in...

You're right...I thought from the outside cover it was the band type. But I do think your washers and nuts got moved around before. Usually the skinny nut that is on the outside is the one thats supposed to be against the brake plate, and the flared nut with the knurling is the axle nut. Maybe one o...

Fyi, that's actually a band brake, not a drum brake. You can also have the brake, and still have regen. The motor will be ok, esp since you have a spare. Just figure out the missing spacer... It will be fine.