Endless Sphere

It might be fine... Still worth seeing how hard it is to get an actual look inside the controller to see...

When you ask about 56v, is that nominal or actual voltage? I don't know about the Ezee controller specifically, but you're probably going to be close to the voltage rating of the capacitors (they're usually 60ish v in a 48v controller). That will be a problem no matter how gently you apply the throt...

Use the rings if you're a home builder. Maybe they're overkill if you have an integrated system where the controller can't be hot rodded, and the pack has built in temperature sensors, and the welds are robotically done for uniformity, and the cells are highly quality controlled, and the connecting ...

They just need to add a flux capacitor and they'll be ready to go!

Maybe explain what you mean by self looping then... Because it sounds a lot like perpetual motion.

The frames of an EVG make a great platform for upgrading. With modern battery, motor, controller, bigger crank, and upgraded brakes (I added a disc brake mount to the rear) they're fun to race around, esp in pairs. The frames are incredibly stiff... Never a hint of wiggles no matter how hard they're...

You know there no way to run a generator from an electric motor, and run that motor off the generator, right? That it would violate the basic laws of energy conservation, and that perpetual motion doesn't exist, right? Because as soon as you mention something like that it makes people ignore what ot...

Just be ready for the effect the extra wheel weight will have on the handling.... Those steel rims are heavy, and wheels are just about the worst place to add unnecessary weight with the way the spinning magnifies the weight difference.

Too small off road definitely isn't great.

As soon as you go internally geared motor with clutch, you introduce a lot more failure points off-road, esp on landings if the throttle is still on. Stripped gears, sheared keystock, broken clutch plate, etc. I've failed a couple just riding power wheelies off curbs for example... Plus harder to co...

I don't know what 1 means on your meter.. Is that perfect continuity or perfect resistance? If it's the same thing as touching the meter probes together gets you, and the brake light is on without the lever being pulled, then the wires are probably pinched and shorting the 2 wires together somewhere...

It's a generalized thing that direct drive hub motors tend to running too low an rpm, especially when starting to bog down on hills. One quick way to change that is to run a smaller diameter wheel, which now has to run a higher rpm for the same mph or kph. But it only really helps if you also up the...

What I meant was some brake switches have 3 wires going to them (Hall sensor type... Harder to test).

Even though it's only one lever, yours is two wire type.

You could either set it for volts (usually should be about 5 volts) or continuity (open circuit with the lever not pulled)
If you have 2 wire type brake switches, and if they plug in at the other end you can unplug them to test too

Off road the primary need is getting the front wheel over things and thru holes, so being able to wheelie over things is beneficial... That leans things towards bigger front wheel and smaller back. On pavement, it's the reverse.. no giant obstacles to get the front wheel thru, and tons of traction a...

There should be no current with the brake released.

You should be able to test it right there, by poking the metal tabs with your meter... Just don't slip and bridge them together.

Yup... And your logo picture is upside down...

If the labels are right, then yes it should make more power, and you should feel it unless the old controller was already driving the motor at saturation.... Is there a three speed plug coming out of the controller? If there is and it's not hooked up it defaults to medium power.

Was it actually installed like the picture implies, with the tabbed washer on the inside of the frame, with the tab not catching anything?

If the scooter comes on when the charger gets plugged in, then something is wrong with how the batteries are hooked up. Did you get the series connections right to where it's putting out the right pack voltage before it's connected to the controller? And it's not anything special having the charger ...

The little slits make the electric current go thru the surface of the can more during spot welding, compared to no slit, for better penetration with less heating during assembly.

It does affect it. But they can't know what voltage you're going to run at. The point of using the chart is you need to know your system wattage. When you know that, you divide out your personal system voltage you'll be using to get the amps that will be flowing. Then you get the wire size you need ...

So much lead acid misinformation in one place! Some lead acid updates from the last decade.... While never matching lithiums power to weight, AGM (absorbed glass mat) lead acids have solved all the other complaints about lead. They can sit on a shelf for a year without self discharging or sulphating...

Yep, when you need a reliable 2400 cranking amps lead still has a place, and also as a large cruising sailboat pack where fire safety is critical and you need some ballast anyway. That a Northstar AGM... super pure lead, virtually zero self discharge, and sent in matching serial number lots for clos...