Endless Sphere

It will be fine, as long as you really water seal it, with drip loops in the wires and whatnot. Its harder that it would seem to seal up the wire exits. I have several that were the wrong shape, that I took out of the cases, split in two, reconfigured and wired them back together. Starting with a pa...

It's harder on the cells mounting them vertically... It makes the central mandrel inside the can bounce up and down, compared to having them mounted on their sides. Not sure how much real world difference it makes depending on how fast you cycle thru a pack...

Not mine, but a recent thread on a build that used them..


viewtopic.php?f=6&t=93510&hilit=Boston

Functionality has an aesthetic all it's own... But there's many traditionally beautiful gems lurking in there too.

If you haven't bought anything yet, maybe consider some kind of prismatic cells. There's a lot of easy ways to do the interconnects, including bolt together type so you can replace a cell, and the reduction in balance wires, and the reduced need for cell level fusing (you're taking a pretty deeply p...

Just from memory they use an RCA type plug, and come in both 36v and 48v which it should say on the battery, and pretty much any generic charger should work in those voltages will work.

The motor is the same, as long as it's direct drive... It's the controller that makes the regen happen. But realise youre then getting into really really needing torque arms and non slipping axles once the alternating drive and regen starts making the axle rock back and forth.

I find that to be really satisfying riding... I used to be more out in the country, but now that's is lots of heavy city stop and go, that happens a lot! I loan my bike to many moto riders, and they're always blown away by the power delivery, light weight, the effectiveness in traffic, and the just ...

And just an FYI, depending on how much you value your time, if you have a whole working system you got cheap, a new rear motor is pretty cheap and easily gotten these days, by the time you grind lawyer lips, or more torque arms or switch forks etc, you could just go rear...

I don't do fronts much, anybody have any input on whether or not that's the direction of torque arm mounting that promotes it rotating the axle down out of the dropout?

Holding the motor washers in vice grips and taking them to the bench grinder until they fit in the recess worked for me. A cup of water for cooling them off for test fits is pretty handy.

Just a guess, but usually the washers that come with the motor are too big to fit in the circular recess around the dropout in a fork like normal bike axle washers do, and no matter how tight the nuts are it slips around a bit.

The one on the right should be able to flow more amps with copper soldered along the final strip, as there's lower series resistance than the left, and both leads come out the same side which is sometimes a plus.

Agree with the above, less strands=earlier fatigue failure.

Sorry... just watched the vid. Looks like the magnet ring is running pretty true, and the wobble isn't much worse than lots of cheap regular back wheels. The freewheel itself is prob fine which is part of the problem, where putting a new one on won't change things much. Its because the little stub s...

Are you spinning it with the tire mounted? Thats usually where the wobble is.. but if no tire.. maybe it is a weird sideplate...

Thats usually more due to out of balance rear wheels.... the slight wobble of the freewheel shouldn't be throwing the bike around.

Just an fyi since it got brought up... theres a big difference in behavior depending on if the freewheel is rubbing the frame, and whether its internally seized up. The second one is the dangerous one, as when the freewheel is rubbing the frame, it still stops when coasting, even though you cant bac...

Yeah.. By the time I built the custom harness with all the paralleled etc etc and then learned you had to go into the board and then opened up the controllers and realized they were fully potted on those particular ones... well... I realized everybody that it hadn't worked for in all the threads I s...

No is the simple answer.

Maybe if you do a bunch of special wiring that would take longer and be worse and cost more in time than just buying one bigger better controller is the less simple answer.

If its the basic 3 socket female plug on the controller end, you can use a piece of wire or a bent paperclip jammed into the plug for testing. its usually the center and one of the two outside sockets... I've had mine paperclipped on high for years now. I don't think it will change the feel much tho...

Something in the Regen settings maybe? It's sometimes set to Regen automatically after the throttle is released for scooters, and maybe it doesn't know what to do after that?

It more depends on what your target top speed is.... Upping the voltage is great for getting a slow motor spinning up faster, but if you're already ok with the top speed, then focus on upping the amps for hill climb.

But of course once you start hacking connectors and adding throttles you never know where it will lead...

I'll mention again it's sometimes worth just getting a new controller, even if it means ditching the display, PAS sensor, and everything except the motor and battery. Even it's it's hanging outside on zipties, and hacked together with redone plugs... The time sink and mental energy of figuring it ou...