Endless Sphere

Chalo, thanks; got the wrong "Sheldon". He was a great guy and extremely knowledgeable. We had identical 1986 (AIR) Fat Chance Kickers the last time I "talked" to him.

The blue ring slides along the stantion and is used for setting "sag" and seeing how much of the travel you use on any ride. Many systems specify that you tune the fork by using 20-25% of the total travel ("sag") when the bike is stationary and you're sitting on it. Of course, individual preference ...

You need to both tighten the spokes and true the wheel. Either have a bike shop do it or go to sheldon smith or many other places for a tutorial.

Why not try a front rack where the weight is even lower? My 1000w DD is configured with the battery on a front rack and handles well.

Looks like a "tail wagging the dog" problem. I think your situation would be resolved by transferring the battery/rack from the rear to the front of the bike.

I was under the impression they recalled all previous batteries, but maybe it was only certain years.

Obviously not for the ES crowd, but I've heard many stories about Pedego CS, all good. Did you replace your battery several years ago when they recalled them?

I'd like to know what that picture has to do with Stealth BMS's, but could you please post about 10 more pictures like it so I can ascertain the connection?

I'm pretty sure that Luna will adjust the system to your specifications, but you could consider a 36V BBS01. Luna might be able to provide that, but if not there are suppliers. My wife and I just use "0" level (of 5, like yours) on flat ground. Also, you should be able to "feather" the throttle if y...

IMO< as a non-expert, (as stated above) if your motor isn't getting hot you'll garner very little benefit from the 1500w one. If it's a little hotter than "acceptable', consider Hubsinks or Statorade.

I rode Polaris bike(s) at the Electric Bike Expo in San Diego in early 2016, then wasn't surprised to learn they were going out of business since their bikes were the least fun to ride of the many that I tried. I would be concerned that the batteries are pretty old by now. If you like the way the bi...

Can you install a rack; there are myriad front and rear ones. Also, if your battery is small enough, a seat pack might encase it. I have a BBS02 that is powered by a 3" X 3" (or so) 52V, 6 ah battery in a seat bag.

Some freewheel clusters can be taken apart and "re-manufactured" with gears removed and replaced by spacers. I did it with a Shimano or DNM several years ago, but don't remember the exact one which I ended up using. Maybe Sheldon Smith has something.

There are front hub systems with PAS, but the ones I know of are RPM-sensor, which IMO isn't bad since I have one that operates that way. FME it's possible to find a level of assist that makes you pedal with some force. There are much more knowledgeable individuals here; hope they chime in. Also, ma...

Probably I don't understand the problem, but if your pants are caught between the top tube and the seat can't you just put a barrier there? Maybe a chunk of foam or ??? will prevent the problem.

The DC area should have plenty of used FS bikes on Craigslist, but all the good ones will have aluminum (or carbon) frames. Find a good bike for probably $400 - $700 and just make sure you have two good torque arms if using regen.

Goat head thorns are the primary problem where I ride, and on several instances I've seen Slime seep through a very small hole without exhibiting the ability to clog it even if I rotated the tire. Acquaintances that ride in some cactus-filled desert areas in socal won't allow anyone to join the grou...

I use/have the Park model, but only paid about $60 for it (but that was at least five years ago). Built a few wheels, but have been using my LBS lately.

Looks like Ohm and ELBY are collateral damage since both use BionX in all their models AFAICT. Both companies have reduced their prices, but not enough considering the potential warranty problems IMO.

As long as you're not dealing with steep hills or slippery terrain, your situation may be tailor-made for a front hub installation. The only drawback that I can perceive is you would need to design a different front brake system.

I'm in Orange County, CA riding on terrain that either specifically permits e-bikes or doesn't prohibit them. Individuals on the local forum have excoriated e-MTB from the beginning, but in three years of riding and meeting many MTB riders I haven't had a negative experience. Don't let the couch pot...

Had a friend do it since he had the equipment and some dropouts that he had hacked off a "donor" frame. Dropouts are sold by Paragon Machine Works, among other frame building suppliers.

It's a steel frame therefore it's possible to cut the old dropout off and weld on a replacement. I did that with an MTB where the dropout had cracked after about 20 years of use. Big plus (for me) was the new dropouts were sliding and the bike was used as a single speed.

Check the threads; these direct drive motors are fairly powerful and bulletproof. Powered with 48V or 52V it should suffice for all but very steep hills. The rule of thumb bandied about here is don't let the bike speed get below half of top speed or too much battery power is being transferred to heat.

Just for information, the 12 ga spokes on my YESCOM inexpensive rear hub have only needed to be tweaked twice in three years and the wheel seems fine. Apparently they were compatible with the cheap rim.