Endless Sphere

Thanks for alot for the info & Thread tip.Really appreciated. If you haven't found it yet, this sub section of the forum has many threads with scooter and motorcycle builds with lots of valuable info: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=12 Especially this thread: https://endless-s...

I'm building a EV scoot from scratch and looking for the optimum battery set up, I have plenty of package space for the batteries but a bit stuck on what set up to go for to get the best out of hub motor and controller. Look in Ripperton's scooter thread as he is building a serious battery pack: ht...

Here's an electric scooter for you: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Razor-Black-Label-E90-Electric-Scooter-Kids-Ages-8-120-lbs-Up-10-mph-40-mins-Ride-Time-90W-Power-Core-High-Torque-Hub-Motor/590441042 In Europe this is a scooter: Electric scooter.jpg https://www.motorcyclenews.com/bike-reviews/niu/nqi-...

There must be higher pitch/faster (aftermarket) props from different manufacturers that can be made to fit? In the trolling motor world there are guys making their own props or using model aircraft props with surprising results (higher speeds @ less amps so longer trips): QfNWmJ2DbgM hIXckCOSuWg

Very nice development
Thanks for all your open source design work.

FS DH bike with BBSHD

I will follow your thread. Hope it turns out as good or better than your previous builds

Are those bikes for people with disability (very short legs and very long arms...)?
The ergonomics look awful to actually pedal them.

Your very labor intensive way of building a battery pack is a good reminder that spot welding is the best DIY way to go...

Would DIY nickel plating be doable? First flatten the dimples on flat surface with sandpaper and then nickel plate them.

The placement of the motor sprocket seems to be much higher than on ICE engined bikes. I think it should be lowered 5cm (or more) and checked with compressed suspension when on the ground with all the weight including rider on it.

That is some serious mud riding
Great photo's again

After the layer of solder you could flatten the dimpled strips on a flat surface with sandpaper on it.

Indeed a very nice build.
But I would suggest placing the battery pack in the triangle for much better weight distribution.

The cavitation would indicate that a different prop could bring even higher top speed without the ventilation and be more efficient. I would hook up a watt meter to see how much amp draw there is at different intervals/speeds. And try an even larger/higher pitch prop to see the difference.

i already saw these KTs, i was about to buying them before having bought my current shitty chinese controller, but then looking at the price, being china staff shipped from china, i tought it was way overpriced. those who tried this "brand" can confirm instead a good quality? i wonder why...

Then look in the KT controller thread:
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=87870

If 100A continuous is enough:
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=113445

That is a very decent speed
Maybe also try different props to get better efficiency?

Then do what 99t4 suggested and flip the wheel around to see if it is dished to one side.

This I will follow. Love to see conversions like this. Good luck and enjoy building

Look in the KT controller thread:
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=87870

Best thread to ask anything about the TSDZ2: viewtopic.php?f=28&t=79788&start=9100

More info:
https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/FAQ

https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki

Best thread to ask anything about the TSDZ2: viewtopic.php?f=28&t=79788&start=9100

More info:
https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/FAQ

https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki

Is the axle seated in the top of the drop out on both sides? Is the wheel angled in the fork or straight and shifted to one side?