Endless Sphere

Everybody have suggested that I should use lipo-s in my kart. So now I have made a plan to build this battery. And actually there is multiple goals to achieve when building this. 1. It should be lighter than my current ones. 2. I want to use this for my two controller+motor 1/4 mile test insted of t...

Just for curiosity What is your sprockets sizes for 120km/h.

Forget to asked, partnumber/type of your diode? Was searching the net today and stumbled accross this youtube video comments: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YT_eKgLiIgo "Junsi Electronic Co.,Ltd just got back to me. It is a not a Schottky-Diode (to honor the guy, please spell it right) but a TVS -...

Replaced this Voltage regulator and charger started to work with 12V laboratory power supply output. IMG_4880.jpg Had to replace that 6,3V CAP also because it was a little puff to the eye. And it was only after I tried with 15V meanwhile. Then I turned charger off and upped voltage to 35V and when t...

Can you weight one pair with plastics?
Want to know how heavy it will be if I will use 3 pairs.

do you have link for these "Using 300amp 1/0GA welding connectors"
I will build 6p usin 8awg wires, so was thinking of crimping one pack positive and another negative together.
because anderson 350 is too bulky, but this looks promising and can keep up my average 200A and peak 650A

Forget to asked, partnumber/type of your diode? You mean the diod I replaced. I can't remember and right now it's behind heatsink I do not need to remove this time. I desoldered that diod from scrap electronics but it's parameters were similar to the working one, that was intact from my last bang :...

I measured the diod and installed similar one and it worked. I even installed not SMD diod using wires. After have fully charged my 7s lipo using 48V power supply I connected 50,7V (4x12V pb in serial) to input and something blow inside. I think I had my lipo also connected to balance port just forg...

Just a a fet or more components were blown out? fuses and one diod :) I was lucky i think considering what I was doing with it :shock: In that post i have pictures also about blown components. But this charger has two identical sets, so if you blow one side you can get blown parts numbers from anot...

I alao blowed one channel but repaired it and still working great.
I think i made a thread in this forum also for my problem i guess.

Green is amps, you can see green y axis in left.
Yellow is discharged mAh
Blue is temp
Red is pack voltage
Others are cell voltages.

Each has its own y axis in left or right
And x axis is elapsed time

Did the test with Zippy but first impression is that I need "Turnigy Heavy Duty" instead.
Will try to do more Amp test if I can get my iCharger DUO to get it to draw more amps.

Considering same thing. I bought one zippy compact 5Ah and 7s with 25c/35c raiting. Will test it with my icharger duo in sync mode with 70A and see how it handles. second choice was Turnigy Heavy Duty 5000mAh 7S 60C Lipo Pack w/XT90 but with these my pack would be 5kg heavier and also 12055cm3 rathe...

Took some time and parcipated an amateur karting event. They let me race with soviet era karts. There were two classes "Retro N" that is all soviet (frame, motor even the tires are old, made last century). And ´"Retro A" where you could use new frame and tires and even modifye motor a little bit, bu...

Do you have more information on the telemetry you've designed? This is super interesting. I'm using Sevcon and considering the same BMS. Is there a project for it somewhere? For olimex there is project in https://bitbucket.org/elektrikardid/ but it is not public. But you can't use that for telemetr...

Hey

Tested VBOX sport in weekend, better than my cycle data logger gps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZ65BTSk4lI

Yes, one layer of copper.

Tested how limiting power is affecting motor temp and used energy. And as Latvia has now official electric kart class (two of them, one 15kw and another open up to 25kw) then it was time to test it. Motor temp were under control with 250A battery limit but lap times were 3sec slower. Also about 1,6A...

Pota wrote: ↑

Apr 30 2018 6:34pm

What did you use to press the copper to the battery? plastic O-Ring and paste?

Actually ended up not using any paste.
I used 8mm thick foam (you can see that in some of the pictures) that I punched out of bigger piece. I pressed it down to 2mm.

So what is the correct length, width and thickness of each module? Wasent it 0.5mm thick? Im building the same pack. Just as 6x 6s10 packs :) yes it was 0,5mm thick. I calculated that it will shrink 3mm but in reality it shrank 4mm. So my drawings are 1mm off in length I think. We never bothered to...

Hey

Only dwg is and pdf.
But in this dwg lenght is 1mm short. I had to file bigger both side two holes so that copper will fit to holders.
Reason is that when I stamped copper it shrinked and I calculated it 1mm wrong for the whole lenght

Got myself a iCharger 4010Duo to balance my repaired pack (even made two sets of charge and balance wires with crocodile endings). wires.jpg And as always did not read the manual at first :( (RTFM is a must next time) So connected both sideof the charger to same pack and caboom one side (right one) ...

Hey

I analyzed my 8 lap race and average battery current was 125A, event max was over 600A.
I'm using anderson 350 connector and 35mm2 cables and both are just fine with that. Anderson is 350A continious.
Here is graph also.

Have you finished this upgrade and how is the feel between 775A phase and 660A phase current?

It's all in the my build thread ...
Picture is more than 1000 words