Endless Sphere

no, you dont need to separate them. as long as you have the same number of cells in series the packs will balance out naturally. its also a LOT better for the cells as you spread the load. just make sure they have a EXACTLY the same voltage when connecting them together. with a pack like that you wi...

That depends on what they mean with 48v on the charger.

I think Flippy might have done some dodgy maths if he thinks it needs a big resistor with a fan though. Remember a resistor in series with a battery only sees the voltage difference, not the whole voltage. So a resistor in series with a 14S pack at dead flat, (3.0v per cell) is only seeing 16.8v, n...

using mean well chargers/led drivers is a well used solution and is the default solution for my conversion builds (as a company). i have built in litteraly dozens in the past years in various configurations. they work on exactly the same principle as a regular lipo charger and are basically the high...

LockH wrote: ↑

May 07, 2018 10:54 pm

Curious... how much ebikers spend at the car wash?

there has to be at least one dipshit that takes a pressure washer to his battery and motor.

I use this type, direct to the battery up to 80v, 20w is very bright but 8w should do or have a couple with switching between. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-80V-20W-LED-Headlight-Handlebar-Universal-Lamp-for-E-bike-Motorcycle-/152471519092?hash=item238002bf74 s-l500.jpg oncoming traffic must love...

why woudl you ever do this? you would need a massive resistor and a fan cooling the thing. it makes no sense and doesnt do what you want it do do as it also tanks your charging voltage and it will take forever to reach float voltage if the charger does not cut out before that.

ELG-150-54A

that is is charger you should buy. manually set it to 56.7V, set the current to a reasonable level and be done with it.

the BMS is a PROTECTION, not a regulator. you need a power supply (aka: charger) that has the proper voltage ceiling, that's it.

In this case a 15S would store more power.

Are you keeping the cell count the same?

charging to 4.05V is enough. that will considerably exend the lifespan.

so float voltage is 56.7V.

the controllers i usually work with have a 90V limit. speed wise a 16S would barely suffice but does lose speed when the battery drains. for the BMS it does not matter if i use 16 or 21S even, i buy programmable 24S versions anyway. i am more interested in what the real world (dis)advantages are to ...

Just wondering what the general consensus is. If you can build a 16S25P battery or a 20S20P battery what would be better? My view is that you can get the the same power draw with less amps on the 20S pack. And have to limit top speed so it can drive at the same full (limited) speed the whole voltage...

You should never use high power chargers anyway. 8h charging time should be a target, not a complaint. I utterly trash my 16S25P, 72Ah, 60V 4.2kWh battery on the discharge. 200A peaks into a 1.5kW motor aint kidding around. But dispite my desire to see the hub motor go up the majestic flames and pla...

A decent smart bms is about 100 bucks and a high end charger from mean well is less then 200 depending on the power you want so i dont see where you get 400 bucks for just the charger....

i think a overvoltage occured and blew the arse out of a ADC. that usually results in weird voltages being recorded and triggering the bms into a fail mode.

looks like it lost the ADC at a channel after a short or somthing.

does it still display the voltages correctly?

90% of AC stuff with rectification works with DC. but 220V AC becomes over 300V DC so the device needs a high DC voltage in order to trigger the conversion IC to work. most regular AC stuff works fine from 80~90VDC. i use a 90V DC battery made from AA cells to power my scope when i am mobile. :mrgre...

10 seconds of flight time seems a bit "short". and it does not solve the current issue with those low voltages.

The gravimetric energy density is actually slightly worse then the NCR18650GA that does not have to be a problem. dont forget the cells need to be attached to something. the old style (model S) packs have steel plates on both sides of the cells. the new model only has it on the top. dont focus so h...

the type of drivetrain does not dictate how people use it in stupid ways. there have been probably millions of dumb shits that went with their bikes or gas mopeds onto highways or other places they dont belong. you dont see those on the news. its just that people try and blame the technology for doi...

-CrazyBiker- wrote: ↑

May 15, 2018 8:46 pm

I'm asking for pics to see how it works out

try it and tell us.


you mighty want to take the fan apart and cover the insides with hot glue to make it waterproof.

Great stuff mate, 300 would be about the range of most gas bikes so that should be the goal, I would like to do a touring conversion myself but maybe on a tired japanese bike, will there be a build thread? funny that over here we nicknamed them as the "Leadwing" but now it could be a lithium wing. ...

Dont make multiple topics with the same questions please.