Endless Sphere

What sort of "big amps" are we talking here? Well, if we take your current setup of 60V, 45 amps continuous, you are looking at 2700 watts. For the Astro motors, most people are running the Castle Creations HV controllers like the Talon, which only go up to 50.4 volts. So to get your equivalent 270...

I would love to see someone successfully do some type of noise reduction enclosure on an Astro build. Then I could copy their design. My Astro build has been sitting, collecting dust since I have been playing with my BBSHD. I want go back to it and do a noise enclosure as well, but just no time. The...

First, I can't run full throttle as long as I'd like without generating an alarming amount of engine heat. Second, I'd like the engine to fit into the triangle rather than hang below the bike, for obvious reasons. Third, the BBSHD is needlessly heavy. Like, it's just bizarre to me that Bafang didn'...

This is a good thread for reference: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=91775

Thinking about just turning the existing hub into a fixed since it's basically what it is right now. I'll open it up and take a look. Maybe I'll throw some JB Weld in there or a bent nail to make sure it's permanently locked up.

Can you point me to an example of a fixed hub?

My current set-up is a BBSHD with a PhaseRunner on 75 Volts nominal, around 36 amps. The volts drop a little under load, so I'm seeing about 2500 watts peak. My regular commute involves climbing a 32 degree dirt trail. So the bike is geared very low for climbing. It is single speed with a 30T at the...

Thanks, Avner. That's perfect since I'm already running a Phaserunner! I'm going to give that a try. The issue came up because the freehub on my rear wheel has locked up, so now the chain is getting spun by the rear-wheel instead of freewheeling. I figured the left side drive folks have already figu...

For those of you running a left side drive, given that there is no free-wheel on that side, how do you prevent the chain from derailing given that when you are not applying throttle, the spinning of the rear wheel is actually driving the chain forward on the front motor sprocket. Typically, all the ...

Very nice. So do you run the two packs in series? Do you use any kind of diode to isolate them in case the BMS trips on one of the batteries?

devo1223 wrote: ↑

Apr 09 2019 8:25pm

Stinky, wouldn't it just be easier to get a TSDZ2?

That's a fair point. I guess I should read through that thread. Don't know much about that kit.

I probably should test ride some newer consumer E-Bikes just to see how good a modern PAS implementation is. Maybe my opinion would change. If anyone in the South Bay area is interested in trading some riding time... :) The newer torque sensing PAS systems are very smooth. The harder you work, the ...

Nice work, Bob. This would be the ultimate pedal assist if we could figure how to integrate a torque sensor.

Nice find! What's that black section between the core and the output shaft? Planetary gearbox? Answering my own question. If I expand out the listing, it mentions "Gear ratio: 6:1", so that must be a gearbox. I wonder if it would be easy to remove the gear reduction and that blue cover on the back ...

Nice find! What's that black section between the core and the output shaft? Planetary gearbox?

Is the 90V max of the Phaserunner a hard cutoff? If I use LiFe cells with 27 in series, once they settle to their nominal voltage of 3.3v each, that would be 89.1v. But hot off the charger, that would be 3.6v per cell giving 97.2v. My cells seem to settle down to 3.3v after about 20 minutes. Can the...

But then you do need to fabricate custom reverse-engineered holders to both securely clamp the packs in place, and maintaining a reliable electrical connection. I see that as being **at least** as challenging as using a much more compact enclosure for the bare cells, either bought or DIY. Thingiver...

So far when everyone here's talking "BMS", only talking about whatever protection circuitry Ryobi built internally to these 18V/9Ah packs right? I would think it better to strip the cells out. Building a custom enclosure to mount them securely, and the matching "jacks" for the pack's proprietary "p...

But I'M not following. Why would the individual BMS see 72 volts? I'm planning to keep the whole pack intact and wire them in series. Each BMS should only see 18v, right? But if one of the three decides to trip, the load (controller) drops to zero and puts the full 72v across the tripped one, which...

Thanks, Fecter. So I need a diode that can handle at least 72volts, 45amps, assuming my max current draw will only be 45amps?

SM, always appreciate your insight.

But I'M not following. Why would the individual BMS see 72 volts? I'm planning to keep the whole pack intact and wire them in series. Each BMS should only see 18v, right?

Somebody please help punch some holes in my idea here. Home depot has the these 18Volt 9aH batteries for $140 for a 2 pack: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-18-Volt-ONE-Lithium-Ion-LITHIUM-HP-9-0-Ah-High-Capacity-Battery-2-Pack-P168/304740785 According to the safety data sheet, it uses Sony US18650...

Hey, this looks awesome! Thanks so much for you contribution to the DIY battery community!

Payload wrote: ↑

Nov 09 2018 12:06pm

Best Offer for local pick up .

You might want to add your location.

For 74V, just set the Kp and Ki values to 1 and 10 (see image). You can use larger values for lower voltages. If by "judder" you mean where hitting throttle causes the motor to spin an full throttle and take up the slack in the drive train too fast, then user endrew's settings work great. You have ...