Search found 3556 matches: mxus 3000

Searched query: +mxus +3000

by Linukas
Feb 11, 2018 10:32 am
Forum: Motor Technology
Topic: Redesigned hubmotor for mid drive
Replies: 4
Views: 148

Re: Redesigned hubmotor for mid drive

Buk___ wrote:
Feb 11, 2018 9:12 am
Linukas wrote:
Feb 11, 2018 6:48 am
at first need to rewind it for 1T to get more rpm, expecting for 36kv:
Slightly off-topic for your thread, but I hope you'll indulge me.

From what I can see, your motor appears to be 56 pole-48 slot (I may have miscounted), could you explain how you arrived at your expectation of 36kv from that and 1T?

Thanks. Buk.
it is 51 slot, 46 pole motor, similar to mxus 3000.
by rg12
Feb 10, 2018 4:33 am
Forum: Motor Technology
Topic: Which Hubsink V2 for this hub?
Replies: 6
Views: 110

Which Hubsink V2 for this hub?

Hey Guys,

I have this unbranded 3kw hub which is super common in my country but I have no idea what to choose from the list as a type of motor when purchasing the Hubsink V2?
Aren't most of the MXUS/Cromotor and such the same diameter? what about width? and if not, how do I choose?

This is the photo of the actual motor:
Image
by burner77
Jan 23, 2018 4:07 am
Forum: Items for Sale - New
Topic: EU Group Buy for MXUS 3000W Hub Motor 177€ + Shipping
Replies: 337
Views: 27307

Re: EU Group Buy for MXUS 3000W Hub Motor 177€ + Shipping

njm wrote:
Jan 22, 2018 4:18 am
Hi, just to know if anyone interestd to form a group to buy a mxus 3000. Thank you to all njm
if you need a motor, you can let me know. I have plenty of them
by njm
Jan 22, 2018 4:18 am
Forum: Items for Sale - New
Topic: EU Group Buy for MXUS 3000W Hub Motor 177€ + Shipping
Replies: 337
Views: 27307

Re: EU Group Buy for MXUS 3000W Hub Motor 177€ + Shipping

Hi, just to know if anyone interestd to form a group to buy a mxus 3000. Thank you to all njm
by amberwolf
Jan 04, 2018 1:47 pm
Forum: Items Wanted
Topic: Mxus Spareparts? does they exist?
Replies: 8
Views: 433

Re: Mxus Spareparts? does they exist?

litespeed wrote:
Jan 04, 2018 10:54 am
Because I bought a cover from him for a MXUS 3000 a little over a year ago.....
Ah. I guess the original post would've made more sense with that info in it. ;)

With out going way outside the lines I'd say 90% of the ebike suppliers out there don't list everything they sell. Must be difficult to set up all available stuff on the websites?
For most of these people, time is money, so I understand when they only put the really profitable stuff up on their sites, and then leave it to people to ask about other stuff.

But most people won't ask if you have something, they just walk away and go somewhere else if it's not listed clearly in an obvious place and way. (I work in retail; I see this every day because there are never enough of us to help everyone and *us* ask *them* what they're looking for, and often we don't even have enough people to have the time to stock the shelves, like right now).

So lots of sales are lost from that kind of thing.
by litespeed
Jan 04, 2018 10:54 am
Forum: Items Wanted
Topic: Mxus Spareparts? does they exist?
Replies: 8
Views: 433

Re: Mxus Spareparts? does they exist?

amberwolf wrote:
Jan 04, 2018 2:25 am
Just for curiosity, I looked in all the various subsections of that site, and there are no covers separately available on that site, so why recommend it?

The only thing that comes up at all for a search (using that site's built-in search) for the word
cover
is this https://westcoastelectrics.com/product/ ... 3-display/
which doesn't even have the word "cover" anywhere on it, except as part of the word "discover".
Because I bought a cover from him for a MXUS 3000 a little over a year ago.....Rob, just send him a message and ask! With out going way outside the lines I'd say 90% of the ebike suppliers out there don't list everything they sell. Must be difficult to set up all available stuff on the websites?

Tom

P.s. Auto correct sux!
by wesnewell
Jan 02, 2018 4:19 pm
Forum: E-Bike General Discussion
Topic: Thoughts on this controller for this motor?
Replies: 7
Views: 385

Re: Thoughts on this controller for this motor?

ebike11 wrote:
Jan 02, 2018 2:48 am
notice you also have a 3000 mxus. Regarding the wire coloring..did your controller phase and hall wires match up exactly with the motors phase and halls?
Running sensorless, so not using the halls. With learning feature of controller, you can hook the phase wires any way you want. On my other bike I had to wire them correctly, and they aren't a straight match. If your controller doesn't have a learning feature then it's possible you don't have it wired correctly. And a motor can run, sometimes fairly decently, with the wrong wiring combo. A 3t motor should get you close to 50 mph with a 72v battery and everything wired right.
by ebike11
Jan 02, 2018 2:48 am
Forum: E-Bike General Discussion
Topic: Thoughts on this controller for this motor?
Replies: 7
Views: 385

Re: Thoughts on this controller for this motor?

wesnewell wrote:
Jan 02, 2018 1:52 am
ebike11 wrote:
Jan 01, 2018 9:18 pm
I double checked the connections. They all seem fine. Nothing loose or disconnected.

Do you think that since the controller wattage is rated lower than the motor wattage that it might cause sputtering?
Nope, the rating has nothing to do with it. I have a 1000W rated controller on my mxus 3000 and I push 6000W though it (100Vx60A), but so long that I blow the controller. I could be a bad connection inside the controller, or just a flaky controller though. Could also be bad halls, or bad connection in the motor. But for on again off again problems like you describe, it's usually a bad connection somewhere. If you are using the ring terminals on the phase wires that cam with the controller, I'd replace them with some good connectors, like gold plated bullets. Those ring terminals are crap.
Ok thx
Actually i soldered xt60s for the phase connectors.
I notice you also have a 3000 mxus. Regarding the wire coloring..did your controller phase and hall wires match up exactly with the motors phase and halls?
Also the controller is a sinuwave type. I love how quiet it is...but not sure if that type of controller has anything to do with my problem
by wesnewell
Jan 02, 2018 1:52 am
Forum: E-Bike General Discussion
Topic: Thoughts on this controller for this motor?
Replies: 7
Views: 385

Re: Thoughts on this controller for this motor?

ebike11 wrote:
Jan 01, 2018 9:18 pm
I double checked the connections. They all seem fine. Nothing loose or disconnected.

Do you think that since the controller wattage is rated lower than the motor wattage that it might cause sputtering?
Nope, the rating has nothing to do with it. I have a 1000W rated controller on my mxus 3000 and I push 6000W though it (100Vx60A), but so long that I blow the controller. I could be a bad connection inside the controller, or just a flaky controller though. Could also be bad halls, or bad connection in the motor. But for on again off again problems like you describe, it's usually a bad connection somewhere. If you are using the ring terminals on the phase wires that cam with the controller, I'd replace them with some good connectors, like gold plated bullets. Those ring terminals are crap.
by mark5
Dec 27, 2017 9:55 pm
Forum: Items for Sale - New
Topic: MXUS 3K Turbo (V3) 45mm Direct Drive Hub Motor
Replies: 170
Views: 24604

Re: MXUS 3K Turbo (V3) 45mm Direct Drive Hub Motor

amberwolf wrote:
Nov 27, 2017 11:49 pm
markz wrote:
Nov 23, 2017 10:14 pm
This thread is buddy selling his, what I am saying is there is a 100+ page thread on the MXUS 3kw, https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... w#p1159655
Unfortunately only the first 8 posts of that thread, of the first page, is actually visible, because something is broken in the database pointer for it (guessing). The other posts are still there, because you can see them when searching on the title of the thread, but you can't see or read them any other place than in the search page. They won't display in the actual thread.
Should be fixed now. Replacement thread here: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3
by macribs
Dec 22, 2017 7:46 pm
Forum: E-Bike Technical
Topic: Definitive Tests on the Heating and Cooling of Hub Motors
Replies: 1982
Views: 256012

Re: Definitive Tests on the Heating and Cooling of Hub Motors

Linukas is well known on the forum, one that I personally would trust with my money.
Iirc he used to build these by using mxus v1 and that is hard to come by, so he sorted out another source for the same motor. Basically a clone. I've not tested his water cooled motors, but he have sold those for a few years so I am sure others can go into details.

the mxus 3000 motor is capable of 10-12 kw peak power. But heats up rather fast compared to the larger QS v3 205.
With the water cooling you can rider harder for longer.

Have you heard of Neematic? Look up Neematic. Linukas is behind that.
by dkole
Dec 15, 2017 3:00 am
Forum: Items for Sale - New
Topic: Not completed NYX and parts.
Replies: 3
Views: 522

Not completed NYX and parts.

Nyx Frame
Cane Creek 110 Headsets
1 Speed Crankset

DNM USD-8 Front Fork

Rear shock DNM RCP2

Front wheels 20mm ( The front wheel has driven max 50 km. The tire and hose on it is 100% new. )
Maxxis Holy Roller tires
Downhill mtb inner hoses

mxus 3000 v2 T5
Maxxis Holy Roller tires
Downhill mtb inner hoses

Tektro dorado e-brakes front 230mm

Rear brakes XT Deore 230mm

Domino Twist-Grip Throttle with Microswitch

Adaptto Mini-E controller and display and BMS.

Handlebar

Salgel pind

I have paid 3683 EUR for all that on the list.

2000 EUR for everything on the list.

It is in Denmark now.
by molybdenum
Dec 07, 2017 11:59 pm
Forum: E-Bike General Discussion
Topic: Winter Projects ... ?
Replies: 22
Views: 1100

Re: Winter Projects ... ?

Last week, the ice fog hit in earnest and I awake every morning to a city wide skating rink. At the moment, my Kona hybrid with Q135 is my only ride, so I ordered a set of spiky tires from crc to get me through till I come up with a better solution.
Winter tires.jpg
Winter tires.jpg (209.61 KiB) Viewed 777 times
I would have ordered the premium Schwalbe Marathon ones but they are out of stock in my size. I might try my hands at making these in a 2.5" knobby but it would be unfeasible in a 35c tire and 2.5" won't fit nor suit the bike. btw @DrkAngel, I really like your "hedgehog" model.

This is a temporary fix of course, and I'm planning to put together a winter beast:
Suspension frame.
Mxus 3000 motor to power through deeper snow.
66V battery, removable for indoor storage and charging.
12 fet 50A controller.
Mudflaps.

Most of the stuff I have lying around unused right now, save the frame which I'll be hunting for in the coming weeks.
by markz
Dec 04, 2017 3:44 pm
Forum: E-Bike Non-hub Motor Drives
Topic: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?
Replies: 2865
Views: 218306

Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Current voltage is 52-61V range 15S is too fast (on my 4T mxus 3kw), and it eats wh/km on high throttle. Resoldering pack to 42V 10S will give me 50% more range and slow me down :twisted:
by lionelt
Nov 21, 2017 7:24 am
Forum: E-Bike General Discussion
Topic: First build - Vector light frame, mxus v3 and adaptto
Replies: 33
Views: 1945

Re: First build - Vector light frame, mxus v3 and adaptto

rumme wrote:
Oct 30, 2017 1:37 pm
My motor is rated for 3k but I often pump 5k- 5.5k thru it and it handles it fine , but mine has ferro fluid in it. I'm running 72 volts and a lyen controller in sensorless mode, along with tubeless moto tires. This is my 4th ebike and easily my favorite , best performing.
Hi how is the motor mxus 3000 in sensor less mode?
Coggins?

How do you setup lyen controller in this mode (sensorless) ?
Thx
by markz
Nov 15, 2017 4:13 pm
Forum: E-Bike Non-hub Motor Drives
Topic: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?
Replies: 2865
Views: 218306

Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

:!: Yup I took it off, and yup I am too lazy to take off the brackets and install bottom bracket and crankset. Just redid the battery pack, from 6Ah 72V to 12Ah 60V. Hopefully can obtain decent mileage :!:
Cyclone off the bike.jpg
Never did hook up both motor controllers to a single throttle. Would have been interesting. Main concern now is selling the C4K locally and fixing all the geared and dd motors I currently have. That is the mxus 3k, battery is hidden on the cabinet side. 60V hksuniwn cont, crystalyte 26" dh rim, and yes a 7 speed freewheel.
by Burnt75
Nov 13, 2017 12:12 pm
Forum: E-Bike General Discussion
Topic: Motor Wattage VS Battery Drain
Replies: 23
Views: 824

Re: Motor Wattage VS Battery Drain

markz wrote:
Burnt75 wrote:Thanks Dogman. Most helpful. Trying to decide between 3000 or 5000 motor. Would like mostly to ride about 25 to 35 mph with some fun run of about 45mph.
40kph-55kph-72kph.
http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.ht ... i&mass=110

Buy the MXUS 3000W V2 or V3 they are both excellent choices. Get the 3T and lace it into a 17" motorcycle rim, with Shinko 244 tire. Install suitable battery which will be 20S 72V(nominal) 84V(max) for your 45mph requirement. The smaller wheel diameter allows you to keep everything cooler. Take a look at the motor simulator, fits your needs perfectly.

This is with a 5% grade added, and you are still flying fast, over heat in 39 minutes, at 62kph which is like 38mph.
http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.ht ... 10&grade=5

Controller - If you want to save money, buy the ebay seller hksunwin he sells 72V 1000W on up are all the same, there is no difference between them.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=4 ... V&_sacat=0

Where to buy your battery and torque arms - http://www.ebikes.ca

Was looking at that motor. Qulbix 140 recommended a 19 inch wheel. Thanks for info.
by markz
Nov 12, 2017 8:24 pm
Forum: E-Bike General Discussion
Topic: Motor Wattage VS Battery Drain
Replies: 23
Views: 824

Re: Motor Wattage VS Battery Drain

Burnt75 wrote:Thanks Dogman. Most helpful. Trying to decide between 3000 or 5000 motor. Would like mostly to ride about 25 to 35 mph with some fun run of about 45mph.
40kph-55kph-72kph.
http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.ht ... i&mass=110

Buy the MXUS 3000W V2 or V3 they are both excellent choices. Get the 3T and lace it into a 17" motorcycle rim, with Shinko 244 tire. Install suitable battery which will be 20S 72V(nominal) 84V(max) for your 45mph requirement. The smaller wheel diameter allows you to keep everything cooler. Take a look at the motor simulator, fits your needs perfectly.

This is with a 5% grade added, and you are still flying fast, over heat in 39 minutes, at 62kph which is like 38mph.
http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.ht ... 10&grade=5

Controller - If you want to save money, buy the ebay seller hksunwin he sells 72V 1000W on up are all the same, there is no difference between them.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=4 ... V&_sacat=0

Where to buy your battery and torque arms - www.ebikes.ca
by markz
Nov 11, 2017 4:28 pm
Forum: E-Bike Non-hub Motor Drives
Topic: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?
Replies: 2865
Views: 218306

Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Somehow broke my half twist throttle ignition, sensor wire and ground shows 0V. Connected up spare throttle (with no dmm) and still nothing, checked spare throttle on hksunwin controller with mxus 3k, dmm shows everything normal, yet that throttle does not work, might be ignition but its connected. Only thing to do is hook up Cyclone again, test spare throttle with dmm and order a few spare throttles.
by mpmoller
Oct 30, 2017 5:03 pm
Forum: E-Bike General Discussion
Topic: First build - Vector light frame, mxus v3 and adaptto
Replies: 33
Views: 1945

Re: First build - Vector light frame, mxus v3 and adaptto

rumme wrote:
ebiker1.jpg

nice ebike...

Ive got about $3000 in mine ...using a 19" rear and 21" front rim.


My motor is rated for 3k but I often pump 5k- 5.5k thru it and it handles it fine , but mine has ferro fluid in it. I'm running 72 volts and a lyen controller in sensorless mode, along with tubeless moto tires. This is my 4th ebike and easily my favorite , best performing.
Damn what a bike! What is the topspeed? I just charged my bike for the first time this evening. First ride - 60km/h. Prette happy about that. It still need some finetuning and a backbreak. Temp is working fine and my motor didnt get hot at all. I got the hubsink on it. I also saw the police - without any lights on. frock. They didnt see me, luckily! :D
by Allex
Oct 30, 2017 3:18 pm
Forum: E-Bike Technical
Topic: Definitive Tests on the Heating and Cooling of Hub Motors
Replies: 1982
Views: 256012

Re: Definitive Tests on the Heating and Cooling of Hub Motor

Meanwhile in Russia, they take another way to cool down the motors.
It seems that ferrofluid is not enough for them so they actually use Active cooling and it is far more complex one.

The original creator "Chupa"
http://electrotransport.ru/ussr/index.p ... le;u=20897
Came up with the idea to use double-fans for servers, not any fans but a very specific type that has a very high pressure and sealed bearings for long life. At the air intake they install Airfilter.
Image

Image

This creation is for a MAC 9T motor. He runs a MAC setup and pumping it with over 6kW(8kW peak) with a kelly 72121 The motor never reach above 75C at 75km/h And I've seen about 80km/h in the below video, thats insane on a Mac(it does of course have modified gears)

Image

Image

Image



Image

Image

They use this with MXUS 3000 motors as well, and at 15kW peaks it never overheats.


And here is a run on with the mac ,you can see the speed on the right side of handlebar, temp is on the stem, showing a maximum of 70C at about 75km/h jump to 28:50
by rumme
Oct 30, 2017 1:37 pm
Forum: E-Bike General Discussion
Topic: First build - Vector light frame, mxus v3 and adaptto
Replies: 33
Views: 1945

Re: First build - Vector light frame, mxus v3 and adaptto

ebiker1.jpg

nice ebike...

Ive got about $3000 in mine ...using a 19" rear and 21" front rim.

My motor is rated for 3k but I often pump 5k- 5.5k thru it and it handles it fine , but mine has ferro fluid in it. I'm running 72 volts and a lyen controller in sensorless mode, along with tubeless moto tires. This is my 4th ebike and easily my favorite , best performing.
by SprocketLocket
Oct 26, 2017 7:04 am
Forum: E-Bike General Discussion
Topic: Frame candidate, Mongoose Terrex, hardtail 27.5 X 2.8
Replies: 26
Views: 4838

Re: Frame candidate, Mongoose Terrex, hardtail 27.5 X 2.8

Thanks for the great info, bullfrog.
I know and agree with pretty much everything you said. I get criticized for being too long-winded, but then when I simplify/shorten things, I then get "corrected", lol.

EM3EV does not carry any 26er rims between 32 and 80 mm. At least, they didn't when I bought. I'd be gleeful if I were wrong now, but I don't think I am. It's just a huge gap. Before Paul sold fatbike kits, and then while he was preparing, I encouraged him to choose 50mm as the fatbike rim, if not something in the 60-ish range, for fatbikes, not 80mm. Or, I said, if you carry 80, please carry something between 32 and 80. You can see that already, I was looking towards Plus bikes, which were so nascent they didn't even have an agreed-on name. I tried to tell him that the 50-ish/60-ish rims are much more versatile, and that there were "fat" tires less than 4-inches. "Mid-fat" was a term I'd heard, and I don't think I'd heard the term "Plus" used yet. People usually called them "fat" (there was less distinction than now). And indeed, fatbikes rims did indeed start in the 40mm range (44mm SnoCat was 1st commercially available fat rim), and even a Large Marge is in the 60s (65 to be exact). IMO, for most fatbikes, 80mm is not necessary, and indeed a hindrance, unless there is a fashion statement to be made, or people feel they need the back to look like the front, but I think of ebikers as more nonconformists.If you want to go 4.8 or 5 yeah you'll want 80mm, but those are fairly rare, and were almost unknown at the time, and most LBS's didn't even have a single vanilla fatbike in stock. Paul didn't go with my advice, obviously. It was not easy, because the 36-spoke was not used much on wide-tire bikes, so there was/is a very limited rim selection (hence the reason I put out the call in my last question in previous post). I'm not entirely sure of Paul's thought process, but I know he wanted a strong rim, prefers to buy from AlexRims due to a known quality/strength/price combination, and IIRC, AlexRims didn't make something in that (~50mm) size at the time--and I am still not sure if they do (their website sometimes makes deciphering inner widths difficult). They did make an 80mm Blizzerk in 36 spokes, and that's what he went with. Paul told me it was strong, and he was right. It would be easy for tubeless, as there are NO weight-saving cut-outs in mine. Full-fat wheelsets are ridiculously heavy, even before you add liners and/or sealant to prevent flats. I want some width, but the height, width, and rotational weight of 4-inch tires is more than I need or want. I don't know how pedalers ride these things without assistance. If I run my tires at the comfy low pressure pedalists claim they normally do, my controller gets pretty warm just casually riding around, flat, and my voltage goes down strikingly faster. If I pump up the pressure, it's basically room temperature doing the same, showing me how much more energy low-pressure riding takes, even further baffling me how these fatbike pedalers do it!

I just spent some time re-aquainting myself with AlexRims.com. It does look like AlexRims now makes 40-something mm rims, but ONLY in sizes taller than 26er--which really suxxx!! I couldn't find anything 40-ish for 26 (I'm hoping someone will contradict me). In 26, you can get 32, 34, and 35 (a lot of choices in a small range)--and then--nothing, until 70mm! So there is still this huge gap that I've been talking about. What, we need a hundred choices between 17 and 25 mm, yet we have to literally "double it" to go to the next step from 35? This is, honestly, why I asked for advice.

So, while I'm glad to see anything less than 80mm, I really don't get why AlexRims would do 70mm (so close). And not something more between 32 and 80, which was their gap when I bought (which was even worse, but not much worse). The average between 32 and 80 is 56, BTW, i'm just sayin'.

It's really maddening, b/c they make 40, 45, and 50 mm rims, but NONE for 26ers. Why can I get a 50mm rim in 27, 29, and even *24* inches, but not 26?! Why can I get a 40mm rim in 24-inch and even TWENTY inch--but not twenty-six?

Some of AlexRims naming baffles me. For instance, "Supra35"-- its specs say 559x30mm. So why not "Supra30"? Yet, DX32 is actually 32mm ID. XM35 is 35mm. You would think the Volar 3.0 would be for a 3.0-inch tire, right? No, it's 30mm. The SX44 is--you guessed it--20mm.

Update: hey now, what's this. Okay, more naming weirdness:
Specs on the "Blizzerk 80" are 559x73.
Spec on the "Blizzerk 70" is 559x64. Huh?
So, the "Blizzerk 70" (64 actual) is basically equivalent to a Large Marge (65).
Okay, so 35-65 is their (AlexRims') gap now. That's still a huge gap.

35 could do, though. You could run standard MTB, up to 3.0. I don't think I'd feel comfortable running my 3.5" Sunlite Speedster on crushed rock/unpaved roads though--- or am I being overly cautious?


For Newbies:
Regarding the rear spacing of the Terrex as Bullfrog noted.
A lot of newbies doing research may think of buying what they think is a 'standard' mountain bike (if there is such a thing), not realizing that the spacing may not be matching axle shoulders of the motor they got. As far as I'm concerned, WesNewell is the expert on getting motors to fit into frames they aren't sized-for, so I would point to his posts for newbies who may have gotten into a... jam (not jam nut). 148mm should be the new 'Boost' spacing... whether Terrex really fully follows the Boost standard, or is just 148mm, or whether that even matters, I don't know. How doable it would be for mechanically-wary people to fit it onto a 135mm motor, I don't know. Some cheap Plus bikes are using 155mm rear spacing; I really haven't heard of this elsewhere. Also funky bottom bracket sizes. You'd think it'd be cheaper to just stick with established tooling. I don't know what is up.


After doing some research, I am here on it:
These 2 videos pretty much de-convinced me to keep researching in this direction (right or wrong):
Huffy fortress
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_fcNixfU-c
Mongoose
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5S78kVm7RtY

And this one made me realize something and decide that I, personally, will probably never buy a bike with rim brakes.
I do hear that rim brakes actually perform better on the cheapest bikes than the ones with disk brakes--issues like the disk bending the fork to the left, causing self-steer; rotors out of true, difficulty adjusting, etc. However. The risk of overheating (or other malf's, like pad rubbing on tire) to total failure is much much lower.
Will a Walmart Huffy survive a Downhill Mountain Bike Trail? | Skills with Phil
Watch out, it's about an 8 on a 10-scale pucker factor:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkMnk_e ... KzvgUy0zGW
You may say, "He rode that bike in conditions it wasn't designed for". Yeah, but what are we doing with ebikes?! Being able to go 30 is pretty dommon outside of entry-level, torque-oriented, and socialism-marxism-fascism-leftism-authoritarianism-loving, lawfully-castrated eURO-bikes. The increased range and increase in sustainable speed gives us the ability to access places we couldn't before, including areas where we might have sustained downhill. The cheap rim-brake bikes are clearly not up to sustained downhill, especially on the original pads. The FIRST upgrade you should, no MUST do as an e-biker, in my non-expert but researched opinion, is get quality 3rd-party replacement pads. I hear it will also help on that horrible noise. This bike isn't alone on this. They all do it. Here is WesNewell's Fortress. Wes if you read this, respect. Just linking as an example of the sound, which, in fairness, you said in the video you were planning on getting better pads too. [Note: actual pics of the bike is at the very end.]
MXUS 3000 on Huffy Fortress 3.0 24s lipo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w97n4ig8254

A Mongoose Ledge dual suspension fares better in the first videos here. But only after a complete rebuild of the bike. This shows me that whoever is buying these bikes, should basically have full-fledged bike mechanic skills (and the patience required to do so), or be having sex with someone who does. The sad thing is, most people buying bikes like these, and who I think the bikes are really aimed at from a marketing standpoint, are at the opposite end of the spectrum.
Cheap Bikes & Torture Tests [playlist]
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... d5L7BsyLRF
This video series also caps my thoughts on entry-level "MTBs": IF you fully tune/re-tune them/maintain them, and IF you keep your riding LIGHT DUTY, AND with a little luck, you'll probably be okay. One thing I don't think anyone will dispute me on, is that (aside from the frame itself), if you test the limits, the components (including critical components) are much easier to damage or break completely, than a higher-quality bike. Basically, the threshold is crossed sooner. And it will almost certainly take more maintenance along the way.

One of the most interesting videos is of bike tires being completely filled with WATER, and ridden, to see how much heavy wheels really affect performance.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vq7fF0_ ... d5L7BsyLRF
A really interesting thing is, once he was going, things actually felt pretty normal. It was stopping, starting, and trying tricks that needed lots of effort. That seems to match my observation that my fatbike's battery goes down noticeably faster with more starts and stops, no matter how gently I try. I was still amazed at some of the tricks he could still do with water-filled tires.

The final video is '$149 WalMart Enduro bike', or something like that. I want to share my main pick-up there too. 2 trail-biking enthusiasts took a trip to remote & rough Pigsah Nat'l Forest bike trails, and for whatever reason, instead of bringing their good bikes, they bought $150 bikes at the local Wal-Mart. The INTERESTING thing is, they both bought the SAME model [Genesis brand, dual-susp, front disk, threadless steerer]. While they both made the trip together, the cameraman rode faster & harder, just going for it. The buddy tended to lag behind, not pushing the bike as hard. Interestingly, by the end of the trail, the cameraman's bike was completely ruined in multiple ways, while the lag-behind buddy's bike was actually still completely operable! Actually with nothing broken. Same bike model, same assembly line, same trail. This is really interesting, because it nearly pinpoints a fine line between "it's fine", and "total disaster", including very real safety risks (especially since there was no cellphone service, nor emergency vehicle access, on the park's trails). I realized that, by definition, all ebikers are pushing their bikes harder than normal riders. But some people are riding fairly gently, with medium power, on good pavement. WesNewell's suburban riding videos come to mind. But when you're often riding on farm roads, crushed rock, jarring dilapidated pavement, and the occasional bumpy field, like me, things change. I'm reminded of why I bought a front-suspension fatbike in the first place, not that I really knew what I was doing (and I knew that). And for trail riding, well, clearly, all bets are off.

While this is long, I don't post often either, so I put a lot into each post. I hate to say this, but this spate of research has made me appreciate B*kesD*rect bikes more. As much as I dislike the company's marketing strategies, the sales/support staff who are completely inaccessible by phone and randomly blow you off by email, I even dislike the website.. what I <i>can</i> say is, the bikes are solid compared to these entry-level big box bikes, and most importantly, generally not a danger to you as a person--where that certainly cannot be said for far too many of these big box bikes, especially how they're delivered. I'm surprised a class-action lawsuit hasn't arisen yet. Some of the QC stories of these Chinese bikes are just egregious. And it should remind us to always resist socialism/marxism; whatever's going on over there-you don't want it here.

In the '$149 WalMart Enduro bike' Pigsah Nat'l Forest video, this line pretty much summed it up, regarding one bike being completely destroyed, and the other completely fine:
"...it was clear that speed was the major disruptive force on these bikes".
Obviously, he means how hard it's ridden, and in his case, going faster meant more stresses on the bike. And the stresses weren't coming really from the speed itself, but the impacts; however the speed made it worse. It's kind of how comedian Ron White said, 'in a hurricane, it's not the wind that kills ya. It's the stuff IN the wind.' But--speed makes it worse. And speed is what "e" gives us. Range, too. We're going farther, which means more variety of terrain. More uh-ohs, "oh shit" moments, and hitting them harder. I remember I spent the (to me) crazy cash on my bike with bleeding edge features for perceived safety improvements. Buying an entry-level big box Plus bike just for the tires, and tubes, and lace-able rims is tempting, I'll admit--with a frame left over for maybe a 2nd build/to experiment with. I thought I'd probably upgrade the fork and handlebars. But after watching the video, I see now that most of the cheapos have scarily fragile handlebars and quill stemps/headsets--not more-confident threadless steerers. I didn't even know what any of this crap was when I started considering ebikes!

So now, yeah--if I actually thought I might do a conversion to an entry-level BBB [big box bike--there is a forum called bigboxbikes.com, actually], my minimum standard would be disk brakes and threadless headset... which will disqualify LOTS of models. Oh well, probably for the best. Originally, I thought: replacement handlebars are super-cheap (and they are). An ok budget suspension tube ain't much, either. And yeah, the bottom brackets are weak, but I won't pedal much. But then I see that the hubs are also fragile (and definitely need checking/adjusting before riding--beyond most rider's skill level). Okay, the rear 'hub' will actually be the hub motor. Still leaves the front hub (not as big of a deal IMO). Even if just left with the frame, you're still stuck with the overly-weak headset--yikes. Hm.

Also in fairness, in the 'Cheap Bikes & Torture Tests' playlist, the author reviews a Mongoose Dolomite, which broke the Big Box trend by using fairly standard, simple, and durable components--albeit with an inexplicably high-toothed front sprocket. What I drew from this was, a budget mfr can make a reliable, "dare I say, 'safe?'" [quote from the video] cheap bike if they want to, if they keep the gimmicks low, and focus on simplicity and reliability [ridiculous 100mm-rim fat tire gimmick aside].

And, interestingly, WesNewell owns 3 of the 5 bikes reviewed in the above videos. No disrespect, Wes! LOL. Wes was actually important to me and the start of my e-biking. Of all the prominent members here, he was the actually first ebiker I actually zoomed in on. It was due to his signature at the time. He had one bike, and included basically his whole recipe in his signature, which gave me my first real starting point. I really hadn't found full 'recipes' anywhere else. And, like most of us when we're first getting into this, and experiencing 'sticker shock', his 'recipe' was budget-oriented, so less of an initial turn-off, which may have kept me in the game. I strongly considered his recipe, but ultimately began modeling off Neptronix 'recipes', as I began to talk myself into spending 'beaucoup bucks'.

It was, however, almost immediately clear to me that, despite WesNewell's budget approach, he'd forgotten more about bikes than I ever knew. He had enough spare parts from upgrades to build a spare bike, and the knowhow to do it. Whereas, I didn't own a bike. At all, much less spare parts. Nevermind the knowhow. So I somewhat blindly spent more on a bike, somewhat compensating knowledge for money. Now that I know bikes better, the more I researched low-end mountain bikes, the more I began to appreciate mine. It really is a solid bike. And if I didn't have to have the fancy suspension, I could've gotten something just as good, maybe even better-suited for me, for less than half the price, or a few hundred dollars. But that's still 2-4 times more. And while I'll won't controversially say 2-4 times better, I will entertain maybe "2-4 time safer", or likelihood of something going dangerously wrong.

I know there will be newbies doing research, finding this thread doing websearches/all-night research, like I think we've all done on multiple occasions. This was long, but after having gone from zero to actually having some wherewithall, I try to give back with hopefully-accurate, well-reasoned POV's, after being helped so much by others who did the same before me.
by wesnewell
Oct 24, 2017 11:30 pm
Forum: E-Bike General Discussion
Topic: Frame candidate, Mongoose Terrex, hardtail 27.5 X 2.8
Replies: 26
Views: 4838

Re: Frame candidate, Mongoose Terrex, hardtail 27.5 X 2.8

I know nothing about the Terrex other than what's on the ad. My choice was the Huffy Fortress 3.0 with a standard width mxus 3000 motor. Info on that bike is here;
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... s#p1182072
by Rix
Oct 16, 2017 10:38 am
Forum: E-Bike Photos & Video
Topic: Stealth FUTR owners builds and pics
Replies: 1964
Views: 68894

Re: Stealth FUTR owners builds and pics

Allex wrote:Yes, for 140 or more Amps it is recommended to use 14p. But now we are talking about a really heavy battery and a quite expensive one too.
Lilke icherouveim said, it is very personal, and something almost impossible to get it perfect with the first build, because you have no idea on how you will ride, feel and how you want your bike in the end.
For me, it was a downgrading path to get the best power/weight ratio. Like most beginners, I started with a big frame, heavy motor and a big battery, but I realised very soon that the riding I am doing, I am much better of with a lighter motor/frame and battery.
So having 20s14p, mxus 3000 and max-e I went to 18s6p midi-e and leaf 1500W motor, lightweight rims, lightweight tyres, double crown fork to single crown and so on. For me, this new bike is much more fun, again, with my kind of riding style.

Cricket, if you are in Sthlm, you should try it out.
This is so true. I have came to the same conclusions. What I have also found is about 7kw is the sweet spot for most ebikes that weighs less than 100 pounds with good suspension and can be pedaled. This is the direction my future builds will be going. We are still talking about electric bicycles and not electric motorcycles.